Front Window Motor Replacement

[BRD]

I am in the process of replacing my Front Driver's Window Motor (95 MTX), and after accessing the inside of the door and removing the 3 bolts that hold the motor, I'm now trying to determine if I should try prying it out (as seen in threads on this forum), or should I drill out the rivets.

I'm not keen on the idea of having to deal with the mechanism and glass, and fear that I would spend more time tracking down the correct bolts to replace the rivets with, so prying it out is where I'm leaning. How has everyone else's experiences been?

 

[sperold]

The motor will come out with the 3 screws removed. It is jammed in there pretty tight especially with the styrofoam block wedged in there. Try removing the styrofoam so that you can rock it to loosen it up. Putting it back in is the same amount of aggrieation, but it does work out.

If you are trying to speed up a slow glass movement situation, sometimes getting a lot of WD-40 in the rotary part will work, and keep you from opening it up.

You can use a motor from the passenger rear door, as well as the drivers front door, they are the same.

 

[BRD]

Thanks, greatly appreciated! I was able to pry on the track bracket, and then easily levered the motor out. The new one took a little more finagling to get it in, but it was easy too! Refitting the door panel was harder than replacing the motor!

Thanks for the tip on using a rear motor as well, I saw elsewhere on this forum that the opposite rear works on the front as well. I picked one up at AutoZone, in-stock for $65.

 

[NoSlo]

The driver's front and passenger rear are available new from Ford parts sites online for about $45. The others are discontinued. Just looked at them.

Harbor Freight sells a big riveter for $20 that comes with 10 of the 1/4" rivets. That's only if you need to work on the channels.

 

[tracy_s_1993_atx]

Which door panel clips did you use to re-install the panel? I need to open the passenger door as the window movement is very slow. I am thinking that the track needs to be cleaned and then new grease.

 

[NoSlo]

The door panel retainer pins are reusable if they aren't too stripped. They are actually better used, as you don't risk breaking the plastic of the door panel as much if again removing. You can just take one to the NAPA store and get a matching bag of replacement clips for the worst. The original part number for the push pins is Ford N802900-S, so you can just look at cross-reference to order them online.

The door track is likely better ungreased. It is a felt-like material. You can wash and wipe it out dry with a scrub brush, alcohol wipes, etc. The door has drain holes. Both my front windows have the in-door rear channel removed, doesn't seem to make much difference without it installed, whereas it can bind if crooked.

After motor service, the problem is more likely the scissor regulator being rusty at the pivots or gummed up where plastic slides in the lubricated rails. Glass removal (drill rivets and replace with bolts) is the first step to servicing the rail out of the car.

 

[BRD]

The driver's front and passenger rear are available new from Ford parts sites online for about $45. The others are discontinued. Just looked at them.

AutoZone has both:

Front Driver / Rear Passenger: Dorman Window Lift Motor 742-277

https://www.autozone.com/collision-...indow-lift-motor-742-277/54847_334666_0_78655

Front Passenger / Rear Driver: Dorman Window Lift Motor 742-276

https://www.autozone.com/collision-...indow-lift-motor-742-276/54846_334666_0_78918

 

[BRD]

Which door panel clips did you use to re-install the panel? I need to open the passenger door as the window movement is very slow. I am thinking that the track needs to be cleaned and then new grease.

I have an assortment of clips, but reused all that weren't missing already....

I didn't **** my track, it still had grease on it, and seemed to run smooth.