Front subframe bolt help.

[jmpSHO]

Anyone have any good ideas on removing a front subframe bolt that just keeps on spinning. I tried prying down on the subframe while using my impact gun but it just spins.

I know there is an access hole but it's awfull small to get in there to see what's going on. Has anyone ever cut there own access whole? I was thinking of cutting my own hole and welding up a piece when I am done. If I do get it out do the same nut/tabs that you use on the rear subframe work on the front as well?

 

[ViPER1313]

You will probably have to cut the bolt and then feed it out from the access hole. Then you can get a replacement nut / bolt. Cutting the subframe is a bad idea.

 

[sperold]

If your car was recalled for this problem early on, you will have an access hole in the firewall where it meets the floor.... and it is pretty big, maybe 4" diameter. Follow the frame to floor spotwelds on the floor and the hole should be dead center of these two rows of spot-welds.
Cut your own hole if you need to.
You will see a nut assembly that is tacked to a flatbare that is a continuation of your frame to floor hat shaped structural section. This nut breaks free of this flatbar and you get your spin issue.
You can buy this repair nut new but you can make your own as well, once you get the bolt out by holding what is left of the nut assembly.
You can even replace the whole flatbar if the rust has advanced past the nut break-away issue. So don't despair if it looks bad in there.
Soak everything well with rust preventer when you are finished the repair and soak everything around your subframe bushing contact point. Paint it up with a brush.
Good luck, and be glad it happened at your house, because garages take a long time to fix this problem and it becomes a ton of money.

 

[projectSHO89]

If your car was recalled for this problem early on, you will have an access hole in the firewall where it meets the floor.... and it is pretty big, maybe 4" diameter. Follow the frame to floor spotwelds on the floor and the hole should be dead center of these two rows of spot-welds.
Cut your own hole if you need to.
You will see a nut assembly that is tacked to a flatbare that is a continuation of your frame to floor hat shaped structural section. This nut breaks free of this flatbar and you get your spin issue.
You can buy this repair nut new but you can make your own as well, once you get the bolt out by holding what is left of the nut assembly.
You can even replace the whole flatbar if the rust has advanced past the nut break-away issue. So don't despair if it looks bad in there.
Soak everything well with rust preventer when you are finished the repair and soak everything around your subframe bushing contact point. Paint it up with a brush.
Good luck, and be glad it happened at your house, because garages take a long time to fix this problem and it becomes a ton of money.

Uh, no.


He has problems with the FRONT SF bolts. The recall concerned the REAR SF bolts.

 

[sperold]

My mistake.

 

[lowc]

just had to do the front left one (if standing in front of car)i cut the head of the bolt off and had enough room to pry it up into the inner fender area and pulled it out the hole behind the ac lines

 

[jmpSHO]

So I ended up cutting the head off the bolt and was able to get the rest out through the access hole. Anyone have a good suggestion on what and how to get a nut in there to tighten the bolt.

I have some new tabs/nuts that are supposed to be used on the rear bolts I was thinking of getting one in there just not sure how I am going to be able to hold it in place to tighten the bolt.

 

[shoon]

So I ended up cutting the head off the bolt and was able to get the rest out through the access hole. Anyone have a good suggestion on what and how to get a nut in there to tighten the bolt.

I have some new tabs/nuts that are supposed to be used on the rear bolts I was thinking of getting one in there just not sure how I am going to be able to hold it in place to tighten the bolt.

had the same issue. I lined the nut up as best as I could, jacked the subframe up enough to get the bolts started started (ensuring threads were past the nut) and then tightened the bolts with an impact gun; letting the weight of the subframe pull down on the nuts . They spun a little bit.. but with fresh new bolts, nuts, and some antisieze it shouldn't be an issue.