FRAM oil drain plug

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poissonverte

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Anyone use this on their car??? I was going to give it a go, but wanted thoughts on it.. seems to be a pretty good idea. Just wondered if all the oil will get out of that little hole it has.
 

CALL AAA

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I think I know what he's talking about. It's the plug with a little valve on it. You put a little tube on it, and open the valve, and the oil flows out of the tube. It should work fine, unless you have an SS y-pipe. (maybe other pipes) because the whole setup wouldn't fitwithout moving the y-pipe. If you haven't seen the SS y-pipe setup, there is so little room between the oil pan and the pipe from the rear cyl bank, that the Shop gives you a stubby little drain plug, just so you can get the plug out.
 

jthomas68

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It has a valve of sorts(like a tire valve).When the drain tube is screwed in far enough,it valve opens,allowing you to drain the oil thru the tube,instead of pulling the plug.My only concern would be how well do the valves hold up?With a plug,you know it`s sealed,with a valve,will it ever fail?
 

BenBrausen

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FRAM Says:

Added Protection Dust Cover - To keep the SureDRAIN valve free from road dirt and safe from undercarriage debris, the ultra-rugged SureDRAIN dust cover locks firmly into place until the next oil change. Like all SureDRAIN parts, this dust cover has been tested against leaks, corrosion, vibration and road damage.
But then again, would you put a FRAM oil filter in your SHO??... :p :confused:
 

Todds93SHO

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I just put one in this weekend, we'll see how it goes. My only concern thus far was that the bolt/plug that was in the pan was pretty long and must have had at least 10 threads into the pan. This valve/plug seemed a bit shorter and I"m guessing only 5 or so threads holding it in. I know that's plenty, it doens't alot of threads to hold something, Just an observation I'm making.
Plus these are universal by thread type so it's probably short for a reason to fit other cars.
 

shojuan

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The little screw on cap with an O-ring is a fail safe. I put one of these on the other day. I'm sure Fram tested the thing well because they are liable if the device fails. It's a consumer device sold at walmart for crying out loud. Even if they got the application listing wrong in their catalog and you installed the wrong unit as a result they'd be liable.

Rick
 

poissonverte

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Just wanted to add.. they do have different model numbers for different cars.. for the SHO you want the model SD2. The guy at the auto parts store didnt have a clue and i ended up with SD5 or something.. have to return it still.. so that might be the reason you have so much thread length into the crank case.
 

shojuan

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SD2?! Dang, I put an SD4 in mine! Just kidding. Yeah, SD2 is the one you want and tighten it down 25 ft-lb. Another tip: Take the plug out of the package and screw the cap on it to make sure the cap screws on nice and smooth. I put these on my Dad's truck and my mom's car and thought I'd like one for *my* truck. It turns out that the threads binded a little on my truck one, so it doesn't unscrew so smoothly by hand. On the SHO this might mean some troubles if you try to change the oil without raising the car. When you only got a little space to wiggle your hand in there you want that cap screwing on and off nice and smooth.

Rick
 

SHOnOFF

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poissonverte:
Anyone use this on their car??? I was going to give it a go, but wanted thoughts on it.. seems to be a pretty good idea. Just wondered if all the oil will get out of that little hole it has.
I just put an SD2 on my 94 ATX a few weeks ago. We'll see how it goes. So far so good. Of course, with me having 2 SHOs now and not driving either of them 12,000 miles a year (especially the ATX cuz the 5-speed is so fun!)...it might be another 4-5 months before I have to change the oil in the ATX again. (I think I went about 4 1/2 months this past cycle because I bought the MTX in March and didn't drive the ATX that much afterwards due to the "MTX Bug" that bit me. :D )
 

SHODUDE

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Todds93SHO:
I just put one in this weekend, we'll see how it goes. My only concern thus far was that the bolt/plug that was in the pan was pretty long and must have had at least 10 threads into the pan. This valve/plug seemed a bit shorter and I"m guessing only 5 or so threads holding it in. I know that's plenty, it doens't alot of threads to hold something, Just an observation I'm making.
Plus these are universal by thread type so it's probably short for a reason to fit other cars.
The reason for the amount of threads on the stock plug is for ensuring that Jiffy **** doesn't strip out the aluminum oil pan when they overtighten the plug.
 

Xs SHO 1

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i did an oil change on my sho and ranger these past two weekends and i did not like the outcome. i had my sho on ramps and the draining of the oil w/the hose was very slow. same with the ranger. i ended up replacing the fram drain bolt with the stock oil pan bolt. after i clean the items, i will return them. :rolleyes:
 

shojuan

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xssho1:
i did an oil change on my sho and ranger these past two weekends and i did not like the outcome. i had my sho on ramps and the draining of the oil w/the hose was very slow. same with the ranger. i ended up replacing the fram drain bolt with the stock oil pan bolt. after i clean the items, i will return them. :rolleyes:
That's strange. I've had no such problems, the oil pours right out. Oh well, guess you get what you pay for.

I've heard good things about this drain valve http://www.fumotovalve.com/
The Cadillac of quick drain valves. At twice the price of the Fram.

Rick
 

SHOZ123

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I've heard good things about this drain valve http://www.fumotovalve.com/
I have one of them on my John Deere as OEM.

What I don't like about anything that is threaded into the oil drain hole is it will not allow the sludge, which settles on the bottom, to drain out. All the heavy junk will sit on the bottom and build up.
 

srfdude

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SHOZ123:
What I don't like about anything that is threaded into the oil drain hole is it will not allow the sludge, which settles on the bottom, to drain out. All the heavy junk will sit on the bottom and build up.
Because of the location of the drain hole, up on the side (back) of the pan, the oil drains well when the car is up on ramps. This should allow all the stuff on the bottom of the pan to come out. You do change it while hot, right? When I pulled the pan for the first time off my 145K mi. engine, there was NO sludge/junk in the bottom of the pan. I bought one of those Fram units, but after seeing this other one, I think I'm going to try it instead.
 

SHOZ123

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Because of the location of the drain hole, up on the side (back) of the pan, the oil drains well when the car is up on ramps.
Yes I drain my oil when it is hot. My apologies as I was thinking of my '97 that has the drain plug on the side of the pan not the rear.
 

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