Ford dealer couldn't find a problem-selling my SHO

[lip]

As I posted before,my SHO ****** me off. Idle goes up and down in neutral and while in gear whole car jerks as **** that I am affraid of breaking my neck. This is happening only sometimes like let's say once a day. So I took it to the dealer for the diagnostics. They kept it for a day and said that they didn't find anything. As I was told it could be a many things, but I can't afford replacing every part so I'll probably get rid of my SHO. I so don't want to, but what can I do?



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89' Black
117k
K&N Filter
Coneless
3" exhaust tips
TURBO II mufflers
Bosh Platinum +4 Spark Plugs
Filled up body lettering
SHO windshield decal
Krypton SHOoff headlight bulbs
RAZO shift ****
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Petr Lipus
[email protected]

 

[noSHO]

I'll give you $500 for it. Have you checked the CID and CKP (cam sensor and crank sensor, respectively)??

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-Dave
green/black 92

 

[LOUDSHO92]

I have heard that some people have had problems with the Bosh plugs. Also though taking it to a Ford delearship? Yeah like they know much. They cant find the safing sensor on my car. My airbag light keeps going off and I told them what the light code was but well they can only take care of it if its going off. So take it to a couple of other places. NoSHO might be right though.

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92 White SHO
HiRevs Competion Clutch
SHOSHOP Engine Mounts
Koni Shocks
StrutTower Braces
UD Pullies
Awesome Sound System

 

[luigisho]

lip, what have you done so far? These engines are very durable(sdpatt's got near 250k miles on his) and most problems are sensor related. Crank and cam sensors are the first things to look at after plugs and wires. I know it can be frustrating most of us have been there. Alot of these things can be done by you if you're patient and willing to gewt your hands dirty.
In my experience most dealerships go through the motions and send you on your way without helping very much except for lightening your wallet. They would prefer you sold your car and went on your way than to actually take an interest in getting to the bottom of the matter. They hate these cars because they require more time,effort and thinking to fix.

[This message has been edited by luigisho (edited 02-09-2002).]

 

[Mr.Xc]

To lip: Sounds like the same problem I'm having.(ck out the posts under"stalling around 2-3k rpm") I know what happens at the dealership as you will read in my posts, Don't sell the SHO just yet, you have entered a place here of endless "good guys" that want to help you. We should keep in touch and see who finds a fix for this problem.

 

[luigisho]

I checked the other post with your name attached about your sho being slow. Is the jerking new? I'm sure someone already addressed swapping the plugs for oem. Aftermarkets foul out very soon. I can't believe there were no codes thrown when the car was jerking. To get reasnoable prices on dealer parts go to fordpartsnetwork and have Torrie send you up to date quotes for parts. He is very responsive and his oem part prices are the best I've seen. New plugs $3.99. You would want to get more than plugs to justify shipping. With this many miles you will eventually have to put a few dollars into this car to make sure it runs well. Any idea when the timing belt was done last? This can wait as it does not cause the car to **** around but eventually you'll have to address it. Reply with anything you've had done in response to your problems.

 

[SHOMEUP]

Hey lip i just experienced that sam eproblem the other day- i noticed i had the climate control on AUTO and at 70 degrees and i think it had aproblem turning the compressor on due to that ym ac dont work also and when it tried to turn it on it bounce my idle all over and almost stalled acouple times- so i turned it off and it stopped it went away and never did it again- in ur case it could be the plugs too cuz i had the sam eplugs and within 2k miles they were hesitating and wouldnt produce nepower but no bouncing idle so which leads to me something else for u- liek everyone said could be a sensor i would first turn ur ac off and make sure its not on and replace the plugs with motorcraft ones and change the camshaft sensor which its only a 50 bux part and its easy and will no doubt help starting better too so really ur not losing money cuz the plugs will be better and the cam sensor will help it start better- so go from there and see what happens...hope this helps

 

[lip]

Ok like I said car jerks only sometimes. My friend is a mechanic and has this computer, but could't find anything neither. He said that he would get codes only while it does that.
Car was jerking before but it wasn't this often and this hard.Changed plugs+wires but still the same thing. Also I am experiencing serious loss of power. How do I check cam and crank sensors?
Will check my timing belt today.

Thanx!

 

[luigisho]

My advise to any owner of these cars is to get the factory manual which sells on ebay frequently. Also get a haynes or chiltons book for general info. The cam sensor is on the back of the engine passenger side just below the intake manifold. This is much easier to replace than the crank sensor. The tps is cheap too so I'd switch that as well. It's kinda circular but not entirely. See if you can get a gasket to go with it as they leak oil sometimes. The progressive jerking is cam or crank sensor. If it's crank replace all the crap down there and get it over with if financially feasable. If not then at least do the h2o pump as these leaking is a common cause of that sensor failure. Also try to clean the IAC. It's in the shotimes faq and very easy.

 

[buechine]

Originally posted by lip:
Ok like I said car jerks only sometimes. My friend is a mechanic and has this computer, but could't find anything neither. He said that he would get codes only while it does that.
Car was jerking before but it wasn't this often and this hard.Changed plugs+wires but still the same thing. Also I am experiencing serious loss of power. How do I check cam and crank sensors?
Will check my timing belt today.

Thanx!

I had a similar bucking problem with my 89 I did the KOEO test which keeps a memory of codes which have been recently thrown. Even if the service engine soon light does not come on. If the car is not stalling just bucking I would bet the farm on the CID sensor or Cam senor. It can be taken off in about 30 minutes and replaced(if you have small hands probably 5 minutes). Only two 5.5 mm bolts hold it in place. check the KOER and KOEO tests that you can do yourself at www.shotimes.com under care and feeding of the sho. This way you can jump the wires and count flashing lights tell you what to look for. Not paying $60 for some one to hook a machine up that counts for you. It's really easy.

 

[kmetros]

It could be a lot of things. One of the more obscure problems is this...there are four support brackets for the intake assembly. The one on the rear passenger side is different from the other three in that there is a bolt with a nut built into it with more threading on the other side of the fixed bolt. The first nut secures the intake brace and the second set of threading has a ground strap that goes over it with a nut securing the strap. The end of that bolt sticks out far enough that it rubs the main wiring harness that's coming from the EEC-IV (it runs along the firewall). It rubs through the wrapping and can rub through the insulation on wires, causing big problems when the engine moves from having a load put on it and the bolt hitting the wire.

I've heard about it more than once and seen it first hand - the insulation wasn't warn from the wire, but it was definitely through the outer wrap and wearing the insulation off of a wire.

Kurt www.kurtmetros.com

 

[billh]

Don't give up on the car just because some idiot at the Ford store can't find the problem. I can tell you a horror story about a Ford tech that spent over $1000.00 chasing a problem, (Car surged and wouldn't run at WOT) throwing parts at a car including a new computer. He gave me back the car, they said "It's not fixed, I can't fix it and we don't want to see it again" I was feeling just about the way you are now when I discovered the problem was insulation blocking the intake air cleaner passage. Fixed with my swiss army knife. That Ford store NEVER touched anything of mine again. My suggestion, find someone who can trouble shoot your problem WITHOUT throwing parts at your car.
Good Luck

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94 ATX, Red. LPM
65 GT-350 Shelby
Former NHRA Super Stock National Record Holder (With a Ford no less!)

 

[lip]

Just put new cam sensor in we'll see tommorow if it fixed that.

 

[luigisho]

Don't forget to clear the computer.

 

[lip]

Today I was driving without any problems. If it'll be allright tommorow I'll belive that it's fixed and if it is fixed I guess I keep my SHO! Thanks a lot guys!!!

 

[lip]

Today my car started doing that again so it wasn't cam sensor. What does the CID sensor and where is located?

 

[jimtash]

If you are not getting codes then it is not a sensor so don't waste your time there. Try changing plugs and wires and see what that does. Also have someone look at the fuel pressure. You might want to reset the idle and/or clean the IAC valve. Also look for vacuum leaks. Make sure all of the hose and electrical connections are tight. Also look inside the spark plug wells for oil. The valve covers are know to leak oil and when there is a sufficient build-up in the wells a nasty misfire will occur.

 

[ACV1081]

Not being a smartass but the bosch platinum fours aren't making your life any easier... they can't be gapped correct? Also the factory motorcraft ones are the only ones recommended by competent SHO owners. I believe those plugs might even be SHO specific. I doubt plugs would give you these problems but it might not help either. Good luck!

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The fleet:

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~Adam Varney~ mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
1993 RED ATX(3 replacements) W/shiftkit, 135,000 miles(Fresh 60/100K THANKS SDPATT!), 17" Konig Reigns, 245/45/17 Goodyear F1 Gs(Summer), 225/55/16 Blizzaks WS-15's on slicers for winter duty, 26mm ASB w/poly bushings, Tweaked stock airbox with K&N panel filter, D4U1 computer, blazertech fogs, & performance friction brake pads, SHOSHOP Stut tower braces(front & rear). GTECH times 0-60 in 6.92 1/4 15.3 @ 98.4.
Not yet installed: poly bushings... Upcoming: Well you could just say I am on hold since I bought a gen.1 now.
New to the lineup: 1991 White MTX- 122,000 miles, recent 60K & clutch, CINCYSHO cowl hood, K&N filter, rod shifter, dynomax catback, SHOSHOP y-pipe, & white slicers w/ 225/50R16 Dunlop SP Sport 8000 tires(Being sold & replaced . Too bad she'll be sitting till spring cause I'm not driving it in the salt & sand. Website with pics from previous owner: http://www.homestead.com/SHOIOWA/SHO_Spring_2001.html

 

[Shoman594]

Originally posted by noSHO:
I'll give you $500 for it. Have you checked the CID and CKP (cam sensor and crank sensor, respectively)??

sheesh


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Ryan

SHOcago Enthusiasts Club
SHOcago Web site
http://www.SHOcago.com
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http://www.SHOforum.com/SHOcago
'94 Opal Frost MTX "Shoman 4"
'91+ Deep Jewel Green Build Date 6/91 with rod shifter
AIM "Shoman594"
To Join SHOCAGO Enthusiast Club, Please Email me or Neno
E-Mail mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A> mailto[email protected][email protected]</A>

 

[noSHO]

Ryan- What?? Hey he said he was selling it

.

Lip- The CID and cam sensor are the same thing. CID= Cylinder IDentification, that is your cam sensor. The crank position sensor is a tough one to replace, it connects at the top of the engine near the crossover tube, and runs all the way down behind the timing covers to the crank. If you haven't replaced this, try it. I'd dump those bosch plugs for the OEM motorcraft. Have you checked the plug wells for oil or water?? How is the ground on your DIS??