FML... This keeps getting better and better. (Blown P/S pump)

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NEp8ntballer

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I was taking the rear bolt off. I have pinched nerves in my shoulders that cause my arms/hands to go completely numb after holding them above my head for longer than 10 seconds. Well, I was in a bad mood and I was fighting my numbness trying to break the bolt over. The socket slipped off the bolt and my finger got smashed between the edge of the subframe and the 1/2 ratchet.

Luckily, since my arms/hands were completely numb then this happened, I didn't notice what I had done at first. It wasnt until blood started dripping on my face that I saw what had happened. :lol:

shoulda gone at the rear bolt from the top. I ended up smashing my finger into the intake though.
 

LJRuddy

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I've found that taking the intake off decreases the time to do anything with the p/s pump or pressure line. Once the intake is off, you can reach the pressure line easy as well as the back bolts for the pump.

I removed the end tank and the cam sensor. I left the battery installed as well. I had no problems doing it this way. I honestly do not see how removing the entire intake would have helped the project as I never even looked further right than the cam sensor. Different strokes for different folks I suppose.

shoulda gone at the rear bolt from the top. I ended up smashing my finger into the intake though.

I tried this at first. I then realized it was futile. A 3/8 ratchet with a 12 inch extension and a short 12mm socket was perfect. Run the extension between the header and the heat shielding paper crap and you dont even need to use a knuckle/elbow/u-joint attachment. In fact, if your hands are small enough (like me), once you crack the rear bolt loose, you can get your hand up over the rear motor mount and unscrew it without using any tools.

...See scrawny people are good for more than just wiping muscular people's *****. :nut:
 

SHO_DOODmorrris

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man your sho is treating you like crap lately... im not gonna say anyhting about mine or im gonna get screwed. Good luck with the repairs!
 

LJRuddy

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man your sho is treating you like crap lately... im not gonna say anyhting about mine or im gonna get screwed. Good luck with the repairs!

That what I get for purchasing a lemon buy-back. I should have never discovered that sticker on the door.
 

itwonder

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You can access the rear bolt from underneath with relative ease by using a long extension and a swivel socket. The extension runs all the way across the back of the engine and the ratchet is positioned in the open area near where the engine and transmission meet.
 

LJRuddy

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You can access the rear bolt from underneath with relative ease by using a long extension and a swivel socket. The extension runs all the way across the back of the engine and the ratchet is positioned in the open area near where the engine and transmission meet.

I used your pictures as a guide during this fix. However, I found that a swivel attachment is not necessary. :wave:
 

NEp8ntballer

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I removed the end tank and the cam sensor. I left the battery installed as well. I had no problems doing it this way. I honestly do not see how removing the entire intake would have helped the project as I never even looked further right than the cam sensor. Different strokes for different folks I suppose.
I didn't pull my intake either

I tried this at first. I then realized it was futile. A 3/8 ratchet with a 12 inch extension and a short 12mm socket was perfect. Run the extension between the header and the heat shielding paper crap and you dont even need to use a knuckle/elbow/u-joint attachment. In fact, if your hands are small enough (like me), once you crack the rear bolt loose, you can get your hand up over the rear motor mount and unscrew it without using any tools.

...See scrawny people are good for more than just wiping muscular people's *****. :nut:

really? I had no trouble getting my rear bolt out from the top. it may have helped that I didn't have a hood on it at the time...
 

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