flickering oil light after sitting for 8 months or so.

[tommyturbo]

Hi, I have a 95 ATX 173K, runs great, but I moved this year from socal to washington state. I have been driving my other cars, and have been storing this and a couple others in a friends lot. It was a long process to get moved.

Car sat for about 8 months. It started right up, and other than feeling like it has 4 flat spots it ran fine driving home about 30 minutes or so on fwy. When I came to a stop the oil light was flickering.

Never had this happen before, even after hard driving in 100+ degree socal weather. it was 40 ish out today here. I suspect it is just the sensor leaking, but want opinions. I suspect the long term sitting didn't make it happy.

I always have disconnect the dis and cranked over engine until oil light goes out when the cars have sat for long periods, today was no exception. Also before I moved occasionally got smell of oil burning on exhaust and suspect the crank seal was leaking, but can this sensor if leaking cause that?

Also I have done this sensor on my 90 MTX, and wondered how best way is on the ATX. Majority of tools are still in storage.

 

[zoomlater]

Welcome to Washington state. How much oil showed up on the dip stick

 

[tommyturbo]

It was full, checked before even starting car.

 

[tommyturbo]

I did the sender on my 90 MTX when I got it, and found it very easy to do...but have heard on a ATX is very difficult. I have been searching but not finding any tips on doing this on the ATX.

 

[zoomlater]

Maybe check the wire connection to the sensor, were the rod bearings done already?

 

[tommyturbo]

no bearing work has ever been done.

 

[sperold]

There is a socket tool that grabs the sender unit so that it backs out more easily.
The company name is something like Lysle and most parts stores carry it.
I removed mine because it was leaking oil, so maybe the smell is related.

 

[luigisho]

I think the sensor is a good place to start. At 175 I would not dismiss bearings. Even though ATX is easier on them, it's not outside the possible. I have a hard time remembering when the last time I saw an oil pump replacement post for these old dogs. I'm sure there is a few but way less than I would expect.

 

[yaycandy]

Did you try smacking the gauge cluster? Gotta show them light bulbs who the alpha is.

 

[tommyturbo]

I don't think that is the issue, lol. However it does work for the occasional connection issue my daytona shelby z has in the cluster. What would really help is advice for how to get this out done on an atx. top or bottom access? I've done it on my MTX, and felt it was not hard.

 

[zoomlater]

It must be near the bottom of the oil pan, similar to the MTX. I've never noticed it before on my ATX, so it must be off on the side somewhere.

 

[zoomlater]

This is from an engine swap page on wikisho, looks like it is on the front side of the oil pan
http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/Engine_Swaps?


3.2 with 3.0 alt/ac/front motor mount bracket bolted on:

 

[tommyturbo]

Yes the oil level low sensor is on pan, this is the pressure switch on back side of engine that turns the oil pressure light on or off. The MXT has lots of room to work from below and get to it, but the ATX case is much larger and sits right against the back side of the engine. I do however really appreciate your help.

 

[zoomlater]

Yes the oil level low sensor is on pan, this is the pressure switch on back side of engine that turns the oil pressure light on or off. The MXT has lots of room to work from below and get to it, but the ATX case is much larger and sits right against the back side of the engine. I do however really appreciate your help.

Sorry,my bad. Did you see this thread, NoSlo has a write up, the second to the last post, he has a 93 ATX

Oil Pressure Sensor Unit | SHO Forum

 

[BaySHO Performance]

On an ATX, I remove the intake and get at the oil pressure sender from up top. The whole engine sits 2" further forward than the MTX to make room for the transmission, giving more room.

 

[tommyturbo]

great, thanks for the advice!

 

[tommyturbo]

Ok, was a nice day today so went ahead and swapped out the switch. Took manifold off and laid on engine and felt my way around the back side of the engine. Was mostly done by feel, but was not as bad as expected. Letting it run now to get hot and see what happens.

 

[zoomlater]

Ok, was a nice day today so went ahead and swapped out the switch. Took manifold off and laid on engine and felt my way around the back side of the engine. Was mostly done by feel, but was not as bad as expected. Letting it run now to get hot and see what happens.

Did you need the special oil pressure socket switch or were you able to do it with a 26mm socket. I think I have the same issue and I am pretty sure its never been changed before

 

[tommyturbo]

I used a 26mm socket. I removed the intake, laid a towel over engine, put a cushion on top of that, and laid across the engine head towards trans side, and felt my way around with my left hand until I was able to feel it. I then did it all by feel basically. I didn't need to remove the wiring harness on back side of engine as I read someplace someone needed to, and was just careful not to disrupt the harness to the sensor or the speed sensor which I felt runs down in that area near the pressure switch. It got rid of the burned oil smell I was having, and the oil light has been normal now.

 

[NoSlo]

Did you need the special oil pressure socket switch or were you able to do it with a 26mm socket. I think I have the same issue and I am pretty sure its never been changed before

You have a flickering oil pressure light at idle? That's not something you should first blame on the sensor.

First do a 5W-30 Valvoline Full Synthetic High Mileage with MaxLife oil change, including a new Motorcraft FL400S filter. Correct viscosity, correct level, and clean filter ensure correct pressure.

Still idle oil light sometimes coming on, even moreso when hot? More than one second of oil light at startup? Then you should start suspecting bearing clearances if you've never done rod bearings. Also you have oil pan pickup tube (clogged screen?), leaking pickup tube gasket, and an oil pump on the front of the crankshaft as possibilities.

You can replace the sensor just to be sure it's not erroneous, but it is more likely that it malfunctions and doesn't illuminate.