munkee
Too busy...
For those who followed and advised on my earlier posts, here is a list of what was bad on my 90 mtx.
Bad alternator
Bad starter (causing the binding on long cranks?)
Bad baro sensor
Burned valve in #6 cylinder
Bad TC tensioner in replacement head
Bad ECU
Bad cat for rear bank (will replace next weekend)
Bad wire splice in cps ground wire (went unnoticed for a while)
Bad fuel pump
Broken spark plugs (I think I was breaking them trying to get my plug socket back off when I was replacing them. I broke one splitfire and one motorcraft, both in the #4 head. I have since removed the rubber from the socket.
)
I also replaced the rod bearings, which weren't in terrible shape but a few were showing copper.
I wish I would have known that Mr. Murphy was a passenger when I bought this car. Sheesh. Anyway, it runs pretty good now. Diagnosing the problem was definitely difficult due to so many parts being bad. It was running pretty good all last week save for the cel for the pump and the chattering noise. I replaced the tensioner in about an hour on Sunday and took it for a spin. At first there wasn't any noise but after about 5 minutes it started up again, only not as loud; more like a knocking or tapping then the chain noise was. Then I changed the fuel pump and didn't notice any noise for about two days. (On a side note, I can't hear the walbro pump when I turn the key on. Are the old pumps all noisy or just the five taurii I have driven?) Then, right after I gassed up here in town, the tapping noise is back. Listening with a "stethescope" I can hear it everywhere except the oil pan. It isn't always constant though and it pretty much comes and goes as it pleases, as in it isn't reliant on a certain driving condition or rpm to set it off. Sometimes it will stop after a few seconds of idle, sometimes it will stop if you shut the car off and restart it, and sometimes it has to sit a while before it goes away. The tensioner I removed couldn't be compressed when it was in the head. After I removed it it loosened up and now compresses fully and easily. shrug I had a lot of sludge in the oil from the bad valve that I cleaned out of the pan when I changed the rod bearings. Could some of the passages be clogged and causing the tensioner to not work correctly? I didn't replace the chain with the tensioner, not sure if that could make a difference? What kind of noise goes along with bad gas and will it stay constant with the rpms? I would like to get this problem resolved once and for all so I can start finishing up the the body trim and interior work. Overall I am a lot happier though. It runs great and power is improved. Sounds good too. I had some rasp before after installing summit turbo's and it is gone now and it sounds awesome!
Bad alternator
Bad starter (causing the binding on long cranks?)
Bad baro sensor
Burned valve in #6 cylinder
Bad TC tensioner in replacement head
Bad ECU
Bad cat for rear bank (will replace next weekend)
Bad wire splice in cps ground wire (went unnoticed for a while)
Bad fuel pump
Broken spark plugs (I think I was breaking them trying to get my plug socket back off when I was replacing them. I broke one splitfire and one motorcraft, both in the #4 head. I have since removed the rubber from the socket.
)I also replaced the rod bearings, which weren't in terrible shape but a few were showing copper.
I wish I would have known that Mr. Murphy was a passenger when I bought this car. Sheesh. Anyway, it runs pretty good now. Diagnosing the problem was definitely difficult due to so many parts being bad. It was running pretty good all last week save for the cel for the pump and the chattering noise. I replaced the tensioner in about an hour on Sunday and took it for a spin. At first there wasn't any noise but after about 5 minutes it started up again, only not as loud; more like a knocking or tapping then the chain noise was. Then I changed the fuel pump and didn't notice any noise for about two days. (On a side note, I can't hear the walbro pump when I turn the key on. Are the old pumps all noisy or just the five taurii I have driven?) Then, right after I gassed up here in town, the tapping noise is back. Listening with a "stethescope" I can hear it everywhere except the oil pan. It isn't always constant though and it pretty much comes and goes as it pleases, as in it isn't reliant on a certain driving condition or rpm to set it off. Sometimes it will stop after a few seconds of idle, sometimes it will stop if you shut the car off and restart it, and sometimes it has to sit a while before it goes away. The tensioner I removed couldn't be compressed when it was in the head. After I removed it it loosened up and now compresses fully and easily. shrug I had a lot of sludge in the oil from the bad valve that I cleaned out of the pan when I changed the rod bearings. Could some of the passages be clogged and causing the tensioner to not work correctly? I didn't replace the chain with the tensioner, not sure if that could make a difference? What kind of noise goes along with bad gas and will it stay constant with the rpms? I would like to get this problem resolved once and for all so I can start finishing up the the body trim and interior work. Overall I am a lot happier though. It runs great and power is improved. Sounds good too. I had some rasp before after installing summit turbo's and it is gone now and it sounds awesome!
