Figured out my stalling problem. ALL FINISHED!!WOOOT!!!!!!!!!!

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deercrusher

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So after taking everything back apart and inspecting the crank sensor and the surrounding area I figured out that my problem was actually two problems. First I installed the crank sensor like a ***** and gapped it from the top - which allowed the bottom part of the sensor (with the magnet) to go right up against the shutter wheel. So needless to say after driving it for a short while the crank sensor ended up being damaged and not functioning properly. To add to the problems, the brand new crank seal I installed is weeping oil. I bought a brand new crank sensor from Pep Boys which was 63 dollars - not terrible. Now I'm awaiting a new crank seal to be able to finish the job. So it's been a 85 dollar lesson and not to mention the time involved. LESSON LEARNED!
 
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deercrusher

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nope didn't figure it out after all. I put the new sensor on and gapped it with a feeler gauge this time making sure to hold the sensor down against the feeler gauge and the shutter wheel so that the bottom part of the sensor (with the magnet) wouldn't touch the bottom of the wheel. Well I test ran it and the tach is jumping all over the place. I don't know what to do I'm hoping the sensor is bad new out of the box. Maybe my exchange part will work. if not the only thing I can think of to do next is the computer.
 

d2freak82

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I had the problem with the tach jumping, I ran new ground to the back of the head, and problem solved
 

shonuffmine

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^^^^^^^^^ this and make sure the DIS mod is grounded and the return chamber where the DIS is mounted to has the 2 bolts installed so that is properly grounded!
 

Denny

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Tach jumping around sounds like a ground isn't right

How many grounds are there to check? The one on the back of the intake manifold? The DIS grounded to the crossover tube? The two bolts for the crossover tube that bolt into the braces that then each have two bolts into the front and rear pipes of the manifold? Anything else to check?

Mine was jumping around yesterday before stalling out twice. After the first stall, within minutes I could restart. The second time, I couldn't. Checked the car out hours later and it started up no problem.
 

SeanMc

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One of the many symptoms when my alternator was on the way out, the tach would bounce, and then act perfectly fine before the car would stall. Not having enough voltage can produce odd, and seemingly unrelated problems.
 

deercrusher

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Here's how goes: Crank seal replaced, crank sensor replaced. The crank sensor was indeed bad new out of the box. Replaced with another and it ran much better. However the tach didn't read right. I checked ALL grounds and they were good. Figured out the the new crank sensor install was good but my tach is just messed up probably from the crank sensor being bad and ******* the needle multiple times stripped the gear on the back or something. But the car runs amazing with no leaks or check engine light. I drove it all day and not a single problem. Have a couple of other little things to fix but they will be done as I have time - such as the air bag light, the abs light, the o/d switch etc.... But as for the motor it's done and no more problems. Thanks for your replies and your help everyone - it is truly appreciated.
 

DJSHO91

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Got the SHO back from the mechanic. New HPS front pads bite strong and response is better since replacing the in-line fuel filter. The only problem was the cargo coil springs(rears) wouldn't fit. Just my luck.
 

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