Fan Problem?

[URLACHER54]

does anyone know how to check if the radiator fans on a 3.2 atx are working properly. i am having cooling issues, and i have checked almost everything. my fan ( the larger one ) is coming on but im not sure if its blowing hard enough,the other fan only comes on with the heat or a/c on. the temp gauge is fine with both fans on but when i turn off the heat, defrost, a/c, etc. the temp creaps back up. the only thing left to check is the fans and the eec i have checked and replaced everything else. also will a fan motor from a 3.0 fit the 3.2?

 

[LOUDSHO92]

It might be your IIRC as that is what controls teh fans. Also you could have a bad temp senso if both fans are working.

I know the 3.0 has a different fan setup being that it has only 1 fan. I dont know if the motor will fit.

 

[SHOZ123]

Unless the car is truelly overheating this all sound normal to me. What excatly is the temperature in degrees F at the differnt places on the gauge? Is it still in the NORMAL range?

Cooling Fan, Electric

The fan control system consists of:

A two-speed radiator electric motor on all 3.0L/3.0L FF, 3.2L SHO and 3.8L engines with ATX.

Two one-speed engine cooling fan motors attached to a fan shroud located behind the radiator on vehicles equipped with 3.0L SHO engines and MTX.

The radiator electric motor is wired to operate only when the ignition switch (11572) is in the RUN position, thereby preventing radiator electric motor operation after the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position.

The cooling fan system is controlled during vehicle operation by the Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 12A650 which will energize the radiator electric motor under the following conditions:

Radiator electric motor is turned on with reduced current for the 3.0L SHO and on at low speed for 3.0L, 3.2L SHO and 3.8L if:

a. Engine temperature is higher than normal. Radiator electric motor starts running at 102°C (215°F) and stops running at 99°C (210°F).

b. A/C clutch is engaged.

Cooling fan will run at high speed if:

a. Engine temperature is higher than desirable and radiator electric motor has been operating at low speed. Radiator electric motor starts running at high speed at 110°C (230°F) and stops running at 107°C (224°F).

On 3.2L SHO engines, low speed radiator electric motor operation is achieved by using a dropping resistor in series with the motors.

The 3.0L/3.0L FF, 3.0L SHO and 3.8L use a dual winding radiator electric motor in which low speed fan control is achieved through the low fan control winding circuit (no dropping resistor).

The normal operation and cycling of the radiator electric motor causes the temperature gauge indicator to read between the mid-point and upper portion of the temperature gauge scale.

The slightly higher indicator reading returns to mid-point when radiator electric motor operation begins.

 

[projectSHO89]

The twin fans are wired in parallel. They should both always run at the same speed.

Steve

 

[URLACHER54]

the temp gauge goes up to about the O and R and when i turn on the a/c or heat it comes down to the M and the A which is were it should be.i know the in the NORMAL range is supposed to be ok but when it creps up to the O and the R i have blown 4 hoses from the pressure

 

[CerberuS]

It might be your IIRC as that is what controls teh fans. Also you could have a bad temp senso if both fans are working.

I know the 3.0 has a different fan setup being that it has only 1 fan. I dont know if the motor will fit.

They dont interchange.

 

[SHOZ123]

The hoses should be able to withstand 16 lbs pressure. If the hoses were worn out or the cap is bad then that would cause the hoses to burst.

As hoses wear the will get cracks internally. You won't know it until they blow. So one should change the hoses at least once every 100k.

The cap too is really important though it usually will fail in the low pressure side. If the cap can't build 16 lbs pressure then the coolant will not be able to control the "micro" boiling that goes on in side the heads at the exhaust valve areas.

One thing I am going to start doing is diluting the glycol content from 50/50 to 10% antifreeze to 90% distilled water and some water wetter for 9 months out of the year.

 

[URLACHER54]

the cap is new, water pump, both the sensors near the t-stat, t-stat,radiator, upper and lower hose, and a couple of the other heater hoses, plus just recently had a BG flush, and i am becoming very dissapointed because this car is in very good condition and i am becoming afraid to drive it any where. and my wife has hated the car from the begining. just ordered the fan motor should be here monday. i dont know what else to check.

 

[SHOZ123]

Might as well put in a radiator and have all new.

 

[URLACHER54]

i did, thats the first thing i did.

 

[SHOZ123]

If the gauge sender is good the way the needle should move is exactly as you describe. When idling and with the AC off the needle should go to the upper part of normal and then when the fan comes on it should drop. Unless you have some actual temperature readings showing that the coolant is going over 230F you don't have a problem.