Exhaust Stud Removal

[sperold]

Old topic but I need advice from experienced people.

Up here in Canada, where a fuel pump lasts much longer than a fuel tank, the exhaust studs seem to partially dissolve along their exposed length. Zones of these studs will have threads missing and the cross sectional area reduced.

If I get the nut off, I doubt there are enough threads left to drag the Y-Pipe up into position.

How do I get the damaged stud out: if the stud stays intact and I have something to bite-on, and if the studs breaks off in the exhaust manifold ??

I have new exhaust studs and they seem to have some kind of interference thread form, which makes removal difficult.
On the exhaust manifold, the tapped hole for the stud goes all the way through (not blind with a bottom), so I have been told.

Any tips would be appreciated. Has anyone successfully drilled them out if broken off in the manifold?

 

[zoomlater]

I have not done it, but when I was under my California SHO Shop serviced car (clutch was replaced), I found one of the exhaust studs drilled out. In place of it, they installed a much smaller bolt/nut to hold the Y pipe in place. Great.....

 

[BaySHO Performance]

I just had to replace an exhaust stud on a client car. N811-284-S101

The professional way to do it is to weld a nut on the bottom of the stud. One still runs the risk of the stud snapping, however. Otherwise the best thing to do is to cut off the stud with a Dremel / cutting wheel, but leave 1/8" of the stud proud of the ******. Use the Dremel to get a flat surface.

No way to get a hammer in there with an ordinary punch. So get an automatic center punch such as this one from Grainger : https://tinyurl.com/yyfs778f

Start with a pilot drill, then go larger and larger until most of the stud is removed. Be prepared for the bits to jam. Best to just kiss the hole to stop that from happening. Once the stud walls have got fairly thin, try collapsing the remains in on itself with a hammer and small chisel. I made the mistake of grinding the stud flush with the ******, so couldn't do that, and had to go all the way to what was left in the pic. I have all sorts of bolt extractors, but they got me nowhere. I put an M10 * 1.5 helicoil in.

 

[Anonymous]

I just had to replace an exhaust stud on a client car. N811-284-S101

The professional way to do it is to weld a nut on the bottom of the stud. One still runs the risk of the stud snapping, however. Otherwise the best thing to do is to cut off the stud with a Dremel / cutting wheel, but leave 1/8" of the stud proud of the ******. Use the Dremel to get a flat surface.

No way to get a hammer in there with an ordinary punch. So get an automatic center punch such as this one from Grainger : https://tinyurl.com/yyfs778f

Start with a pilot drill, then go larger and larger until most of the stud is removed. Be prepared for the bits to jam. Best to just kiss the hole to stop that from happening. Once the stud walls have got fairly thin, try collapsing the remains in on itself with a hammer and small chisel. I made the mistake of grinding the stud flush with the ******, so couldn't do that, and had to go all the way to what was left in the pic. I have all sorts of bolt extractors, but they got me nowhere. I put an M10 * 1.5 helicoil in.

I'm in the same boat I got like three studs that are kinked up with rust and are on the verge of breaking if I use them again, I just replaced a clutch and I noticed how bad they are so I wanna **** two birds with one stone by getting them out and replacing them while I have the Y-pipe off.