Excessive Fuel Consumption

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seraphiem

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First off, I would like to thank all who contribute, both the regulars and irregulars. As with most cult car forums (unlike the boy racer stuff), this one has provided an exceptional amount of technical information while still being very civil and mature.

I bought a ’93 ATX with 140k miles about three weeks ago as my second or project car and have been quite happy with it. When I picked it up it ran great and was super clean minus a noisy suspension in need of work. Over the course of the 2500 some odd miles I have driven it I have watched my fuel consumption go from about 18 mpg down to anywhere from 9 – 12 mpg currently. Note, this is extreme stop and go driving. Traffic by me is beyond comprehension. I don’t consider myself ‘beating’ on it, but do like to wind it out every once in a while when I get the chance.

Over the course of the past three weekends I’ve done rather simple preventive maintance. First thing I did was change the oil and filter, along with a new T-Stat and flushed the coolant system. Before hand I was getting wild temp fluctuations for the coolant and this brought it down to a constant ‘L’ reading.

After pulling the codes I got the common 332 and 176 codes (along with the IMRC 551) I set about vanquishing that ever bright and annoying CEL. Well after replacing the air filter and cleaning the front plug wells, I pulled the TB off to clean the nostrils. The EGR nostrils were no doubt severely coked up but the top IAB nostrils were rather clean and obstruction free. Buttoned everything back up and the car seems good to go. Drove it for about 200 miles and all seemed well until the CEL (172 and 551 this time) sprang back up, and now, the idle oscillates when in park or neutral. IE, the idle speed shoots up to 1100 and then down to 500-400, up to 1200 and then stalls. The strange thing is, it will not do this when first started up or after I start it back up after a stall. Only after coming down from speed.

Frustrated, I cleaned the MAF filaments along with the IAC/IAB. Both units did look brand new and the PO did say he replaced a few sensors. Reset the Idle speed program and applied loads as appropriate while the computer is learning. Same result, horrible oscillatory idle until the engine eventually stalls.

While trying to hunt down vacuum leaks I finally figured out the secondaries were not closing on start-up. That 551 made sense as I finally found the unplugged plug for the IMRC solenoid. Wow, the car runs like a bat out of **** now. But, found no vacuum leaks and the car still stalls.

That’s at the point I’m currently at, I’m hoping a working IMRC would bring my mileage upto a more tolerable level but I have my doubts.

So does anything sound glaring? I haven’t tested/replaced the TPS but I have doubts that it would affect my idle (or fuel consumption) this much. The same thing with the O2 sensors, my understanding is that bad O2 sensors would cause bad mileage but have minimal impact on idle speed. They also look rather new. The plugs and wires look newer, (non-Motorcraft) but who knows how they are. No tell-tale signs of misfire though. KOER tests proved no codes at all and cylinder balance test came back good.

My only guesses left are the TPS, ECT, and possibly plugged/bad cats. The car does perform well when moving so I have doubts about the exhaust being plugged. And I have a constant ‘L’ reading from the ECT which seems consistent with other forum members.

So again, anything that I haven’t thought about or covered? The idle doesn’t bother me too much, its getting the 9 – 12 mpg and thinking about my cats burning themselves up and spitting back up the EGR that gets to me.

I apologize for such a long-winded thread. I just always like to put everything up front.
 

MOSHO92

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That is a great post. There is more than enough information to get started on here.

I think that considering the codes you got, (172) the system is dumping fuel in because it thinks it is lean. The 172 pertains to the O2 sensor.

I think what i would try next is to disconect the O2 sensors and see how the car runs with readings only from the MAF and TPS to determine fuel input.

If that doesnt work, I am sure other members here will provide some more helpful informantion.

Thanks again for such a complete post, it's very refreshing.
 

oh_SHO

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Sorry I don't have anything to add but that was a great post. If we all (including myself) posted like that... Well we would all get along better. thumb
 

1slickRED89

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I would try the ECT next, i've seen (and modified) the transfer function for this sensor, it has lots of control over fuel mixture. you can get one at Auto zone for $15, that is if you don't mind Wells brand parts. lateron, Corey
 

seraphiem

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Hmm,

I think I have come up with an idea why the car idles poorly just after cleaning the nostrils.

Orginally I was going to pull the entire intake off and do a thorough B-12 cleaning. Well, after seeing all that EGR plumbing hooked up to the intake I retreated in fear of snapping that $170 Dealer only tubing.

So I actually removed all the fasteners for the intake and did pry the front plenum off the head. About 1/2" at most. Well, I'm thinking I have a slight vaccum leak from the intake surface not mating fully onto the intake gasket when I remounted it. I can't hear any leaks, but its one of the few things I haven't fully looked into yet.

I'm still kinda hoping that my fuel mileage will improve since the secondaries were previously always open. Can't tell yet since its been a very light driving week for me. This sound plausible?

Now does the ECT provide a temp for the actual coolant gauge as well? I was trying to basemark my consistent temps against others, but that would be futile if it has its own sending unit.

I'm not a big fan of biasing an ECT to 'fool' the ECU for A/F purposes, but for testing thats different. Anyone now what resistance value that guy throws out at an ideal operating temp? What about at cold (say 70 - 80 F)? Would be interesting to find its Temp vs. Resistance curve for any weird artifacts.

On the topic of O2 sensors, those 172 and 176 codes keep sneaking up on me. Orginally, the 176 would always come up. After cleaning the EGR/Intake it comes up with 172. Both obvisiouly detect a lean state and the ECU then dumps fuel to enrichen it. Well, that does fit in with what is going on. Havn't unplugged them yet, should be interesting what happens when I do. Will try tonight.

But why does the fault switch from the front sensor to the rear after I get the EGR unplugged? Just to spite me for trying to fix it?

Guess only way to tell would be to test the actual sensors as documented on SHOtimes.

Again, thanks all, if it wasn't for great boards like this, I would be bashing my head against the wall when it comes to all of the cars/bikes I've owned that have been slightly 'different'.
 

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