Engine won't turn over

[Marccus]

In just replaced the cam seal closest to the firewall (right front of engine), connected everything back up, but when I try to start the car, the engine keeps cranking but won't turn over.

I didn't (and still don't) hear the fuel pump come on with that whirr sound that lasts for about 5 seconds. I get a little bit of the sound for a fraction of a second and then the sound dies off.

I can't seem to locate anything I didn't reconnect.

Can anyone advise?

I did reconnect the ground wire at the firewall that connects to the intake manifiold screw.

 

[projectSHO89]

The fuel pump is supposed to come on for 1-1.5 seconds when the key is first turned to RUN.

Listen for that.

If you are not getting it at all or for a much shorter time period, some troubleshooting is in order.

Go to http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=83 and look at the diagram of the EEC self test connector. Identify the Fuel Pump test pin. Use a jumper wire and short that pin to ground with the ignition switch set to RUN. This should turn the fuel pump on continuously.

Fuel pump ran normally: EEC-IV or wiring harness connection problem.

Fuel pump did not run normally during test: Inertial switch (in trunk), CCRM, or wiring harness problem.

Perform this test, then let us know what the results are.

Steve

 

[Marccus]

I found the problem. It had nothing to do with the work I was doing. I removed the battery, and in doing so, the small red wire that leaves the positive battery cable and connects to the "who-knows-what" (I haven't what this wire is for yet) severed. I just repaired the wire with a butt connector and the car started right up.

Cam seal replacement went fine. Thanks for your help.

My check engine light is still on - I thought replacing the cam shaft sensor would fix this. This is the first time the light has come on in 13 years.

Car has problems starting forward from a stop - it hesitates and loses power.

I'll have to run the EEC-IV test to see the codes.

It seams that it would be difficult obtain the codes using the flashing check engine light. If you miss something in the sequence as the codes are spit out, won't you screw up interpreting the correct codes?

In other words, you have to follow all those short and long flashes and the pauses between flashes to get the correct code number.

I haven't done this yet or seen anyone do it, so it seems daunting to me right now.

thumbs_u

 

[munkee]

Marcus, it is a little bit tricky at first to follow along and guess the spacing in between the flashes. What I do is take a pen and pad and mark down all of the flashes in groups as I see them and I always run the codes twice. If something isn't the same from one time to the next, I run them again. I also bought the code reader from Wal-Mart for 20 bucks and you can set that to beep also. It helps a little. It's not too hard though. Good luck.