engine wiring harness question

[thecrew2999]

ok now this question is different and no one say search it because im not even sure how to search it.

ok i got a 95 atx and i converted it to mtx and kept all the wiring and computer from the atx but just adapted it to mtx.

question is since im having problems with wiring and the computer acting weird im gonna try and make a different approach to fixing the problem.

i wanna take the mtx engine harness and use it to my atx harness that goes into the car.

i tried to hook up a 92 mtx wiring harness to the main harness and it didnt fit but i know the wiring and pretty much all year SHOs are different in some way.

now the wiring harness im talking about on the gen 2 is on the drivers side inner fender behind the the cruise control box on a 95 atx on the fender. i wanna use the atx body wiring harness and the dash harness and put what i believe would be a 95 mtx engine wiring harness and computer in the car.

would this work ? i know there might be a few issues to work out like the clutch interlock switch might be sorta a hassel to get figured out but im sure i can by pass it. any other issues i would need to over come?

i think this would be the best bet for a 3.2 atx to mtx swap since there would be no wire splicing like for the alt and the oil level sensor and the started depending what starter you use also.

if the harness plugs in im not sure if you would lose function to certain things like reverse lights or anything else.

if all else fails ill be looking for a pretty much perfect shape 3.2 wiring harness and a computer

any help would be great

 

[AREA 91]

Paging PA Racer.........

 

[thecrew2999]

haha, i forgot the name you told me. maybe ill have to PM him

 

[PAracer]

I tried the MTX wiring as well. I gave up shortly after I started looking at just how much I would have to rewire to get the different harnesses to jive together. That would have been too much work on top of what I was already taking on.

I would stick with the ATX harness and computer.

What kinds of issues are you having? All I had to do was the clutch (I put a jumper wire in its place), the reverse light (I think), and the shift selector box on top of the old trans. The TwEECer gets you around rev limiters and such. My overdrive light was also flashing, so I removed the bulb.

I'm happy enough with the car as it is. I'll let someone else figure out the MTX harnesses. When that time comes, I'd be glad to swap over to the real thing.

 

[thecrew2999]

what all did it look like in lines of getting the mtx and such to work on a atx car? the wiring i mean.

like i stated i already planned on getting the clutch interlock to be bypassed.

you know you dont need a tweecer to over ride the rev limiter, all you gotta do it solder 2 of the pins together in the atx shift selector box so the computer thinks the car is in drive and park at the same time.

if its too much work ill just rewire with the atx wiring harness.

the issues im having just started a week ago when i left the car sit without the battery hooked up. all i did was jump the battery from the completely dead state it was and now the parking lights stay on any time the battery is connected and also my reverse lights went out.

my car also hasent been performing the self test the way it should, but thats been going on for a little bit now and wasent my major concern as of yet. i dont know if the headlights and reverse light tie in with the computer somehow but if it does im sure thats my problem... im taking the problem as being a wiring problem under the hood and im going to be dropping the engine and subframe real soon to get the car painted and cleaned up all pretty.

when i do that i will be rewiring it with a new atx wiring harness and probley new d4u1 since that is what is used on the 94 - 95 atx and thats what i need for wiring harness.

this isnt a major concern since im sure it wiring but i was mainly wondering what it would take to make it all mtx wiring and computer under the hood.

does the mtx engine harness plug into the atx on any years?

 

[thecrew2999]

also to add in here for anyone who might read. does spinning the tires in mud and such on a mtx none welded diff pin run a chance of throwing the pin ? i got stuck in mud tonight and it got me real worried when i got stuck and was spinning, i didnt go balls to the wall or anything but it was spinning.

 

[PAracer]

what all did it look like in lines of getting the mtx and such to work on a atx car? the wiring i mean.

Not only are the engine bay harnesses different, but the wiring that goes from the engine bay and up under the dash is different. A big problem here is that the plugs don't even match up. You would have to swap everything or map out each and every wire location to come up with a way to splice the wires into where they need to go.

like i stated i already planned on getting the clutch interlock to be bypassed.

Mine is an anti-theft device right now. If I carry the jumper with me, the car cannot be started. I would love to use a SPOUT connector for a more permenant installation.

you know you dont need a tweecer to over ride the rev limiter, all you gotta do it solder 2 of the pins together in the atx shift selector box so the computer thinks the car is in drive and park at the same time.

I did the shift selector mods. Since I already had a TwEECer for my cams and such, I wanted to streamline my programming by only having one RPM value to keep track of.

if its too much work ill just rewire with the atx wiring harness.

The ATX stuff works with only a couple or three changes. The MTX wiring looks to be an entire weekend of work in itself. Once I get rid of my dash, however...

the issues im having just started a week ago when i left the car sit without the battery hooked up. all i did was jump the battery from the completely dead state it was and now the parking lights stay on any time the battery is connected and also my reverse lights went out.

That's an odd set of circumstances. I don't have my EVTM book with me, but I suspect that the parking lights are in the same circuit as the reverse lights. Is it possible that something ahorted out there to cause your issues and drain the battery?

my car also hasent been performing the self test the way it should, but thats been going on for a little bit now and wasent my major concern as of yet. i dont know if the headlights and reverse light tie in with the computer somehow but if it does im sure thats my problem... im taking the problem as being a wiring problem under the hood and im going to be dropping the engine and subframe real soon to get the car painted and cleaned up all pretty.

Those two systems are supposed to be separate. The reverse light is activated by a detent plunger on the side of the trans case, right?

when i do that i will be rewiring it with a new atx wiring harness and probley new d4u1 since that is what is used on the 94 - 95 atx and thats what i need for wiring harness.

A known good harness and D4U1 would take care of a lot of variables. The newer computer will work with a 93 harness. I'm not sure if a new engine harness will jive with an older vehicle harness. I would be sure to get a harness that is the same as what the car came from the factory with.

this isnt a major concern since im sure it wiring but i was mainly wondering what it would take to make it all mtx wiring and computer under the hood.

This is uncharted territory. We're on the cutting edge right now as far as the conversion goes.

does the mtx engine harness plug into the atx on any years?

I doubt it.

also to add in here for anyone who might read. does spinning the tires in mud and such on a mtx none welded diff pin run a chance of throwing the pin ? i got stuck in mud tonight and it got me real worried when i got stuck and was spinning, i didnt go balls to the wall or anything but it was spinning.

Don't worry. You weren't putting much load on it. Remember, there are roll pins holding the diff pins into place. Unless you snap the little pins, the diff pins won't move. It takes a shock load to cause a diff failure. You haven't done any clutch drops, have you?

Mike

 

[thecrew2999]

well as for the battery it was dead from me messing with the stereo and the alarm system and when i left it with no charge in it. i think i drained the battery one to many times and it might not work right again .

it is possible something shorted out in the system. i suspect bad wiring like i do know that ford uses a negative ground to turn the lighting system on. in other words the ground has to be a open circuit in order to turn on where as most other manufactors choose positive.

i know there is a brown wire that starts at the headlight switch and goes threw the firewall and such to control the parking lights.
trust me i checked the **** outta the brown wire for faults, removed the alarm and reverse glow gauges, well also the auto light switch, the headlight switch and everytime the battery is connected the parking lights are on half way.

i know i probley got a few grounds that need looked at. come to think of it i did remove some crap when i tried to touch up the radiator suport. i was rust proofing. there also was like 4 ground wires that were right near the airbag deploy module.

i hope thats it, you got me thinking of that so i must thank you

as for the reverse lights, yes i do have it wired up to the plug on the side of the mtx. also im not sure if the reverse light has a ground anywhere near the radiator, i always assumed it was near the trunk.

im going to be checking out a wiring diagram to see for all the grounds. ill let ya know if i get it figured out.

no matter what im still going to rewire with a new harness and computer to fix my problem of the car not running the tests and also my wiring is sorta aged so id like a new wire harness. would also make a great time to get the blue vacuum lines and wire harness covers.

anyone know where i might be able to get those? or should i just buy the stuff from a auto parts store and do it myself?