Engine Support Bar - 2 points?

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mrgrim333

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So I'm following the clutch replacement guide (http://www.shophoenixproject.com/clutch/clutch.htm)

and got myself a transverse support bar
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Astro-Pneumatic-Transverse-Engine-Support-Bar-31-64-/310306605244)

Got the first hook on the front bracket, but I can't figure out what he's talking about with the "EGR Bung" or susceptible safe attachment point. Usually I'd just try to figure it out myself but I'm not laying under an engine that's only properly held by one friggin hook.
:salute:
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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Yes, two points.

One using the front engine loop, and one using a bolt into the drivers side of the rear head.

I always keep the intake manifold on, but you need to use padding so your chain/strap/cable does not damage the intake. I normally use 4-5 layers of cardboard.

2010service02.jpg
 

mrgrim333

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So this is the setup I have in the back.
I just ran the hook through the back strap?
(had to push my spark cables out of the way, it's by that passage).
Download1 zps0acdbfdb
 
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rubydist

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well, hooking it to the intake strap is not the best choice.

I would find a way to get the hook/strap around the exhaust manifold or on a bolt to the head rather than the intake.
 

zblackbeast

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When we move shit around at the shop, we usually just hoist it around a few of the runners on the intake. not optimal, just easier. just remember to spread the load.
 

mrgrim333

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So I got the supplied cables around the exhaust manifold.
The are 1/8th inch braided steel cables.
Does this look legit enough?

(Only one shown in the photos, I got the 2nd one the same).
Cable3 zps6a963f75
Cable1 zps7fb453ab
IMG 20130314 222037 zpsad85f5db
IMG 20130314 222032 zps9a26e517
 
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Mr Anonymous

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Throw those cables in the trash.

Also never use the hooks to hold the engine while you're underneath it. Only use them to help angle the engine during re-assembly.

Get two ~4 foot pieces of 3/16" chain and attach them to the heads where the bottom intake brackets attach (M8x1.25 gr10.9 bolts), and run the chain over the support bar.
 

zak

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Throw those cables in the trash.

Also never use the hooks to hold the engine while you're underneath it. Only use them to help angle the engine during re-assembly.

Get two ~4 foot pieces of 3/16" chain and attach them to the heads where the bottom intake brackets attach (M8x1.25 gr10.9 bolts), and run the chain over the support bar.

This is good advice and the method I use, except I use four chains to two 4x4s set on 2x3's running along the fenders (these fender spacers need a peice of wood on the end near the headlights to provide for anti-rotation/stability). These chains run to bolts threaded into the head after removing the intake supports as Mr. A discusses above. Use stress rated chain, and in my case stress rated "O head" bolts & couplers. In this way you can loosen the bolts to tilt the trans end down after the subframe is out.
 

mrgrim333

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Throw those cables in the trash.

Also never use the hooks to hold the engine while you're underneath it. Only use them to help angle the engine during re-assembly.

Get two ~4 foot pieces of 3/16" chain and attach them to the heads where the bottom intake brackets attach (M8x1.25 gr10.9 bolts), and run the chain over the support bar.

Download2 zps78eaf5f2

Thank you! This made the most sense, the fact that I could just use the bolt holes for the intake bracket on the head was visually descriptive enough to find! Bought some bolts and chain and now I don't feel I have a >90% of dying! Yay! :thankyou:

Update:
Engine is hanging just fine! :D
 
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Airborne

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Here is what I did.

2points zpsb0a3147d

used 3/16 chain to intake bracket bolts on the head
 

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