Hi all, I just bought a 91 SHO today and I am new to this forum. To be honest I picked this car up for a 100 bucks. The body is actually a 8 out of 10. With only 90,000 miles, I couldn't pass it up. One of the first problems I have to tackle is the engine. The car runs fine until the engine heats up, then it just dies. If I wait for it to cool down, it will start right up. There is also a whining noise coming from the tranny. The noise sounds kind of like an electric motor and stops when I press the clutch down. These are the first two things I have to takle to give it back the respect it once had. The guy I bought it from did nothing to it, he just drove it until he had too many problems. I also have clickng when turning the wheels, sounds like rack and pinion too me. I have been a die hard chevy fan for years, if I could get this thing going, maybe I will have to include ford as well. THank you, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Engine shuts off when it heats up HELP
- Thread starter gregkomp
- Start date
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Just a wild shot in the dark, here. Is the car getting TOO hot? I recently learned the hard way, that when the car gets too hot, it takes a nap, whether you like it or not. I have an aftermarket temp guage, so I know mine was HOT! Would it be possible that your temp guage is inaccurate, and that the car is a lot hotter than you think?
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
Your first step is to read the codes stored in the PCM (powertrain control module -- fancy term for computer) memory. Here's a good website to learn how to do it yourself: http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html . All you'll need is a paperclip or short piece of wire.
Reading the codes should help identify the problem. My guess is your CPS (crankshaft position sensor) may be failing and causing your problem, since this is the most common cause of the problem you've described. Using the forum's search function, you can search under the term 'cps' to get lots of info on it's function, how to replace it, etc. You should also familiarize yourself with the routine maintenance commonly referred to as the '60K' service. Again, searching under the term '60K' will offer hundreds of threads of info.
Another resource with tons of SHO information is http://www.shotimes.com . Their FAQ section is like a bible of SHO ownership.
Welcome to the wonderful world of SHOwnership, and to the forum!
<small>[ February 27, 2003, 10:12 PM: Message edited by: SHOooo ]</small>
Reading the codes should help identify the problem. My guess is your CPS (crankshaft position sensor) may be failing and causing your problem, since this is the most common cause of the problem you've described. Using the forum's search function, you can search under the term 'cps' to get lots of info on it's function, how to replace it, etc. You should also familiarize yourself with the routine maintenance commonly referred to as the '60K' service. Again, searching under the term '60K' will offer hundreds of threads of info.
Another resource with tons of SHO information is http://www.shotimes.com . Their FAQ section is like a bible of SHO ownership.
Welcome to the wonderful world of SHOwnership, and to the forum!
<small>[ February 27, 2003, 10:12 PM: Message edited by: SHOooo ]</small>
the symptom of running for a short time and killing, then when allowed to cool will start and repeat is actually a fairly common ford symptom... and in most applications is a result of a bad ignition control module.... ford has had infinite problems with these in the past, going back to the fender mounted TFI modules, all the way up to distributor mounted ignition modules.... HOWEVER... we don't have a distributor based ignition system, and i have not heard of this happening with our particular system...
that being said, i concur completely with pulling diagnostic codes... and if by chance you have the opportunity to try out a known good condition ignition module... i would suggest that as well
Louis
that being said, i concur completely with pulling diagnostic codes... and if by chance you have the opportunity to try out a known good condition ignition module... i would suggest that as well
Louis
SHOTerror
New Member
That is the most un-motivating web siteSHOooo:
Your first step is to read the codes stored in the PCM (powertrain control module -- fancy term for computer) memory. Here's a good website to learn how to do it yourself: http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html . All you'll need is a paperclip or short piece of wire.
Reading the codes should help identify the problem. My guess is your CPS (crankshaft position sensor) may be failing and causing your problem, since this is the most common cause of the problem you've described. Using the forum's search function, you can search under the term 'cps' to get lots of info on it's function, how to replace it, etc. You should also familiarize yourself with the routine maintenance commonly referred to as the '60K' service. Again, searching under the term '60K' will offer hundreds of threads of info.
Another resource with tons of SHO information is http://www.shotimes.com . Their FAQ section is like a bible of SHO ownership.
Welcome to the wonderful world of SHOwnership, and to the forum!
Try this one, it actually got me to do it:http://www.midwestsho.com/instructions.html
Good job mickey thumbs_u
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
Greg,
Welcome to the forum!
Your $100 SHO sounds like it has great potential to become a $2000 SHO (see my signature).
The other guys have given you a good headstart on diagnosing the stalling. Contiue on that path and see what codes may be present. It sounds like either the fuel pump or the ignition system is cutting out after warmup. The next time it cuts out, observe the tach and CEL (Check Engine Light) while cranking. Does the tach move and register between 100 and 400 rpm? Does the CEL stay on or go off while cranking?
The whining noise is probably either the throwout or pilot bearing. Plan on a clutch job to fix this one properly.
The clicking noise while turning is usually the outer CV joint, not the rack. It might also be a wheel bearing, so check that also. Replacement of the axle will fix it if it is the CV joint.
Steve
<small>[ February 28, 2003, 08:26 AM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>
Welcome to the forum!
Your $100 SHO sounds like it has great potential to become a $2000 SHO (see my signature).
The other guys have given you a good headstart on diagnosing the stalling. Contiue on that path and see what codes may be present. It sounds like either the fuel pump or the ignition system is cutting out after warmup. The next time it cuts out, observe the tach and CEL (Check Engine Light) while cranking. Does the tach move and register between 100 and 400 rpm? Does the CEL stay on or go off while cranking?
The whining noise is probably either the throwout or pilot bearing. Plan on a clutch job to fix this one properly.
The clicking noise while turning is usually the outer CV joint, not the rack. It might also be a wheel bearing, so check that also. Replacement of the axle will fix it if it is the CV joint.
Steve
<small>[ February 28, 2003, 08:26 AM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>
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