Engine rebuild question

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SHOwener1986

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Im looking to rebuild the motor out of my 93 atx, Id like to go through the entire thing, including cylinders, rings, just about everything. Where can i get a quality rebuild kit, or who can I send it to so it can be taken down and rebuilt.
 

Off Road SHO

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SHOwener1986 said:
Im looking to rebuild the motor out of my 93 atx, Id like to go through the entire thing, including cylinders, rings, just about everything. Where can i get a quality rebuild kit, or who can I send it to so it can be taken down and rebuilt.


So you have a lot of cash to spend on this? Or are you looking to get it done for 1,000.00 or less. These motors were a limited run and don't have a lot of parts suppliers competing for your dollars, so be prepared to spend about 1,100.00 dollars in parts and machine shop fees. And that's not including the assembly fees.

Your engine is in that sad of shape?

Tom
 

SHOwener1986

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the motor that I want to take apart isnt in bad shape at all, it has 139k on it and I plan on putting it into my not crashed SHO. I just dont want to have any problems 1000 miles down the road after the swap. Should I even bother with this rebuild and do all the maintenance, valve cover gaskets timing belt, water pump and so on?
 

Off Road SHO

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Since you have it out of your car, I would do a rod and main bearing job, new crank and cam sensors, new water pump, and replace all the rubber seals. That right there is going to be over 400.00. Do the valve adjustment after everything is back together. Where did you get the engine? Did they or you do a compression check on the cylinders?

Tom
 

rangerj

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Some added thoughts and some amplification of what Tom has said;

First consider the fact that SDPatt has 300,000 miles on his engine and has not had the heads off!

Before you consider dissassembling the engine for a rebuild please do some serious reading on the subject of engine rebuilding. A set of rod bearings, crank bearings and a set of rings is NOT an engine rebuild. You must understand that these engines are intended to perform in the 6,000 to 7,000 RPM range. In order to do this without disintegrating they MUST be balanced.
So, everything you do to these engines must be with that in mind, EVERYTHING.

So, take the advice given above and check the compression. Then inspect the engine as thouroughly as you can without removing the heads. Replacing the rod and crank bearings is acceptable, but be sure to use top quality replacement parts. Replace the front and rear crank seals and as many other seals as is necessary. I would replace the camshaft seals and all other seals that are difficult to get at when the engine is in the car.

Other components that are original, or at the specified replacement milage should also be addressed.

If you think it is necessary, then have the motor examined by a quality shop.
If you really want to do a complete rebuild, INCLUDING BALANCING, be prepared to spend $1,500 to $2,000 at a minimum. The block should be dissassembled, boiled, then cylinder bored, crank line bored, decked, and cross hatched. Then the heads need to be dissassembled, boiled, checked for warpage, planed if neccessary, CC'ed, and given a proper valve grinding with new seats and guides. All the springs have to be tested for spring compression and any change in hight.

The cam journals have to be checked for wear and any "out-of-round" and corrected as necessary. If the journals have to be corrected you will have to find oversized cams, or have bearings made by a machine shop, or find a better set of heads.

All of the above will require a top quality machine shop and a lot of shop time at $85 to $100 per hour. Remember the word BALANCE? Well in order to do this the shop will do 80% to 90% of the work by machine, and the finish work by hand, interpret TIME.

Think about what it is you want to accomplish. Are you building a race car, or do you want a dependable daily driver? :shrug:
 

SHOwener1986

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dependable daily driver that will be reliable even after a hard drive once and a while
 

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