Engine Rebuild Parts List

[92ShoOff]

I'm planning on doing a complete engine rebuild on my 142k 3.0 motor later this year because the valve stem seals are bad and I have a few other problems that I have to tear various parts of the motor apart to fix. So I figure I should just disassemble the whole motor and do everything at once and rebuild the motor at the same time so I don't have to go through all that work required to do so later down the road.

Anyhow I was wanting to present to you guys my list of parts I plan on replacing to do the job and was checking to see if there is anything I've left out. All of the sensors on the car are fairly new so I won't need to replace any of those, and the car has a farly new complete tune-up and also has new accessory belts. The only other thing I plan on having done is having the heads milled, so here is my list and please feel free to make any suggestions and add anything that I may have forgotten.

Midwest SHO Upper Gasket Set
Lower Gasket Set (main seals and oil pan gaskets)
Piston Rings
Rod Bearings
Main Bearings
Water Pump
Timing Belt
Thermostat


Thanks everyone!
-Andrew

 

[SHOtimer]

You will need to have the block taken to a machine shop to be magnafluxed, honed, and cleaned. It also wouldn't hurt to take them your crankshaft so that they can make sure it is worth using on a rebuild.

You might also want to replace all of your freeze plugs while you have the block out and being prepped.

Doug

 

[rangerj]

At that low milage an engine rebuild should not be necessary. Besides the valve seals, what other work needs to be done to the motor? Have you done a compression test?

As stated above the block should be cleaned and magnafluxed to be sure there are no cracks in the block. Then the deck should be checked for flatness, the cylinders miked for out of round and taper, the crank bore checked for straightness, and any corrections made by a top quality machine shop. The the cylinder heads should also be addressed, for any warpage, a valve job, valve guides, spring hight and tension, cam bearing surfaces, etc.

When it all comes together it MUST be balanced. All of the above must be done correctly and professionally and it is not cheap. Are you sure you want to go this route?

 

[92ShoOff]

Hmmmm.... I was pretty sure I wanted to go that route. I wasn't even planning on taking the block out actually. My plan was just to clean it up while it was inside the engine compartment and hone it myself. I think I already did a compression test on the car last year, but I don't recall for sure. The last car of mine I did I remember having a heck of a time doing on side of the motor... and all the other cars have been V8's... so it must've been the SHO. And I do recall getting a lower reading from at least one of the cylinders. Regardless, if I do a compression test would any of you guys be willing to tell me if I should honestly rebuild my motor based on the results I provide?

Some of the other problems that need addressed on my motor that is going to require me to tear various sections of the motor apart are: leaking water pump, leaking front main seal (rear main seal was replaced when the tranny was rebuilt), coolant leaking into my exhaust (but not mixing with my oil, luckily... but I'm not yet sure what's causing that other than possibly the rear head gasket), and my exhaust pipes are filled with carbon buildup. I'm not so sure that the valve stem seals are causing this major buildup, but I'm not sure what else it could be. Regardless, I think there is another problem causing this.

About how much money on an estimated guess do you guys think I'm looking into investing on just having the block cleaned and magnafluxed, the heads magnafluxed and milled (if necessary), have the crank checked out, and have everything balanced? I'm guessing that's already $250+, huh? Well I appreciate your help and advice so far guys.

-Andrew

 

[oh_SHO]

Yes give us some compression test results. If it were me I would just pull the motor to replace all that stuff. If you just address the know issues then I would just do it in the car. Or better yet get a 3.2, toss your 3.0 heads on and put that in. A tad more torque and no issues. haha