Engine cooling upgrades?

[gamefanatic]

Yeah I had been looking around on the Internet, but to no avail. I believe ours is 3.5" and that a 4.0" would drive it nicely. Keeping in mind that pushing the pump faster will increase the flow rate and possibly PSI. I'm interested in testing. If you can't find something in the Junk yard, maybe someone with a 3D printer could do an ABS print for testing.

As for radiators, they are available in the custom / universal styles. Universal would require some custom bracketing to keep the accumulator and lower cooling lines in place. Proper custom ones should be able to have those items taken into account like the OEM versions, though I'd expect 3x the price of an OEM.

 

[stephen newberg]

And do not forget that under the standard factory system, automatic transmission fluid has a cooling line that goes through the radiator, and you will need to take that into consideration.

pax, smn

 

[Qshiplvr]

Stephen: I take it the cooling line that goes through the radiator that you refer to above are these identical fittings towards the middle on the passenger (right) side?

 

[stephen newberg]

Looks like it to me. I have not looked at it in many years, as I plugged mine up and put in an FPS transmission cooler instead, but I think that is right.

One moment and I will go out and look. Yes, I think so. But to be sure I would have to take stuff apart to follow the lines, as they go into the shroud. Those holes look really small, compared to the lines I see going into them on my OEM radiator, though.

pax, smn

 

[gamefanatic]

Keep in mind, that unless they include the parts, those transmission cooling lines are just a threaded hole. The factory lines are the push lock style. You would need to get an appropriate adapter to get the stock lines tapped in.

Though I think most of us have an aftermarket / Gen2 cooler bypassing the stock radiator. IMHO is the only way it should be setup...

 

[99sho-time]

Just a shot in the dark out of curiosity but what do you guys think of water wetters? Something like royal purple ice. Gimmick? or just another thing to gum up our systems?

 

[gamefanatic]

I run water wetter. There really isn't a huge benefit to running them unless you are on a track. The idea is that water is better at cooling than antifreeze (fact). However there are issues with running water alone like bubbling and higher PSI's at lower temps (compared to coolant mix or other cooling material). There are even coolants that state they never have to be changed (not cheap) and not good if you have a problem. So higher percentage of water you run can equal a higher PSI. This can lead to wearing out old hoses faster (they were gonna go anyway) and is a common problem when band-aiding cooling issues running straight water...

The main reason for those "other" stabilizers is that many tracks won't let you run with coolant as it acts like an oil when it leaks on the track. It makes it nasty to clean up and is a safety hazard.

My experience so far is that there is "minimal" effect of these products in their cooling capability... Also keep in mind that antifreeze and water wetter, etc work to lubricate your pump in addition to stabilizing (removing bubbles). Water is corrosive, but not so much on our aluminum blocks as the SLO cast iron types that rust up nicely...

 

[Qshiplvr]

Having a chemistry background, I have used water wetter products (Redline original, Purple Ice, etc) in a desert climate, and can vouch for real improvement in running cooler temps driving around town. I don't track my cars, so just wanted a little better cooling in a harsh environment. It is a surfactant (like a detergent) and improves heat transfer. I don't have hard test data to back up my claim, only anecdotal evidence. I do know, however, if you leave anything in your cooling system for too long, it is not good on the components. Not changing the coolant and water wetter after a year or two of high temp driving would be like not changing your oil for 20,000 miles or so. You can run that way, but not good for the internals of your engine and systems.

 

[gamefanatic]

Good info, I haven't ran with the wetter for a full year yet, consecutively. I know coolant should be replaced every 2 years. One I get this sensor tuned in on the board I have, I should be able to provide conclusive results. Just need time to figure out the proper formula to get the proper temperatures. I may end up just building a table of known values otherwise...

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

Ok, I gone to scrapyard today and I took measurement of waterpumps pulleys. Duractech 2.5L and Duratech 3.0L have the same pulley dimensions : 5 inches of diameter.

 

[gamefanatic]

I think those pulley's don't have the rips / grooves though right? They are a smooth surface?

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

I didn't check this sadly...

I just check on SHO and it's 4 inches... (and our have 3 mounting holes rather than 4 on others). I can check others motors when I have time but the 3 mounting holes can be a problem.

 

[scphil]

Well I already have the TweeCer as I couldn't get anywhere with the QuarterHorse (as of yet). I monitor the system through the Torque app and one of the original OBDLink MX adapters to monitor my temps on a daily basis. Turning on the fan's sooner doesn't help as with them on they don't maintain the temps. Obviously not using the A/C does help, but these are daily drivers and depending on the load in the car it's not enough.

I know that our cars have better air flow control than the Gen2's, so some of those changes have already been done on ours. I have the Gen2 transmission cooler on mine, and that does take a load off the radiator. I should get one of those thermostats on it, as the tranny temps never get above 180°F and would help to maintain temps. Without the tranny cooler it would stay around 210-233°F.

What else do you check with the OBDlink MX on your SHO ? do you use other apps than Torque ? wondering if anyone has the Ford module on a gen3 SHO https://www.scantool.net/obdlink-mxbt/

 

[gamefanatic]

I primarily use the Torque app as it was among my first and most flexible, and works on Android. I have the Palmer Software (ScanXL) with the Ford Module so I can see every sensor available from the ECU / PCM / ABS / ACC / RSS, etc. I will admit the Palmer software is more clunky and is really not getting any better, but works.

Torque can be used to monitor all those PIDs as well, but you will have to manually set them most of them up. Having the Palmer software can reveal ways to do that, to include the formulas, or AllData has a list of the PIDs.

 

[SHO Sarge]

I had trouble overheating on the track, added a 5 x 7 trans cooler in series and never had trouble again. Just used the typical zip tie mounting method and it worked great. The transmission is the weak link.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[gamefanatic]

What are the track ambient temps? Both my SHO's have Gen1 coolers. Works great for the tranny, but didn't do much for the engine cooling.

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

There is not many options on this aspect.

I never found another ford engine with a waterpump on the driver side (an a possible fitting pulley) other than 3.0/2.5 duratech. Newer duratech (3.5/3.7) seem to have their waterpump elsewhere (belt side probably). Mazda engines maybe...

(Just reading on Ford engine on Wikipedia : "The 3.5 L engine will fit into any engine bay the smaller Duratec 3.0 L will" !?! Anyone wants a new Gen 3 SHO ?)

I made the dry throttle body upgrade explained by Mr Nimz. I put a hose making a loop and returning directly to waterpump. I'm wondering if a re-routing hose going to an additionnal small rad elsewhere on a cool area can make any difference on motor temp...? (The hose is only 3/8.) However, this cooling upgrade will works even if thermostat is closed if my comprehension of this reverse cooling system is correct.

For my knowledge Gamefanatic, Gen 1 and Gen 2 trans coolers are the same no ? I "saved" one from a scrapped 95 and it's big enough...

 

[E1]

When I made SHO R T S (Eaton M90 supercharged '96 SHO) I took out the factory 192'F thermostat and put in a 160'F thermostat.
Be aware - the thermostats in our cars are different in appearance.

I also used a Mach 1 trans cooler. Bolted right in. Got it off Ebay for dirt. Way bigger than the Gen 1/2 SHO trans cooler but I had major tranny upgrades in place too.

 

[gamefanatic]

Just as a note. Both my T-Stats are still, to the best of my knowledge, OEM. Both tested to open around 180°F in boiled water.

I started looking into monitoring temps last year. I just haven't gotten around to installing my arduino based sensors just yet. Might do that towards the end of the month, if I can find the original connector to the sensors. My plan is to monitor the temps at the engine and radiator outlet and get a baseline before making changes. I'd like to have a better idea of the actual effects of the changes.

 

[gamefanatic]

For my knowledge Gamefanatic, Gen 1 and Gen 2 trans coolers are the same no ? I "saved" one from a scrapped 95 and it's big enough...

Sorry, I meant Gen2. I am not certain of any differences in size between gen1/2. Lots of Gen2's have been hitting the junk yards over the past years, but no Gen1's as of yet.

Never thought of bypassing the throttlebody. We don't typically get temperatures cold enough to freeze so that change wouldn't hurt the daily driving aspect.