Engine cooling upgrades?

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

I was searching for Ford parts numbers on e-bay and came to a possible cooling upgrade...

Jaguar X-type 2002 to 2009 with a 2.1L V6 (230 hp) had a similar pulley like our one with three mounting holes. It seems larger than our. I cannot say if it's a P/S pulley or from anything else. Sellers don't put the info...


The part # seems to be 1X4E-6A359 DE102158

 

[Johnbigdog]

I've read about replacing a lot of parts. What I didn't read is if this overheating concert is at highway speeds, or at lower speeds.

On the highway there should be enough air to force through the radiator to keep the car cool.

Slow speeds you are relying on the cooling fans. If there is high resistance or bad fans you should be able to verify this in a volt drop test of the cooling fan making sure they are dropping close to source voltage. Please forgive me, I didn't look at the wiring diagrams to see how these cars fans operate.

If your overheating at speed with all new parts, radiator, hoses, pump, t-stat ecetera i would wonder if your temp sensor is biased (electrically or by corrosion). Another point to think about is the block itself. If the block has scale or debris in it from years of use, you might be fighting something like that. External parts may not fix this easily or cheaply.

Ford does recommend a cooling system flush for the 4/5's called VC1. Put the chemical in, run the car per the bottles directions, flush out coolant and fill.

This may help the block exchange heat and keep temps down.

Just a thought, this may have been coverd.

 

[Johnbigdog]

Another thought.

If the coolant moves too fast, it may not have proper time to exchange heat.

Also, has the rad cap been replaced? Pressure and boiling point are related. To little pressure could lead to air forming in the system.

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

Good point, bottle cap can be a prob after 18-22 years of service. Make sure you have the 2010 revision of it. It's black plastic with yellow paint on it (not a sticker). The major difference between them is the spring, 2010+ have a bigger spring into them. I had this prob, the needle will fluctuate mostly between 1/2 and 3/4 even with fans on.

 

[gamefanatic]

Well in my case my Temp sensors have been replaced, radiator and accumulator, reservoir tank and fluid all less than 2 years old. I haven't checked on my fans as of yet, but have thought about that. With between 25-50% coolant. I have two '96 SHO's experiencing nearly the same symptoms. One is a little better than the other, but it's running all OEM equipment minus the coolant and overflow tank.

What I can say is that when the temps are 104-120 and humidity is more than 30% is when I have issues. With A/C on and going up a 25% grade I about 65-75 mph I can watch the temps raise. A/C in the higher range wont even stay on for more than 10 seconds before pressures go out of range, rather sitting still in my driveway or driving through town at fan speeds. Going down the grade I can go any speed I want, no issues...

Conversely, when temps are 105 and humidity is lower almost no issues. One of the reasons I have been slowly working to install better monitoring in the car, to measure the ambient temps as well as inlet and outlet temps of the coolant. I have my arduino setup for the basic monitoring, but have run into a stumbling block that I lost the original connector. May just order another sensor, but not quite ready for that yet. As a side note I plan to add transmission pressure monitors and A/C pressure monitors with this kit.

I am dabbling on the pulley issue. Trying to learn 3D CAD (Fusion 360 / Blender) and plan to do some test designs over the coming months. I have a 3D printer on order from China, hopefully no bad weather for delivery... Of course the temps won't be were I want, until next summer. Our heat waves are over for the most part. So I have some time to work on this in my spare minutes.

Gen 3 Sho Fan: do you know if that Jaguar pulley aligns appropriately with the water pump pulley? That would be the main issue. Drilling new holes would fix any mounting issues.

 

[stephen newberg]

A little physics is getting in here. One of the ways to disperse heat from the radiator is by evaporative cooling. Think of it a sweating. Moisture gets on your skin and when it evaporates, it takes some of the heat of your skin with it. When the level of moisture in the air is higher, the amount of moisture that will evaporate over a given time frame from a surface declines as the air at various temps only wants to hold on to so much water vapour. So, at higher temps and greater humidities, less evaporative cooling over the same time frame. The rad is still working, just not as well as one of its ways of shifting temperatures has been degraded.

pax, smn

 

[gamefanatic]

Yeah, same issue with the A/C condenser at those high temps. I actually took the water reservoir pump and connected it to 3/8" mister hoses connected to the front of the radiator. Then while driving I would hit the windshield wiper button to disperse. This showed improvements, just nothing really sustainable. I doubt it would have helped much when temps were in high humidity situations. It was fitted between the condenser and the radiator to get the water only on the radiator. The tips were a bit large for that gap, I only did this as a test.

One of my goals at this point is to obtain a triple cross-flow radiator, possibly next summer assuming I can find a source. But I first want to get a baseline of the cooling. With the upgraded radiator I may need a larger CAM pulley to stay mechanically engaged vs an electric pump. The pressure required to keep the water flowing at the appropriate speeds will increase with each cross-over.

One thing I have noticed is that there is a 3" gap below the radiator the radiator that is gained when using an aftermarket OEM radiator. This is caused by the lack of the foam that is originally installed. I have rigged up other items to make up this gap, but it definitely makes a difference in cooling capacity.

On other thing that is concerning, is this is still the radiator I had dumped head gasket sealer in. And against my better judgement went with another brand than recommended as the brand I would normally use was out of stock. While the radiator appears to perform about as good as the original, it may be plugged with some of those bits of metal that were included with the sealer. When I pulled my Oil Cooler out I found it plugged up a bit. So I plan to replace the radiator with another OEM style once I'm ready to start my baselines. Once again getting bit in the butt for not using what I know works. BlueDevil sealer is still the best!

 

[stephen newberg]

Sounds like a plan. Best of luck.

pax, smn

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

Hi Gamefanatic,

All the info I was able to obtain are on my post sadly. I made others searches to find additionnals clues but nothing. Best guess is to find one in a scrapyard or ask directly Jaguar forum maybe.

I don't know if you already did this but cleaning the space between the 2 raditators helps a lot too. One of my SLO had a lot of crap stuck there.

At least, you can bore others holes on a duratech 2.5 or 3.0 pulleys. (?)

 

[gamefanatic]

Gen 3 Sho Fan: I haven't made a bit effort as of yet to get to the Junk Yard to look for those pulleys. Drilling the holes likely wouldn't be an issue as much as alignment. Hard to tell, and I haven't had a recent need to get down to the yards to make the day trip worth it...