jayro
SHO Member
So everything is back from the machine shop and I am going to begin assembly on my 3.2 this weekend. Any pointers or tricks of the trade recommendations for a first timer? Thanks
Engine Assembly Pointers
- Thread starter jayro
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Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
So I hear you got a 3 angle grind too eh? lol What all did you have them do down there. I paid around $310 or so for the grind, cleaning, and bringing everything into spec... curious if their prices have floated around. 
Oh.. one thing... take your heads, and drop a bolt in the hole nearest the radiator and alternator... if that makes sence.. the one in that "corner" of the front head was a pain to get my 10mm allen head socket off of. And IIRC I got that set from Lowes, and its their "Kobalt" set.
Other than that... just take your time. Turn the motor by hand a few times once she's all together, just to make sure nothing is bound up or anything... thats really all I can think of.
Oh.. one thing... take your heads, and drop a bolt in the hole nearest the radiator and alternator... if that makes sence.. the one in that "corner" of the front head was a pain to get my 10mm allen head socket off of. And IIRC I got that set from Lowes, and its their "Kobalt" set.
Other than that... just take your time. Turn the motor by hand a few times once she's all together, just to make sure nothing is bound up or anything... thats really all I can think of.
jayro
SHO Member
So I hear you got a 3 angle grind too eh? lol What all did you have them do down there. I paid around $310 or so for the grind, cleaning, and bringing everything into spec... curious if their prices have floated around.
I got the 3 angle, cleaning, new valve seals and new guides. Total was about $500. It was extra ($120) cause they had to do some honing for the guides ect. without the guides it would have been in the 300-350 range. I got my machining done at CJ Racing Engines here in auburn.....didnt you have yours done at CNC? They put all my valves back to specs as well. I think CNC is a little less, but this place is 5 minutes from home and I have a pretty good relationship with them. Cant wait till its back in the car.
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
Oh yea... I've heard good things about CJ too... sounds like their prices are pretty similar too.
And oh yea.. you'll love it when its back in... just angry all the way down the RPM band..
And oh yea.. you'll love it when its back in... just angry all the way down the RPM band..
jayro
SHO Member
Oh yea... I've heard good things about CJ too... sounds like their prices are pretty similar too.
And oh yea.. you'll love it when its back in... just angry all the way down the RPM band..
Yeah. Plan on dropping some more weight off the nose with a FG cowl hood. Should be fun.
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
I was kind of planning on doing the same thing... what color might this hood be? Got someone to paint it around here?
likely everybody has a different opinion, but I use STP for my assembly ****. the stuff is slimy as can be, but it sticks on the metal so that it will stay there until the oil pressure comes up.
make sure you get all the 'directional' parts installed with the right side up or front, as the case may be. better to take your time and do it right once than to have to do it over.
make sure you get all the 'directional' parts installed with the right side up or front, as the case may be. better to take your time and do it right once than to have to do it over.
HotRodKid
mmmmm ... turbo
lay everything out, tap every hole thats threaded ... all of them ... twice. spray them out with wd40 each time.
if your painting the block, mask off the deck / oil pan area, everything up the front across the top and down the back, then finish cleaning out between the exterior webs ... there is still rust in those areas.
clean the oil galleys spotless. anything in the galleys is on the wrong side of the filter and therefor will go straight to the bearings. Hot tanks are NOT clean and on top of that they might have sand blasted the exterior of the block to clean it up
[Alex's first block was hot tanked, shot blasted and painted. i can see shot blast marks where the flare fitting of the oil cooler sits. i know that's not stock. this means shot wound up on the galleys .... no idea if they shot first then tanked or the other way around)
use the paste style assembly ****, it wont run away from the bearings while the engine sits
clean everything twice. bores, inside of the block, everyplace something makes contact.
then take the block to the car wash and power wash it again
plasti-gauge everything twice, if something seams to tight swap some bearings into different spots and try again.
mark every hole after you tap it. mark every bolt after you torque it. remark every bolt when you check the torque again a day later
if your painting the block, mask off the deck / oil pan area, everything up the front across the top and down the back, then finish cleaning out between the exterior webs ... there is still rust in those areas.
clean the oil galleys spotless. anything in the galleys is on the wrong side of the filter and therefor will go straight to the bearings. Hot tanks are NOT clean and on top of that they might have sand blasted the exterior of the block to clean it up
[Alex's first block was hot tanked, shot blasted and painted. i can see shot blast marks where the flare fitting of the oil cooler sits. i know that's not stock. this means shot wound up on the galleys .... no idea if they shot first then tanked or the other way around)
use the paste style assembly ****, it wont run away from the bearings while the engine sits
clean everything twice. bores, inside of the block, everyplace something makes contact.
then take the block to the car wash and power wash it again
plasti-gauge everything twice, if something seams to tight swap some bearings into different spots and try again.
mark every hole after you tap it. mark every bolt after you torque it. remark every bolt when you check the torque again a day later
jayro
SHO Member
Thank you for the pointers. Basically, take my time, double and triple check everything and clean everything again as I assemble it. I have assembly **** from when I installed my cams and did my bearings....I will double check on the brand. I know it was pretty slimey....it is the stuff that came from shonut with the cams.
jayro
SHO Member
The hood is black. I may get it painted at a later date, but for now I will just run it the way it is. I dont think it will look too bad on the car. Blue with black rims, tinted windows and blacked out head/tail lights.
All good advice so far.
I have built quite a few SHO engines over the years.
Here's a tip from me.
Be EXTREMELY careful when installing the pistons into the block. The oil control rings are very thin, and can be bent easily, if the piston ring compressor is not flush with the block.
I have built quite a few SHO engines over the years.
Here's a tip from me.
Be EXTREMELY careful when installing the pistons into the block. The oil control rings are very thin, and can be bent easily, if the piston ring compressor is not flush with the block.
jayro
SHO Member
I appreciate the advise. Will do.
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