ECT Location??? (Update = Fixed)

[gurucomputers]

Based on this pic I pulled here off the forum. Is this the same location for the 91? I have had my head in there sideways, baclwards and upside down and cannot see the @#$% thing.

Also what is the sensor behind the rear head coming off the metal part of the heater hose that looks just like the ECT?

 

[St Louis SHO]

Thats it. That is the crossover between the heads on the drivers side under the TB.

IIRC that other sensor in the metal tube has to do with the EATC.

= James

 

[K-Dawg]

James is correct on both. The sensor is down there, but for some reason it always seems to be blocked by wires and hard to see.

 

[gurucomputers]

Thanks guys.

The IIRC is not pluged cause the plug on the sensor is broken, what is the IIRC sensor for?

 

[K-Dawg]

Um, IIRC stands for "If I Recall Correctly".

The sensor I think you are asking about keeps the heater fan from blowing until the coolant gets warm. Keeps it from blowing cold air when you want hot air.

 

[hawkeye18]

There are three sensors in the area that you're talking about.

The one in the front, under the front head and just forward of where the thermostat meets up with the tube that it sits in, is a little coolant sensor that just has a one-wire pigtail that sticks onto it. This is the temp gauge for your dash cluster, the so-called "idiot gage".

The second sensor is also mounted into the chunk of metal that the T-stat goes into, although it is under the rear head, and difficult to get to. There is a two-wire connector that goes to that one, and it requires a 1" deep-well socket to replace.

The third sensor is located on the steel part of the heater hose going back toward the firewall. This is the CELO, or Cold Engine Lock-Out switch; this prevents the EATC from blowing freezing cold air on you until the coolant warms up sufficiently to heat the air. If this sensor is unplugged then you will not get this feature, which is actually quite handy, as it also serves as a "car's not running so rich any more" sensor.

Also, I now have a new sig quote.

 

[gurucomputers]

Well thats good news, so I don't need to worry about the CELO sensor right now then. The bad news is that the reason the fan won't kick on is due to the fan motor is bad. I took the fan motor out of the shroud assembly and pluged it in to 12v power and nothing.

Will the fan motors from the Gen1 SLO's fit? There are a millioin SLO's in the junk yards here, but rarly see a SHO.

 

[St Louis SHO]

If they use a dual fan, I dont see why not. (you are talking about your ATX right?) If not, then yes.

 

[gurucomputers]

If they use a dual fan, I dont see why not. (you are talking about your ATX right?) If not, then yes.

This is for the 91 MTX that I recently picked up that needs some TLC.

 

[Devin]

The SLO fans are different. It sucks too because the SHO fans are like $100 or more and the SLO fans are around $40.

 

[hawkeye18]

Rockauto sells the motors individually, IIRC.

That's "If I Recall Correctly". :laugh_ti:

http://www.rockauto.com

edit: 1800 posts w00t!

 

[gurucomputers]

Rockauto sells the motors individually, IIRC.

That's "If I Recall Correctly". :laugh_ti:

http://www.rockauto.com

edit: 1800 posts w00t!

They do, But OUCH!!! Shucks is $110 for Lifetime and $48 for 1 yr warranty.

Rockautos Price:

 

[hawkeye18]

Ouch.

For that price, you might as well go with the Schucks, or if you're *really* motivated, you can take it to a motor repair shop (alternators, starters, etc.) and have them rewind the motor. I can get an alt done for ~$50-60, and it's usually a much higher quality job than the $48 (maybe) rebuilt model.

Edit: I was looking at this post from work the first time I posted, and couldn't see that you had a picture to go with your post. So... sorry about that but yeah, you're right. That's where the ECT is. Don't forget teflon tape and a 1" socket.

 

[K-Dawg]

Contact SHOSource or somebody else out there that sells used SHO parts...

 

[gurucomputers]

Well it is fixed. :woo-hoo:

I found a couple of two speed fans at the local Pull-A-Part and snagged them both. Got it all put back together and works great.

Thanks guys for all your help.