E-brake question

[masho95]

Just a quick question on how the e-brake works. Recently my e-brake has not been releasing, almost at all. You would have to manually pry the spring and cable back out to release. Does the e-brake rely on the slider pins moving to get it to release? The reason I'm asking is because I found that side of the rear brakes the slider pins were completely frozen up. There pretty much nothing left of the inner brake pad and the rotor was toast. So I brought all the new parts for that side and was going to change out all the pads in the rear. Just curious if fixing the sliding pins would also fix the e-brake. Thanks if any of you know. If not perhaps the e-brake is just binding up inside itself.

 

[oh_SHO]

If you have to pry the release up then the e-brake cables are bad. If you have to replace one you might as well replace the other cause its not far behind in being froze up.

 

[masho95]

Just pushing down on the spring with the ebrake released the cable stays in place like it should. But after letting the pressure off on the spring it won't return to the full out position. I'm thinking the spring pivot point or something is kinda gunked up. Anyone agree?

 

[jessemachone]

pins

I know from experience that the slider pins wear and will become cocked in the bores that they slide in. It is possible to replace the sliders but if I were you I would to the cables too. SHONUT carries the slider pins. I was thinking of having mine chromed to provide an ultra smoothe surface.

 

[masho95]

Ok I replaced the slider pins and boots. In order to turn the caliper piston in I opened the bleeder screw and they turned in like butter. So everything went back together fine. Then came time to bleed that caliper. No brake fluid came out at all. I played with the rear proportioning valve pushing it up and down and still no fluid would come out. So I disconnected the brake line itself from the caliper. No fluid came out. So either something is going on with the proportioning valve or the brake line collapsed and is blocking all the fluid. So I buttoned it up and let the car down. Decided to take a look at the other rear side (right) since I had the pads for it anyways. The inside of that rotor has multiple grooves in it and they are semi-deep. Couldn't really tell how much pad was left on the inside but I wouldn't doubt that it's down to the rivets like the left side was. So I opened the bleeder screw on that side and tried to get some fluid out... nothing. What the f. No I'm thinking either BOTH brake lines has collapsed and no fluid is coming out, or there is something funky going on with the rear proportioning valve.

Anyone have any ideas on what I should check out next??

 

[SHOZ123]

There are few thing more aggravating than trying to track down rear brake problems.

Sounds like you need new hoses.

If anyone has rear brake issues the best course of action on a car with OEM hardware is rebuilt calipers and new pins from AutoZone, new brake hoses and e-brake cables from Rock Auto. Do it once and be done with it.

 

[oh_SHO]

Remember that there must be pressure on the rear suspension before fluid will flow.

 

[masho95]

Well I found the problem causing NO fluid flow to the left rear (and probably the right as well). The rubber brake line must have collapsed preventing all fluid from getting to that caliper. So I'm going to go buy new brake hoses for the rear tomorrow. Might as well change the right side as well since I'm sure it's not far behind the left one, if it isn't already starting to fail. Thanks for the all the feedback.

 

[Ace]

you def have issues with the rear hoses...replace them be done with it...as far as the ebrake is concerned when the cable is actuated what it does is the lever actually helps push the piston in tighter to the rotor...this does not invlove the sliders...the lever pushes the piston which pushed the pad closer to the rotor and makes it so tight the wheel in turn will not move...cable can be a pain to do,i personally would just do them all at once its not that expensive,i just did mine front to back last weekend took me about 60 to 90 min..to do it...if you get stuck and its not a bad ride for you bring the car over and ill give you a hand...

 

[jessemachone]

the sliders move any time you actuate the park brake. worn ones get cocked and lock. I can give you a demo if you want. SOLUTION - don't use the the park brake or the brakes in general LOL!!!

 

[oxrox]

My rear brakes are groaning and singing like a cat is stuck in there...it has been getting worse over the last year...it happens before but mostly after braking, especially if I am easy on the brakes (which makes me think the brakes are slow to release)...Will new slider pins fix this problem? or am I looking at new wheel bearings (which seem to be okay when I manually spin the tires on a hoist).

Ryan
95 ATX
85k