Dropping oil pan

[1993MTXSHO]

Hey guys I was going to drop my oil pan becasue my 93 mtx is burnign liek 4 qts of oil every 3k. I just want to make sure its clean but is the oil pan gasket reusable or will i need a new one?

 

[SLoW_SHO_316]

You *should* be able to re-use the end seals, but you'll need to clean off all the old RTV and then use some new black RTV to seal it back up.

My question would be, if you're burning oil, why would you want to inspect under the oil pan? Sounds more like a piston rings/valve seals thing.

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

You *should* be able to re-use the end seals, but you'll need to clean off all the old RTV and then use some new black RTV to seal it back up.

My question would be, if you're burning oil, why would you want to inspect under the oil pan? Sounds more like a piston rings/valve seals thing.

Get the new gaskets from AZ for 16 bucks....if what you have is leaking badly, then they are probably dried and cracked. As slowsho said, you could probably reuse them, but for all the headaches getting the old ones off, you are better off spending a little money now to save time. Understand that you will have to remove the y-pipe to get the pan off....this is a PITA and cant turn into even more of a PITA if you break a stud. Consider also doing the rod bearings while you have the pan off....not a big deal while you are in there.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

aahh I just had my y-pipe off o well maybe ill leave it then. Anyone ever tried anyof that restore stuff in these cars? That stuff thats soposed to restore compression or is that like pouring rubber cement into my engine?

 

[pjtoledo]

If your oil filter is working properly that restore stuff isn't going to go very far. What oil are you using? Synthetic oils can blow thru a worn engine real fast. Try a heavier weight regular based oil, you may see a big difference in consumption. For hi mileage engines I use 15-40 truck oil. Great for the summer, too thick for the winter.

Perry

 

[1993MTXSHO]

im using 5-30

 

[LeddZepp8687]

Im leaking some oil, But it doesnt seem like alot, However I have had to add about maybe 3/4 of a quart of oil over that past 3 months..Im hoping its just caused by the leak and not bad rings or valve seats/seals....

 

[1993MTXSHO]

Im leaking some oil, But it doesnt seem like alot, However I have had to add about maybe 3/4 of a quart of oil over that past 3 months..Im hoping its just caused by the leak and not bad rings or valve seats/seals....

yeha mine definitly burns to much oil I think its the valve seats or seals although i guess my car being raced it whole life could have bad rings too.

 

[Shuey]

Hey guys I was going to drop my oil pan becasue my 93 mtx is burnign liek 4 qts of oil every 3k. I just want to make sure its clean but is the oil pan gasket reusable or will i need a new one?

Make sure the rear valve cover seal is not the cause of the leak, it might be leaking onto the exhaust manifold instead.

 

[Howdy_Doody]

Do oil pan gaskets normally leak? I've got a bad leak on my SHO and the valve cover gaskets look OK. I just find it hard to believe oil pan gaskets start leaking unless the pan has been disturbed. There's very little pressure on the gasket.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

Make sure the rear valve cover seal is not the cause of the leak, it might be leaking onto the exhaust manifold instead.

its not smoking at all from the engine compartment, I think its been this way since I bought the car. You dont notice smoke unless your under WOT but its burning/leaking oil 4 qts to the 3k mile mark, which is a lot to not have visible smoke or a visable leak if you ask me. The car seems really clean on the underside, so im really confused on why its consuming so much oil.

 

[dantheman68]

If your oil filter is working properly that restore stuff isn't going to go very far. What oil are you using? Synthetic oils can blow thru a worn engine real fast. Try a heavier weight regular based oil, you may see a big difference in consumption. For hi mileage engines I use 15-40 truck oil. Great for the summer, too thick for the winter.

Perry

im not sure on that add a thicker oil philosophy... if its a thicker oil, wont the worn rings have a harder time scraping the walls... either way youre gonna burn oil.. although im sure they'res probably a happy-medium that burns the least ammount

 

[shojuan]

If your oil filter is working properly that restore stuff isn't going to go very far. What oil are you using? Synthetic oils can blow thru a worn engine real fast. Try a heavier weight regular based oil, you may see a big difference in consumption. For hi mileage engines I use 15-40 truck oil. Great for the summer, too thick for the winter.

Perry

That Restore stuff actually worked pretty well in my 91 mazda truck. Though that truck had a really low oil pressure problem (needs new main and rod bearings. A lot of 4X4 stuff in the way of the pan makes me lazy) and scored cylinder walls. The truck went half its life with a vacuum hose for the remote freewheel dangling near the ground sucking up tons of dust, dirt, and sand. It spent as much time off road as on as a geotechnical engineer's work truck. Having lost several cylinder heads and having piston seizure the last time a cylinder head went didn't help. Neither did sitting for 2 years with milkshake oil in the pan before I put on a new head. So for that vehicle the Restore worked great. I stopped using Restore when I ran some Auto-RX through to clean things out and the Auto-RX probably cleaned the restore "CSL" stuff out too.

I would be hesitant to try that stuff in a running SHO. Give some Auto-RX a try. It won't fix totally crumbling seals though. My SHO went from about 1 qt per 1000 miles on synthetic blend motorcraft oil to about 1 qt redline synthetic every 200, the balance dripping on a cat. It smelled so bad I replaced the cam seal under the CID without taking apart the front but for the roll dampener even though it would have been easier when I do my front 60k in a few months. The cam seal was an original seal, 17 years and 200,000 miles. The least bit of pressure from my fingers on the inside and it would crack. I put a dozen cracks in it doing that just to see how bad it was. Auto-RX couldn't fix that. After replacing the seal I lost about 1/4 quart of redline 10W30 in 300 miles. Still have the two intake cam seals to go. And then there's the valve stem seals, but for those I think I'll wait until a 3.2.

4 quarts of oil every 3000 miles isn't too bad. Try some auto-rx. And if you end up dropping the pan, replace the gaskets. You want to replace gaskets and seals with new when the opportunity presents itself if you are interested in having the tightest ship.

 

[ohfosho]

very easy solution...move up to using 10W30. just a lil thicker. its cheap and it wont leak or burn quite as fast/much.


oh and throw some lucas additive in there! thats stuff is thick!

 

[DigDeez]

I'm just so not comfortable working with my body under a car. I need to replace the gaskets on my SHO too. It's only leaking on the passenger side though, but may be the culprit of my smoking hood, looking like I'm barbequeing under my hood!

I can't see a cheap exhaust shop charging me more than $65 dollars, well at least one that I know of[hopefully] to drop the y-pipe and install gaskets. That's what I'll be doing next weekend.

 

[pjtoledo]

im not sure on that add a thicker oil philosophy... if its a thicker oil, wont the worn rings have a harder time scraping the walls... either way youre gonna burn oil.. although im sure they'res probably a happy-medium that burns the least ammount

Several years ago when my 92 hit 175,000 miles it was using 1 qt of 10-30 synthetic oil every 800 or so miles. Switching to 15-40 FCI (fleet-commercial-industrial) truck oil the consumption went to 1 qt for 1500 to 1800 miles. I continued using that oil until I parked the SHO with 252,000 miles.

Perry