Doing my 60k... CPS screws?

[SHOhhhhMan!]

I started doing my 60k about 2 hours ago and I'm in the process of trying to remove the CPS. However, I'm having trouble with the phillips screws, so I took a break. Like, I started to try and loosen them, but they started to strip, so I backed off. Is there any trick to getting these things off without destroying them? I think I might replace them with something else with a different head once I put this thing back together, because those screws suck.

 

[Electricat]

This is a common problem, I had it when I did my 60k. I used my angle grinder to just grind the heads off, and then removed the rest of the screws with ViceGrips. The grinder was a bit ******* the sensor, but it was being replaced anyway. Doing this, or something similiar depending on what tools you have acess to, is probably the best option. I replaced them with normal hex head screws, stainless steel to prevent rust. I don't remember what size they are, but I'm sure someone does, or you can just take the stub of the screw to the hardware store to match it up.

 

[Dr. Tweak]

As long as you're careful with them you should be okay. Make sure you're using the correct size driver and pref. use a rachet. That way you can put a lot of pressure on the screw with one hand and turn it with the other.

 

[SHOhhhhMan!]

Well, I tried using some electrical tape and WD-40, but they still stripped, so it looks like tomorrow they're gonna get the Dremel treatment. I'll try making them so I can use a flat-head screwdriver, but if that doesn't work, it looks like I'll have to do it the way Electricat suggested. I'll definitely going to replace them with some hex head screws because if I ever have to do this again, it'll be much easier. In fact, I'm kinda mad because if it weren't for the screws, I'd already be putting the car back together right now, but I'm just gonna call it a night and finish in the morning.

 

[DHMag]

a hand impact driver with the correct phillips driver attached and rapped on once with a 20oz ball pein hammer makes those stubborn screws a breeze.

 

[93nighthawk]

Instead of using a dremmel or cut off wheel, I would buy an easy out #1 screw extractor and use your drill to get them out.

As for replacements. I have no clue, I lost one of my screws to the depths of the car and searched all the auto parts stores and hardware stores and they did not have the correct thread pitch. I ended up getting replacements at an Electric Motor Rebuild shop (Freebie! ) that were in their used bin. After closer examination they look a lot like the screws in the bottom of a vaccuum cleaner.

 

[MeShoHorny]

Here is a little trick for your replacement screws, which was passed on to me by someone else. Use hex of allen head aluminum screws. You will never have this problem for your next 60k

As for getting them out try the Ez-out method, I am not sure you can fit a drill in that location. Maybe a 90 degree would be handy.

 

[Rockledge]

That's funny ...my '94 SHO does not come with phillips head screws for the cam sensor (nor for the crank sensor).

I believe that 5.5 mm hex screws are used for each sensor...

 

[SHOhhhhMan!]

Well, here's an update...

I 0wn3d the screws. I tried using the dremel to make it so I could use a flathead on them, but then they were too weak and I broke them. So, I went to town on the CPS itself with the dremel until it was just a gashed up mess of plastic and then pried it off. So, I was still left with two screws though, but it was nothing the good old 5" locking pliers couldn't handle and I got them right out. So now I need to go find some replacements for them tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully ACE or one of the autoparts stores has some with a hex head I can use this time around.

So, if all goes well tomorrow the SHO should be running by the evening. However, I'm thinking that setting the timing is gonna be a ****** with turning the cam cogs to the right postion. I've already got one lined up, but I have a feeling the other one is gonna suck.

 

[Dr. Tweak]

You got the one on the right, right? Yeah, the one on the left is a pain.

USE GLOVES! Also a socket wrench on one of the cam sprocket bolts can help, I've heard of people using just them to turn the sprocket, but I'd be careful if I were you.

Personally I just use two gloved hands.

 

[Ferendon]

2 gloved hands is the method I found easiest. Just turn it until the dots line up. Be careful though, it lines up mide compression. If you turn it too far it kicks and it'll yank your damn arm off... That's where the leatehr gloves come into play.

 

[Dr. Tweak]

2 gloved hands is the method I found easiest. Just turn it until the dots line up. Be careful though, it lines up mide compression. If you turn it too far it kicks and it'll yank your damn arm off... That's where the leatehr gloves come into play.

Otherwise, it'll take a chunk of your hand with it!

 

[SHOhhhhMan!]

Sounds fun. I can't wait.

 

[autobahnsho]

I ended up putting a chisel on the screw and using flat head screwdriver.

These screws strip easy because they'r stainless steel- I assume to reduce any magnetic interference to the CPS.

And they're METRIC. I found some replacements easy at the Bauhaus (German Home Depot).

Compression playing is fun! Make sure you rotate in the same direction as the engine turns.


---ps about the metric, everything in Germany is metric. kilometers, liters, except mtn bike tires are still 26"! Wheel hubcaps are 15, 16"!!

 

[K-Dawg]

I use a Craftsman strap wrench to turn the cams. It makes it very easy.

Its not the compression that makes them hard to turn. Its the valve springs pushing against the cam lobes that causes the cam to not stay were you want it.