Doin the radiator?

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97V8SHO

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Is taking out the radiator/replacing it and the hoses a hard job, about how much time will this take? I need to do mine very soon because with my car sitting for about 12hrs it develops a good sized wet spot under where the radiator is. So it's back to do more miantinace on the SHO :bonk: .....agian.
 

93SHO'nOFF

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:shakehead The radiator comes out through the bottom of the car,It's not very fun to replace,even when car is on a hoist.It's enough to make you feel like :vomit:. Special Tools needed are trans line quick disconnect tool and a/c gauges.the a/c condensor comes out with radiator.
Last time I replaced one it took a few hours.

But if you're into it here's the procedure from the Service Manual :thumb:
MIke
Removal

CAUTION: Do not mix Standard (green) Coolant with Extended Life Coolant (orange). If mixing occurs, drain engine cooling system and refill with originally equipped coolant type. If this contamination occurs, the service interval of Extended Life Coolant will be reduced from 6 years/150,000 miles to 3 years/30,000 miles.

Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).

Remove battery (10653) as described in Section 14-01.

Remove clip retaining contant control relay module and position module aside.

Remove battery tray (10732) as described in Section 14-01.

Remove radiator cap (8100).

Raise vehicle on hoist as described in Section 00-02.

Remove radiator splash shield.

Drain engine cooling system as described in this section.

Remove the radiator mounting bracket assembly.

Remove lower radiator hose (8286).

Partially lower vehicle.

Remove upper radiator hose (8260).

Remove radiator overflow hose (8075).

Remove upper A/C condenser core retaining bolts.

Remove upper transmission oil cooler tube clips.

Remove lower transmission oil cooler tube (7C410)(EPN=7C410)using 3/8 Inch Fuel Line Disconnect Tool T90T-9550-C.

Raise vehicle on hoist.

Remove lower transmission oil cooler tube clips.

Remove lower transmission oil cooler tube (7C410)(EPN=7C410)using 3/8 Inch Fuel Line Disconnect Tool T90T-9550-C.

Remove transmission oil cooler bracket and position transmission oil cooler aside.

Remove lower A/C condenser core bolts and position A/C condenser core (19712)aside.

Remove radiator support bracket.

Remove radiator (8005).

Installation

Position radiator (8005).

Position radiator support bracket and tighten nuts to 8-12Nm (71-106 lb-in).

Position A/C condenser core (19712)and tighten lower A/C condenser core bolts to 5-7 Nm (45-61 lb-in).

Position transmission oil cooler tube and install transmission oil cooler tube bracket. Tighten nuts to 5-7Nm (45-61 lb-in).

Install lower transmission oil cooler tube (7C410)(EPN=7C410).

Install lower transmission oil cooler tube clips.

Install lower radiator hose (8286).

Install radiator mounting bracket assembly. Tighten bolts to 8-12Nm (71-106 lb-in).

Install radiator splash shield.

Lower vehicle.

Install upper tranmission oil cooler tube (7C410)(EPN=7C410).

Install upper transmission oil cooler tube clips.

Install upper A/C condenser core retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 5-7Nm (45-61 lb-in).

Install radiator overflow hose (8075). Tighten clamps securely.

Install upper radiator hose (8260).

Install battery tray (10732).

Position constant control relay module and clip securely.

Install battery (10653)(EPN=10653).

Connect battery ground cable (14301).

Fill and bleed cooling system as described in this section.

Start engine and inspect for leaks.
 

SHOZ123

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97V8SHO said:
Anybody have a diagram of where all the hoses are ran?

Here is the entire system. Some day i'll color it in.

V8%20Coolant%20flow.gif
 

SHOZ123

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Got a new radiator today from Rock Auto. I think I'll make a screen to put in front of it to trap the stuff that clogs up the fins over time. Something that I can easily remove and clean every spring.
 

SHOZ123

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There are always those who are the hapless victims of circumstances do to community ignorance of unknown issues. You can at least feel good about the knowledge gained and that that knowledge is now out there for people to consider when looking for/at future problems.

A martyr ye be :salute:
 

SHOGrabber

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SHOZ123 said:
There are always those who are the hapless victims of circumstances do to community ignorance of unknown issues. You can at least feel good about the knowledge gained and that that knowledge is now out there for people to consider when looking for/at future problems.

A martyr ye be :salute:
Yea!!! Larry!!! :snicker: Thanks for cookin your engine for all of us!!! :laugh_ti: :dig:
 

97V8SHO

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Should I buy a new one or just have it flushed and everything from a local radiator shop? I know we have stack on plate design so I really don't see how the guy can clean it all the way out, but he says he can. The part that's leaking is some O-ring on the end of it, the radiator guy siad it's very comon with fords. It should only cost around $50 is what he told me, for him to replace the O-ring and everything.
 

SHOWHAT9

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Hapless?? Jeesh Paul. I right now consider myself lucky - I couldve been alone in that freaking desert.
However you are absolutely correct. All the knowledge that has been amassed over on V8SHO came directly as a result of some sort of misfortune.
Guess it was just my turn to contribute.
Now the rod bearing - that's a whole another story that is still unfolding.
BTW New Radiator's can be had for right around $100.00 - I'd check into that before attempting surgery.
 

97V8SHO

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I looked on Rock Auto, they have 4 diff radiator's to choose from. GDI/Transpro for $110, Spectra Premium for $114, AC Delco/with dual overhead cam for $208. I'm assuming that these are all stack on plate and a fit like the stock does. I just don't want to buy something that doesn't fit, work, or cool properly.

Paul, what radiator did you buy from them?
 

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