Do plugs need to be replaced for LMS tune?

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tech10002

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Does anybody know what’s so special about the LMS “precision gapped” spark plugs that makes them worth 100 bucks? Seriously thinking about a tuner now, but it seems a lot cheaper to just buy the tuner for 600 and the tstat for 60 from LMS and get the 3 bar cx2231 for 55 bucks off eBay, and the motorcraft sp534s for 44 for 6, and they are pre gapped.

Do I really need to replace the plugs? Mine is a 2016 with less than 20k on it so the plugs should still be in good shape. Or are the factory plugs not sp534 in a 16?

Sorry if this had been answered before, but I tried to find the answer with a forum search, but I just got even more confused. Lol
 

SHOdded

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You can run them a while and see how the car feels. If the idle is rough, that forbodes issues down the road.

I personally would replace them for simple peace of mind. You are turning your average Joe into a triathlete. Spark plugs are core to that transformation. Stock SP534s are fine. There is always a bit of variability in gapping between the plugs, not to the point they really need to be adjusted tho. Good practice to verify gaps before you put them in. Use the flat blade feeler type gauge to do so.

Always keep a fresh set in the toolbox :) Cheap insurance.
 

tech10002

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You can run them a while and see how the car feels. If the idle is rough, that forbodes issues down the road.

I personally would replace them for simple peace of mind. You are turning your average Joe into a triathlete. Spark plugs are core to that transformation. Stock SP534s are fine. There is always a bit of variability in gapping between the plugs, not to the point they really need to be adjusted tho. Good practice to verify gaps before you put them in. Use the flat blade feeler type gauge to do so.

Always keep a fresh set in the toolbox :) Cheap insurance.

Cool. I’ll just order a set from eBay then and make sure the gaps are good. How often do you guys replace them running a tune? I know you need to service the PTU, trans, and diff a lot more frequently than Ford says even in a stock car. I’ve read a lot of different opinions but every 20k seems reasonable to me for fluids other than oil.

Will the car throw any codes with the 160 degree tstat if you run stock? I do a few 1000 mile trips a year and would like to be able to run 87 octane on the long trips. The 3 bar is easy enough to swap but I don’t really want to be swapping the thermostat every few months.
 

Lostneye

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Cool. I’ll just order a set from eBay then and make sure the gaps are good. How often do you guys replace them running a tune? I know you need to service the PTU, trans, and diff a lot more frequently than Ford says even in a stock car. I’ve read a lot of different opinions but every 20k seems reasonable to me for fluids other than oil.

Will the car throw any codes with the 160 degree tstat if you run stock? I do a few 1000 mile trips a year and would like to be able to run 87 octane on the long trips. The 3 bar is easy enough to swap but I don’t really want to be swapping the thermostat every few months.
IIRC LMS says every year or 20k miles. I recommend getting the magnetic spark plug socket with built in swivel extension. Another member told me about it, best $10 I spent on this car. Also taking the strut tower bar off makes it much easier to get the back bank of plugs.

No issues with the 160 stat here stock or tunes even in winter. I can still get 25mpg while booking it on road trips with the 93 octane 3 bar tune. I wouldn't bother changing the tunes unless you are traveling were finding 93 can be an issue.
 

Johnbigdog

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Cool. I’ll just order a set from eBay then and make sure the gaps are good. How often do you guys replace them running a tune? I know you need to service the PTU, trans, and diff a lot more frequently than Ford says even in a stock car. I’ve read a lot of different opinions but every 20k seems reasonable to me for fluids other than oil.

Will the car throw any codes with the 160 degree tstat if you run stock? I do a few 1000 mile trips a year and would like to be able to run 87 octane on the long trips. The 3 bar is easy enough to swap but I don’t really want to be swapping the thermostat every few months.


Ask LMS for a tune for 87 octane and your modifications. Then no need to swap parts!
 

tech10002

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Got everything ordered. I just ordered off the LMS website and haven’t actually talked to them yet. It ‘s not clear how many tunes you get with the tuner on the website. I’ll definitely get an 87 tune if you can have more than one. Finding 93 isn’t a problem where I travel. It’s just in some places, its a buck more a gallon, and that’s hard to justify lumbering along for 16 hours in the interstate when you don’t need all that power.

Thanks for the help guys. Probably will have more questions once I get everything in. Lol. I haven’t messed with a tuner since 07 when I got my diesel truck. I just ordered that magnetic socket, and now I need to figure out what all I need to buy for the fluid changes.
 

Johnbigdog

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I need to figure out what all I need to buy for the fluid changes.

Make sure you have the fluid before you drain it.

This also goes with putting the fitting on (the corect way) a brake line before you flare it at both ends, and put shrunk wrap on before you make a solder joint.

Happy friday!
 

tech10002

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Make sure you have the fluid before you drain it.

This also goes with putting the fitting on (the corect way) a brake line before you flare it at both ends, and put shrunk wrap on before you make a solder joint.

Happy friday!

Lol. Yeah. That would probably be helpful.

I ordered a suction device with a 59” hose on it to suck the fluid out of the PTU and ordered some royal purple 75w140. I have 19k and change now, so will probably just go ahead and change the PTU for peace of mind and wait a little on the RDU and trans. From what I’ve read, the PTU has a very small fluid volume, and it’s the one that gets nasty the quickest. The wife’s Ecoboost Flex has 40k on, so probably should change hers too. Hers is stock but we plan on keeping it past warranty, so the same maintenance schedule as mine would probably be prudent. I think hers will be easier, though, as I believe there’s a drain plug in the Flexes.
 

Johnbigdog

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Lol. Yeah. That would probably be helpful.

I ordered a suction device with a 59” hose on it to suck the fluid out of the PTU and ordered some royal purple 75w140. I have 19k and change now, so will probably just go ahead and change the PTU for peace of mind and wait a little on the RDU and trans. From what I’ve read, the PTU has a very small fluid volume, and it’s the one that gets nasty the quickest. The wife’s Ecoboost Flex has 40k on, so probably should change hers too. Hers is stock but we plan on keeping it past warranty, so the same maintenance schedule as mine would probably be prudent. I think hers will be easier, though, as I believe there’s a drain plug in the Flexes.


Although never recommended or recalled to be tried. One could use kerosene to help clean out a p.t.u. that has black nasty. Although it is a fuel, the purpose of any diesel fuel is to clean, cool and lubricate. I have used keep to clean the snot off of my motorcycle chain for years and it has not damaged the rubber o rungs, which is why keep is recommended. It is inexpensive too. Low weight means an air gun will likely blow out most of it. Since it is an oil, it shouldn't damage gear ****.

All just thoughts, no testing to prove any of this.
 

tech10002

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Although never recommended or recalled to be tried. One could use kerosene to help clean out a p.t.u. that has black nasty. Although it is a fuel, the purpose of any diesel fuel is to clean, cool and lubricate. I have used keep to clean the snot off of my motorcycle chain for years and it has not damaged the rubber o rungs, which is why keep is recommended. It is inexpensive too. Low weight means an air gun will likely blow out most of it. Since it is an oil, it shouldn't damage gear ****.

All just thoughts, no testing to prove any of this.

Let’s hope I don’t have to resort to kerosene. My guess is mine should still look pretty good with 19k or so on it. Hers will probably be a little darker with more than double that but hopefully not totally black.

How hard is the PTU to remove? Could really clean them up good if you could take it apart and use a solvent like gas that would dissolve everything. I know gas works wonders on CV joints with bad boots to get all the old grease and crap out before you re-grease them and replace the boots.
 

tech10002

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IIRC it holds 3 tunes plus the stock file.


I don't understand this statement.

Wish I could use all the power all the time, but don’t think I could get away with going 150 a third of the way across the country. Lol. Would make for a fast trip though.
 

SHOdded

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Not hard, just time consuming to make sure you have enough space to spread everything out once opened. 2 hrs to remove it from the vehicle book time. Add some time for DIY the first time. Then another couple hours to open up the case and get it cleaned out, I would say. Cleaning and inspecting will take more time than opening it up LOL. Pre-planning the project properly will save headaches later. Take lots of pics along the way. If you don't have a vent extension tube, good time to install one.
Edge ptu apart 1
Edge ptu apart 2
 

tech10002

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Not hard, just time consuming to make sure you have enough space to spread everything out once opened. 2 hrs to remove it from the vehicle book time. Add some time for DIY the first time. Then another couple hours to open up the case and get it cleaned out, I would say. Cleaning and inspecting will take more time than opening it up LOL. Pre-planning the project properly will save headaches later. Take lots of pics along the way. If you don't have a vent extension tube, good time to install one.
View attachment 7669
View attachment 7670

Man, that one has some sludgy black stuff in it, doesn’t it. This would probably be a good thing to do periodically to give it a thorough cleaning, replace gaskets, etc. I’ve done the same thing to transfer cases on trucks. Seems pretty straightforward in the SHO.

There’s a Ford OEM replacement PTU on eBay brand new for $750, so a complete failure wouldn’t be the end of the world like it’s portrayed by many. I have a 6.0 diesel F250. I don’t know how many times people have commented on what pieces of sh*t the 6.0 is. I have well over 100k of hard miles on mine, many towing heavy trailers and loads, and I haven’t had one problem short of a cracked CAC tube. I put head studs, exhaust, and egr delete before I modded it and then kept up with oil, transfer case, diff, and transmission fluid and filter changes. My so called POS 6.0 Powerstroke has been stellar. Even after all these years, it can still make me smile, like last night when I smoked some kid in a ricer trying to get the jump on me at a traffic light. Lol
 

Lostneye

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Wish I could use all the power all the time, but don’t think I could get away with going 150 a third of the way across the country. Lol. Would make for a fast trip though.
I was just messing with yah. Although I don't think you will see a huge difference in your wallet running the tune on a road trip. 93 should net a little better mileage. No tune may keep you out of trouble on the way though. Don't know where you are going but be careful in VA, they don't play around when it comes to speeding.
 

SM105K

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I was just messing with yah. Although I don't think you will see a huge difference in your wallet running the tune on a road trip. 93 should net a little better mileage. No tune may keep you out of trouble on the way though. Don't know where you are going but be careful in VA, they don't play around when it comes to speeding.

There is that one corridor in Southern Virginia that is famous for speed traps.
 

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