Disc Brake tool set

[SHOtimer]

The front brakes arn't too much of a problem to reseat, but the rears (twist in) are a bear. And with several brake jobs coming up (doing it for friends), I am considering this kit.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40732

Does anybody have a kit similar to this? Does it work well?

Will this kit work with both the front style disc brakes and the rear (twist in) style? (I assume it will, but I'm also sure someone else here as tried it and knows.)

Thanx, Doug

 

[shopartsnw]

I have a Harbor Freight kit and have used it a number of times on the twist in calipers. It isn't the greatest, but for the money it is tough to beat.

I would buy it again for sure.

Good luck

- Mike

 

[rlw001]

I have big C clamp that I use. I slowy tighten the clamp a it resets the piston easily.

 

[jelloslug]

I have big C clamp that I use. I slowy tighten the clamp a it resets the piston easily.

That won't work on the back calipers.

Autozone sells/rents a kit for $29.99 that has the correct adapter.

 

[Redline]

That won't work on the back calipers.

Autozone sells/rents a kit for $29.99 that has the correct adapter.

Forgive my ignorance, but how come it won't work? No place for it to hold and pull against?

 

[Rob94]

Forgive my ignorance, but how come it won't work? No place for it to hold and pull against?

The rear caliper pistons MUST be turned in, not pressed. This usually requires a special tool, although some have been able to do it with a pair of needle nose pliers. If you simply press the pistons back in, you'll ruin the caliper and need to replace it.

 

[Shoaz]

There's a little, nearly universal, adapter cube that has the nibs that will fit the rear caliper (at least in GenIIs). They're only around $6 or so and I've seen them everywhere from Sears to Autozone. I have one that I've used for years. They're still a pain (there's just no easy way to reseat the rear piston), but I think it's a more cost effective solution than spending $40+ for something similar.

 

[rlw001]

The rear caliper pistons MUST be turned in, not pressed. This usually requires a special tool, although some have been able to do it with a pair of needle nose pliers. If you simply press the pistons back in, you'll ruin the caliper and need to replace it.

I have done it many times with a large C clamp. I put the screw in the piston and slowly turn it clockwise until the piston has reset. All the while the piston is turning while be pressed. I never had a problem doing this on any of my 3 SHOs.

 

[jelloslug]

The tool set can be "rented" from Autozone. You basically buy it and return it for you money back when your done.

 

[SHO SPD]

I bought my kit, the exact one in the website from HF.. I bought it half off... um it works ok, the pin inside broke, so I had to use a piece of rolled iron, and it has worked since. I use it all the time. not too bad for $20. I would get it, just dont put too much twisting effort on it like I did.

 

[Rob94]

I have done it many times with a large C clamp. I put the screw in the piston and slowly turn it clockwise until the piston has reset. All the while the piston is turning while be pressed. I never had a problem doing this on any of my 3 SHOs.

Interesting. What you are saying is you put the pin of the c clamp into the center of the piston, and it will turn the piston as it pushes it in??

 

[hawkeye18]

I have found that (first) opening the bleeder screw (important!) and then using a pair of vise grips (or rubber-jawed clamping pliers for those scared of mauling the piston) and just rotating it. I can rotate a piston in about 30 seconds all the way back to the bottom. The first time I did it it took me a whole minute, but that was from a pad that had worn down to its metal backing plate (whoops). You'll put marks on the outside circumference of the piston, but that part touches neither pad nor caliper, and as long as you're careful not to grip and tear the dust boot you'll be fine. Trust me, this works like a champ.