DevilsOwn Stage 2 kit install in MDesign CAI space completed!

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First let me say thank you to the crew at Devil’s Own for the support and great deal on the kit and all the Ecoboosters with write ups that provided me the information to take on the install with confidence.

To those considering the upgrade the install is easy not that difficult just time consuming, and I think anyone could do it beydoing your research and following the instruction.

The Devils own kit is made with high quality parts and came with just about everything you need. I really like the connections, simply push them in and your good. The nozzle and holder were really nice low profile. I spent around $20 on some long sheets of shrink wrap for the entire portion of wires going through the firewall and all the connection which were all soldered (did not use the provided T TAPs). One thing I do wish and discussed with DO was making the kit a 3Bar controller setup which would make it all electrical like the Alky kit rather that a manually tapping into boost reference.

Mounting the pump
I used the lower stock air box bracket that sits under the airbox. I removed the stock bump stops and drilled four holes to mount the pump and sprayed a few dabs of Rustoleum gloss black around the holes. This spot is ideal since it will be covered by the airbox should I go back to stock.

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Upload 2017 1 10 19 28 58

Mounting the tank

To do this I fabricated a simple L shaped bracket that slides under the battery and is secured by the notched in the battery box and the weight of the battery itself. I used a poster board to make a template to the design I wanted then cut a flat l of sheet aluminum from Home Depot and cut it using angle grinder and cutting wheel. Used a hand file to deburr the entire piece, primed and painted it flat black opposed to leaving it raw metal.

Mounting the Controller

I mounted the controller in the cigarette lighter compartment for a stealthy in cabin install and ability to monitor the fluid level and pump workload from the cabin. To do this I removed the engine start and trunk button panels and simple removed the eight or so screws along both sides to remove the cup holder and lighter compartment. Note. Power must be applied to move the shifter into drive that makes the removal much easier.

I ran the wires through the compartment up and across under the steering wheel by the ODB port, then through the hole in the fire wall to the lower left of the “blue plastic tab” near the steering column “Thanks BDP”.

I then focused on getting the controller mounted in the compartment to do this I made a template using and index card taped in place. I used a Dremmel tool to make the cut. My suggestion making the cut smaller then you need and use a hand file to remove material to final fitment. Don’t discard the piece you cut out, use it to cover the portion where the lighter used to be. I hot glued the edges on the inside to ensure the controller didn't fall back into the console.



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Nozzle

Standard install removed inlet pipe with noise maker used 11/32 drill bit to drill hole and tapped with 1/8 NPT on the underside. Ran the hose along the front just below the engine shroud along with check valve using nozzle D7 the largest one that came with the kit.

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Upload 2017 1 10 19 28 58

Wiring and boost reference tap

Used fuse 46 “thanks to BDPs write up” for running power using the existing fuse and soldering a small portion of the wire to the fuse and plugging it back in. Used the bolt to the lower right of the battery box and fuse box for chassis ground for controller and low level indicator. I tapped into boost reference under the engine cover below the 3 or 2bar Map Sensor using a Y connector I picked up at advanced auto. “thanks to LMS for the picture they provided”. I then hooked up the remaining cables in accordance with DO instructions and wire loomed the exposed wires.

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Upload 2017 1 10 19 28 59

Tuning
Contacted Torrie who suggested the I run the current file at 15% flow at 8 psi and 100% flow at 12psi to ensure everything is functioning properly and make corrections from there. I was able to run a data log today, didn't feel much different but don’t think you really will till your tuned for it so I am Patiently waiting on a revision.... Hope this Meth use doesn’t become a costly quart a day addiction :evilgrin:

All in all, I feel the install went pretty well for an at home install working with what I had available. Probably need to get back in and wire a loom a few things, thank for reading and let me know what you think.
 

SHOdded

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Nice writeup :thumb: Looks great, the space left by the MDesign is ... not so attractive LOL.
 

bpd1151

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Nice to see another member taking the initiative to venture into the realm of "How-To" Tutorial write ups.

Well written and nicely done.

Glad I had a small part in inspiring your write up.

Enjoy the results day in, day out.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
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Yeah, I didn't like that empty space either but I put it to good use. I will provide some butt dyno results and initial impression of performance improvement as soon as get my hands on a revision. They are calling for snow over the four day weekend so it maybe longer than I would like :(. Damn Colorado, like 60 degrees and 75 mile an hour winds over the last two days followed by snow.
 

SHOdded

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Move to CO Springs already LOL. Plus you dont hsve 93 available right?
 
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Okay, looking for some help!

Trying to get a decent log to Torrie for water/methanol revision and made several attempts today with no success using my SCTx4 and livewire.

Here's the problem every time I go WOT the AFRs for bank 1 flat line @ a value of 1.00.

I have changed out the nozzle to a smaller one with the same results. Could one of the 02 sensors be bad if so which one, no DTCs at this point. Which one would go bad while trying to tune with meth and controls bank 1? Part #?

I have attached a data log to look at. On this run bank one flat lined at 98 while bank 2 fluctuated between 78 and 82. Please provide any insight to correcting the issue. AFR flat line 2
 

SilverSH0

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Nice write up. I'll probably use it for reference sometime this winter. Only thing I would suggest is buying an "Add-a-fuse" for that red wire in your picture. It's a much cleaner way to tap into the fuse box without it looking Jerry rigged.
 
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Thanks, but I thought my Mexican American Engineering looked pretty good. :) Just kidding, I Agree and I have already purchased the mini fuse version off Ebay and will replace it when I comes in. The local parts store only carried the regular size add a circuit, so you may want to purchase one in advance.

Now just need to figure out the 02 sensor/datalogging issue I'm having. Good luck on your install. What kit are you going with? I would have used the prometh 3QT tank if I had to do it again. https://prometh.com/collections/tanks/products/example-product-02?variant=10679958659

Other than that the DO kit is great.
 

SHOdded

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they use the same o2 sensor p/n, no worries.
8F9Z-9F472-H

same p/n for both downstream o2's as well
BA5Z-9G444-A

Lucky you, Bank 1 is the one by the firewall ...

And I would not hesitate to run the log by Torrie, get his input. It certainly LOOKS like a sensor issue.
 
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11's! that's good news.

I have ordered the o2 online to save some money, only Oriley's carried motorcraft sensors and they where pretty proud of it, for the price. So it will be a few days with the holiday.

Just to clarify the bank one sensor is at the rear of the car?
Bank 1 = nearest firewall back of the car
Bank 2 = nearest to radiator front of the car

Is this correct, don't want to complicate things by replacing the wrong one?

Also since its seems to be reading AFR's correctly except under WOT it should be safe to drive here and there without going WOT or hot rodding it, right?
 

SHOdded

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Bank 1 is by the firewall.

Gentle driving, for now, looks OK. But normally the AFRs follow each other very closely, within 1% or so. So take a look at the numbers, see how far apart they are in non-WOT driving.
 
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Update: Replaced the upstream Bank 1 (Firewall) oxygen sensor and all is well.

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Not a difficult task removed the passenger side tire, sprayed the sensor with PB blast, waited a few minutes and used a socket type O2 tool to remove and swapped out with new one. Honestly, pulling the sensor connector off its mounting position on the back side of the engine block was the most difficult part. Access to a lift helped a lot.
 
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Yeah, the lift really helps. Guess I should thank the Fort Carson auto craft center. They have everything you need for your project from paint booths to full overhaul bays even an ASE certified tech on duty should you need assistance.
 
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Update: Second revision in on meth tune by Torrie at Unleashed and the car is really coming alive. Torrie's customer service has been phenomenal as always. I am currently running 50/50 WM coming on at 6psi and full output at 9 psi using a 7gpm nozzle. That being said you can really burn through a 3QT bottle fairly quickly if you are driving aggressively. I found a local source for 5 gallon VP M1 99% methanol for $43 bucks and change, so keeping the gallon jugs I have filled shouldn’t be a problem just have to mix up my own 50/50 blend. Anyway, I hope to have the car dyno’d once the tune is dialed in and will get them posted.
 

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