Victorious_Secret
Member
First let me say thank you to the crew at Devil’s Own for the support and great deal on the kit and all the Ecoboosters with write ups that provided me the information to take on the install with confidence.
To those considering the upgrade the install is easy not that difficult just time consuming, and I think anyone could do it beydoing your research and following the instruction.
The Devils own kit is made with high quality parts and came with just about everything you need. I really like the connections, simply push them in and your good. The nozzle and holder were really nice low profile. I spent around $20 on some long sheets of shrink wrap for the entire portion of wires going through the firewall and all the connection which were all soldered (did not use the provided T TAPs). One thing I do wish and discussed with DO was making the kit a 3Bar controller setup which would make it all electrical like the Alky kit rather that a manually tapping into boost reference.
Mounting the pump
I used the lower stock air box bracket that sits under the airbox. I removed the stock bump stops and drilled four holes to mount the pump and sprayed a few dabs of Rustoleum gloss black around the holes. This spot is ideal since it will be covered by the airbox should I go back to stock.



Mounting the tank
To do this I fabricated a simple L shaped bracket that slides under the battery and is secured by the notched in the battery box and the weight of the battery itself. I used a poster board to make a template to the design I wanted then cut a flat l of sheet aluminum from Home Depot and cut it using angle grinder and cutting wheel. Used a hand file to deburr the entire piece, primed and painted it flat black opposed to leaving it raw metal.
Mounting the Controller
I mounted the controller in the cigarette lighter compartment for a stealthy in cabin install and ability to monitor the fluid level and pump workload from the cabin. To do this I removed the engine start and trunk button panels and simple removed the eight or so screws along both sides to remove the cup holder and lighter compartment. Note. Power must be applied to move the shifter into drive that makes the removal much easier.
I ran the wires through the compartment up and across under the steering wheel by the ODB port, then through the hole in the fire wall to the lower left of the “blue plastic tab” near the steering column “Thanks BDP”.
I then focused on getting the controller mounted in the compartment to do this I made a template using and index card taped in place. I used a Dremmel tool to make the cut. My suggestion making the cut smaller then you need and use a hand file to remove material to final fitment. Don’t discard the piece you cut out, use it to cover the portion where the lighter used to be. I hot glued the edges on the inside to ensure the controller didn't fall back into the console.

Nozzle
Standard install removed inlet pipe with noise maker used 11/32 drill bit to drill hole and tapped with 1/8 NPT on the underside. Ran the hose along the front just below the engine shroud along with check valve using nozzle D7 the largest one that came with the kit.


Wiring and boost reference tap
Used fuse 46 “thanks to BDPs write up” for running power using the existing fuse and soldering a small portion of the wire to the fuse and plugging it back in. Used the bolt to the lower right of the battery box and fuse box for chassis ground for controller and low level indicator. I tapped into boost reference under the engine cover below the 3 or 2bar Map Sensor using a Y connector I picked up at advanced auto. “thanks to LMS for the picture they provided”. I then hooked up the remaining cables in accordance with DO instructions and wire loomed the exposed wires.



Tuning
Contacted Torrie who suggested the I run the current file at 15% flow at 8 psi and 100% flow at 12psi to ensure everything is functioning properly and make corrections from there. I was able to run a data log today, didn't feel much different but don’t think you really will till your tuned for it so I am Patiently waiting on a revision.... Hope this Meth use doesn’t become a costly quart a day addiction
All in all, I feel the install went pretty well for an at home install working with what I had available. Probably need to get back in and wire a loom a few things, thank for reading and let me know what you think.
To those considering the upgrade the install is easy not that difficult just time consuming, and I think anyone could do it beydoing your research and following the instruction.
The Devils own kit is made with high quality parts and came with just about everything you need. I really like the connections, simply push them in and your good. The nozzle and holder were really nice low profile. I spent around $20 on some long sheets of shrink wrap for the entire portion of wires going through the firewall and all the connection which were all soldered (did not use the provided T TAPs). One thing I do wish and discussed with DO was making the kit a 3Bar controller setup which would make it all electrical like the Alky kit rather that a manually tapping into boost reference.
Mounting the pump
I used the lower stock air box bracket that sits under the airbox. I removed the stock bump stops and drilled four holes to mount the pump and sprayed a few dabs of Rustoleum gloss black around the holes. This spot is ideal since it will be covered by the airbox should I go back to stock.



Mounting the tank
To do this I fabricated a simple L shaped bracket that slides under the battery and is secured by the notched in the battery box and the weight of the battery itself. I used a poster board to make a template to the design I wanted then cut a flat l of sheet aluminum from Home Depot and cut it using angle grinder and cutting wheel. Used a hand file to deburr the entire piece, primed and painted it flat black opposed to leaving it raw metal.
Mounting the Controller
I mounted the controller in the cigarette lighter compartment for a stealthy in cabin install and ability to monitor the fluid level and pump workload from the cabin. To do this I removed the engine start and trunk button panels and simple removed the eight or so screws along both sides to remove the cup holder and lighter compartment. Note. Power must be applied to move the shifter into drive that makes the removal much easier.
I ran the wires through the compartment up and across under the steering wheel by the ODB port, then through the hole in the fire wall to the lower left of the “blue plastic tab” near the steering column “Thanks BDP”.
I then focused on getting the controller mounted in the compartment to do this I made a template using and index card taped in place. I used a Dremmel tool to make the cut. My suggestion making the cut smaller then you need and use a hand file to remove material to final fitment. Don’t discard the piece you cut out, use it to cover the portion where the lighter used to be. I hot glued the edges on the inside to ensure the controller didn't fall back into the console.

Nozzle
Standard install removed inlet pipe with noise maker used 11/32 drill bit to drill hole and tapped with 1/8 NPT on the underside. Ran the hose along the front just below the engine shroud along with check valve using nozzle D7 the largest one that came with the kit.


Wiring and boost reference tap
Used fuse 46 “thanks to BDPs write up” for running power using the existing fuse and soldering a small portion of the wire to the fuse and plugging it back in. Used the bolt to the lower right of the battery box and fuse box for chassis ground for controller and low level indicator. I tapped into boost reference under the engine cover below the 3 or 2bar Map Sensor using a Y connector I picked up at advanced auto. “thanks to LMS for the picture they provided”. I then hooked up the remaining cables in accordance with DO instructions and wire loomed the exposed wires.



Tuning
Contacted Torrie who suggested the I run the current file at 15% flow at 8 psi and 100% flow at 12psi to ensure everything is functioning properly and make corrections from there. I was able to run a data log today, didn't feel much different but don’t think you really will till your tuned for it so I am Patiently waiting on a revision.... Hope this Meth use doesn’t become a costly quart a day addiction

All in all, I feel the install went pretty well for an at home install working with what I had available. Probably need to get back in and wire a loom a few things, thank for reading and let me know what you think.
I am running Shell 91 Octane V-Power
