Degreased the INSIDE of my engine

[SHOman24v]

yesterday i changed my oil. but what i did differentely is that i used a product called sea foam combined with ATF. (I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS PROCEDURE). you can get sea foam at your local napa parts store.... this is how it works: dump a quart of ATF in your non changed oil, then start the car, find a vacuum line on the intake and slowly suck in the sea foam. after you suck in about half a bottle you choke the engine out with the sea foam by sucking it in till it dies. once the car dies, turn the key off and let it sit for about 15 mins. after it sits drive it SLOWLY untill the car stops smoking. (it smokes a lot) after about ten to fiften minutes of driving you are ready to change your oil. my engine went from running rough to virtually smooth just my 0.02

 

[MOSHO92]

Iv'e heard of part that procedure to clean the intake manifold, But I dont think that I will be putting ATF in my oil. nono

<small>[ February 01, 2004, 01:14 PM: Message edited by: MOSHO92 ]</small>

 

[AutoSHO]

Don't ever do that again...

ATF in your oil + driving around = Major bearing wear.

 

[HopefulSHO]

Be careful sucking that SeaFoam into your engine. If you suck too much at once you can hydro-lock your engine. Not good.

 

[MotoArts]

I would also change the oil and filter SEVERAL times in a VERY short time period after that. The floaters and debris that were dislodged can bypass a clogged filter and circulate through the oiling system again. At best it will clog the oil pump pickup or score any/all contact surfaces (oil pump/bearings/cylinder walls, etc.).

Baaad move, IMHO.

 

[BenBrausen]

Those instructions you used are supose to be used on carburated engines. I would never put ATF in my oil. They don't even mix together, they stay seperate. I wouldn't use SeaFoam for intake cleaning, I'd use the 3M Intake cleaner. Also, never use SeaFoam in your oil unless all your engine seals are new. It will really clean your system out and if you have any seals that are a lil old, they'll start to leak. SeaForm works great in the gas tank every 10K miles to clean the injectors and it's been the same formula for almost 100 years. Just don't use it too often as it may foul your injectors.

<small>[ February 01, 2004, 06:43 PM: Message edited by: BenBrausen ]</small>

 

[SHOtimer]

My friend has done something similar with the ATF. He will change his oil then buy 4 quarts of oil and one quart of ATF (his car holds 5 quarts). He will fill it up with oil and one quart of ATF. Then let it idle for 15 min (he will not drive it). He will then change the oil again, it comes out so wicked dirty it is amazing! He does this about once a year to clean out the inside of his motor. He says ATF has a cleasing properties and will clena out the inside of the motor, but it isn't very good at **** so he will only idle his car as to not harm the bearings. Also, he fills it up to full capacity so the engine is not overfilled as that can cause another pluthera of problems. I have not tried this in my SHO because I've seen inside my motor and from regular oil changes it is clean. It also IMO isn't a very good idea. But, he has done it and had great results.

Doug

 

[SHOman24v]

asked a buddy about what everyone says, heres what he had to say... that is funny that you guys would say that it is such a bad idea considering many ford and chevy technicians of many years highly recomend this procedure to keep the engine clean and running how it should, and no offenese but im sure they know more than you guys, and the atf being put in the oil is pretty much a detergent to clean the engine it does the exact same thing as if you where to buy a product meant to go into the oil, the atf doesn't break down the oil it just increases the detergent level to clean the engine out.

 

[Off Road SHO]

This is a very old trick used by mechanics since the dawn of time ( I was there). It's the same as "Top Oil" that everyone sells. It WILL clean out your engine. It's a great disolver. I used it as a last resort to try and eliminate the bad knock I had in The Other Womans first engine.

Oil in engine was super clean before the pint of ATX fluid ( I change the oil after every trip or two) and very black after I added it. It works. Won't hurt your engine in small doses of a pint or less.

Tom

 

[SHOman24v]

THANK YOU off road sho

 

[AutoSHO]

I maintain that driving with the ATF in the crankcase was a very BAD idea. Idling is one thing. Putting a load on the bearings is another thing entirely. Diluting the oil with ATF reduces its ability to lubricate. While it does a good job of cleaning I would never drive with it in the crankcase. You're risking some pretty severe bearing damage.

 

[wood_e]

Yeah driving with it in is BAD....

Idleing is probably not going to do too much harm

 

[Dr. Tweak]

There is this stuff at Bond Auto that this guy showed me, he said you drain all your oil, put this in, and let it idle for 5 minutes. Supposedly it cleans out your engine good. He said it is almost like deisel fuel...?

I'm afraid to try it, anyone ever use a similar thing?

 

[Mike Kopstain]

You guys would be surprised at how similar ATX fluid is to Slick 50, Z max, and other oil additives.

I'm not saying I'd put those products in my car, but people do and not only do their motors not explode, but they claim that it makes them cleaner.

 

[Off Road SHO]

JDLangevin:
There is this stuff at Bond Auto that this guy showed me, he said you drain all your oil, put this in, and let it idle for 5 minutes. Supposedly it cleans out your engine good. He said it is almost like deisel fuel...?

I'm afraid to try it, anyone ever use a similar thing?

Jd,

Back in the old days of small blocks and big gaps, we used diesel fuel to clean out really clogged engines. You old timers will know what I'm talking about when I say really clogged.

The push rod valley underneath the intake would have this thick black crud all over everything; the inside of the valve covers would be coated about a quarter inch thick also. Usually one or more of the push rod oil passages would be blocked or a lifter would be blocked.

We would use diesel fuel as a flush. Buy a ton of cheap oil and half a dozen filters. Drain old oil, put in new filter and fill up with diesel. Idle for 5, drain out black syrup and repeat.

By about the fourth cycle the diesel would start to come out more clear but still dark. Then we would switch to the cheap oil and do 2 more cycles, each time with a new filter.

WARNING! DO NOT USE THE DIESEL OR KEROSENE FLUSH ON MODERN DAY MOTORS WITH THE TIGHT BEARING CLEARANCES. THIS IS FOR OLD STYLE MOTORS.

I agree with AUTOSHO in that I would not put a load on the engine while doing the ATX additive thing though. And I wouldn't use more than a pint per pan full of oil.

Just my .023841298 cents worth. What the heck, I just wanted to be exact. wink

Tom

<small>[ February 02, 2004, 08:53 AM: Message edited by: Off Road SHO ]</small>

 

[Dr. Tweak]

This isn't acually deisel, he just said it has a similar consistancy to it... shrug

 

[SHOZ123]

I think someone already mentioned it but Auto-RX does the job throughly and safely. Not a fast way but if it were fast you would be giving up the safety part of it.

 

[Bizzy]

SHOZ123:
I think someone already mentioned it but Auto-RX does the job throughly and safely. Not a fast way but if it were fast you would be giving up the safety part of it.

What he said. I love Auto-Rx. You all should have seen how clean it made my PS system. even after 2 flushes I added 2-3oz of Auto-RX, my fluid was dark again in a week. Flushed one more time, and my fluid is bright red still after 25k miles.

Same happend for my engines, both SHO and SLO. My SHO when purchased had seen a life of Quakerstate oil and 5k mile changes. The valve covers were
dark from the varnish. Afterabout 1000-1500 miles of driving with the Auto-Rx in there my engine was scrubbed clean like this

for whats its worth though I have heard of and used the ATF method too. It makes for a good quick/cheap flush that isn't gonna damage seals like the "5 minute motoer tuneup" crap. I've done the seafoam proceedure too, but that was more of a top cylinder decarbon thing than anything else.

 

[DHMag]

the diesel method Tom spoke of is what im used to doing. on my dads 56 Dodge, we thought it had a stuck lifter, so we drained the crankcase, added 3 gallons of diesel fuel, started it and let it run at idle for 6 hours (ran outta gas), let it sit overnight, and drained the diesel. sieved the diesel and readded to crankcase (and put fuel in the tank). total idle time was 12 hours and the lifter noise was still there :|. (ended up being a leaky lifter).

just last weekend we tore it apart, finding the crud like Tom described on the inside of the valve covers, and all over the valley and cover. but, that crud is due to a poor crankcase vent system. PCV is modern day, in 56, draft tubes were used.

an old school way of cleaning the intake system = engine running and a coffee can of water (poured into the carb)

im WAY off topic here, but on topic, i dont see anything wrong with adding ATF to the crankcase as long as its left to idle.

 

[SolidState]

so, what I am thinking is:

to put some seafoam in the gas tank

to put some AutoRX in the current motoroil and then change the oil 1000-1500miles down the road

to flush the PS system a couple times, ad AutoRX for a while, then flush again?

Best thing to do?