Dead SHO! Help!

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Sleeper

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My Sho started to miss and run bad over about a half mile. I pulled into the gas station and it stalled. I couldn't restart it. It would fire a little bit, but it wouldn't get enough RPM's to run. Using the pedal just made it not want to turn over. I'd been driving for about 3 miles with no problems before the trouble began.

The same thing happened last week, and it needed to be towed. Once it got to my house, We started it with no trouble and pulled it into a parking spot.

It's at the gas station now, and I'm hoping that it will start when I go to get it, and be able to make it home. What could be causing this? Hopefully it's something obvious. I can hear the fuel pump when i turn the key on, it was replaced last fall. The plugs and wires probably have 20,000mi on them.
 

RStalveyARFF

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First off, you'll have better luck posting this in the appropriate section. Posting this in the performance section probably won't get you that many answers. Using the gas pedal on a fuel inhjected car is pointless, UNLESS it is flooded. Flooring the pedal while starting an FI car shuts off the injectors. Does the tach move while you try starting the car?
 

PAracer

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Any codes?

Do you have any leaks? Oil or coolant.

My guess at this point is either a CPS or cam sensor failure. It might just be because my CPS went out last wednesday, but still my guess.
 

shospeed143

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I would pull codes and go from there.

But about what you said about the car missing before it died then it might be the ingition control module.
 

SonicRiot

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PIP, CPS, DIS, or coil packs.

When the DIS or coil pack is going bad, heat will make it malfunction.

SHO Phoenix Project

Use the ignition diagnostic procedure. It works really well.
 

Sleeper

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The tach functions perfectly. No leaks. I went to get it yesterday, and I drove it home without any problems. Where can I get codes read for cheap?? I know that autozone will pull them IF the CE light is on.

What is the ignition diagnostic procedure? Does the fact that it starts up and runs well once it cools off rule anything out?
 

windsormw

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shotimes .com has it all

From experince , that site is very help full . It will SHO too read ur CEL codes . If the self test procidure is workin correctly on ur sho , one chunck of wire is all u will need .

there a are three or four tests that i no of . Engine off test ( ignition on ) :thumb: engine on test , and a test for checkin cylinders ( balance i think )
[

URL=http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=83
 

SonicRiot

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MidwestSHO has the codes. Obtain them through flash codes.
 

Sleeper

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Well, it's showing a code 81: IAS circuit failure. What an IAS? Is this contributing to my problem?
 

Sleeper

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I read up on the IAS a little, and it doesn't really sound like my problem. She never kills when I drop it out of gear. It gets hot, starts to miss, and dies within a minute or so. Once it cools off, it starts and runs perfectly. Somebody must know what's causing my trouble!
 

Sleeper

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So now it's showing the PIP code. Before I tear into the cks, would it be worth my time to swap coil packs or whatever the DIS is? It still starts great when cold and runs flawlessly until it gets up to temp. starts missing, stalls and won't restart.
 

Devin

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It could be the fuel pump. My 87 SLO had an issue where the car would not start if it was warm. It would crank over in less than a second if it was cold, but you had to let the car cool down to make it start. It was the fuel pump because when they changed it I could actually hear it and the car started fine no matter what the temperature.


The part that I don't understand is why the car would not start if the engine was warm. Why would that do anything to the fuel pump?
 

Sleeper

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I just swapped the coils and the DIS. No effect. I did notice that I was mistaken, and the tach starts jumping as the missing begins. I assume that the cks is the culprit. Has anyone experienced one that was only trouble when the motor was warm?
 

Redline

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Try replacing the CID. I was having intermittent problems with bucking, stalling, starting, and no tach sometimes. When it would die it would refuse to start, but after about 5 or 10 minutes it would usually start up fine. I replaced the cam sensor and its worked fine ever since! Only about $30 at shucks.
 

Sleeper

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I just swapped the cam sensor, no effect. I got the crank sensor from advanced auto for $57. Hopefully I can get around to installing it tomorrow
 

SonicRiot

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$57? Wow, that's cheap! Is it an off brand?

When my PIP went, the car would stall, randomly and not start right back up. 5, 10 minutes, sometimes and hour later, the car would fire like nothing ever happened. It never happened when the car was cold.

It makes sense; heat increases resistance in electrical components.

I was suprised mine worked at all. The wires had been chewed by a mouse before I bought the car. No wonder it stalled for 8 months randomly. It go so bad that it was happeneing every time I hit the highway and I had to park the car and begine diagnosis.

Like I said, Phoenix Project has a great step by step diagnosis of the ignition system. I pinpointed my problem in under 10 minutes when I saw that PIP voltage was not to spec.
 

Rockledge

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Sleeper, you need to pull the codes: http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm
SonicRiot said:
Like I said, Phoenix Project has a great step by step diagnosis of the ignition system. I pinpointed my problem in under 10 minutes when I saw that PIP voltage was not to spec.
Chris, I looked on the SHOPP site and can't find anything regarding an ignition system test. Where on the site is it?

FWIW, there was recently a pretty good thread on SHO ignition system diagnostics:

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=43436
 

SonicRiot

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Sorry, that's the one I was thinking of... rangerj's. I could have sworn it was posted on SHOPP, though.
 

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