Damn rear brakes again - what's left to replace? I can't take it anymore!!!!

[DJ SHO]

This is ******* me off to no end. Absolutley everything has been replaced with new parts in the rear brakes: calipers, pads, slider pins/brackets, rotors, rubber hoses. The entire system has been flushed, and re-bled correctly. Ebrake cables are functioning properly and not sticking on either wheel.

The RR is messed up still. It's either the entire loaded caliper set is crap (from NAPA), or perhaps the stupid brake bias valve is messed up? The RR caliper, bracket, and rotor are all rusted to ****. The LR is no where near as bad. I just did all the work 3 weekends ago. The RR sounds like it's getting rust particles or brake dust in between the pads/rotor. Everything is fine if it's raining out, meaning good firm pedal and no brake dust squeal. I think the caliper isn't releasing all the way. I know it's not the ebrake cables because it was doing this before I hooked them back up. It's not releasing just enough to wear on the pad I think. It's not hot or anything.

Am I right in saying it's either one of two things: Either the caliper/pad set is just crap to begin with (and I should go back to NAPA and demand better parts ), or the damn bias valve is not working correctly?

Thanks in advance. Hopefully I don't have to **** my SHO this week.

 

[drdave]

My right rear wheel has had the same problem for a couple of years. Can't wait to see what the recommendations are.

 

[Bruce]

Well guys, the right rear has the longest e-brake cable and that was my problem two years ago. Jack up the back end take off both wheels, put the e-brake on and then release it. Then take a big screwdriver and see if you can pull the e-brake cable out farther that the position it was in after releasing the e-brake. If you can, then the cable is too stiff to release. The area on mine seemed to be in the vicinity of the clamp in the middle. I replaced the right side e-brake cable, lubed the bejeesus out of the left one and all is well.

It's worth a shot I would think?

Good luck!

 

[drdave]

With my e-brake released, the butt end of the cable doesn't touch my caliper. It slides out about 1/4 inch, so we can scratch that as being my problem.

 

[DJ SHO]

Both of my cables are fine. I thought the driver's side one was hung up, but stupid me didn't realize that it's supposed to have more tension than the passenger side because it needs to be hooked up for both to work.

Plus like I stated, this problem was happening BEFORE I re-installed the ebrake cables to either side, for like a week.

 

[JaySHOguy]

drdave:
With my e-brake released, the butt end of the cable doesn't touch my caliper. It slides out about 1/4 inch, so we can scratch that as being my problem.

Then I would point my finger at the caliper in your case. My e-brakes were JUNK. I replaced them all, and then found out that the calipers are junk too. Yes, I tested first before I replaced the cables. Too damn expensive to just throw parts at it

DJSHO: If that is the case, couldn't you get one of the Rear-brake bias valve plug kits? Install it, and see if the problem still exists?

<small>[ June 09, 2003, 12:34 PM: Message edited by: JaySHOguy ]</small>

 

[MilTownSHO]

drdave:
My right rear wheel has had the same problem for a couple of years. Can't wait to see what the recommendations are.

Me 2 but only for about a month cause that's how long I've had the car. I'm replacing the caliper because the brakes are worn alot more on that side and I believe it is sticking. Hopefully this will fix the problem. Can't be the E-brakes cause mine is unhooked for custom kick panels the owner before installed.

 

[SHOvit]

I've got similiar problems here, I've replaced everything except the e-brake cables. I don't use the e-brake since I have an ATX so can the cables still cause problems??? I'm getting glazing on the pads and a lot more dust than the front, and I'm going through rear pads twice as fast as the front. They can't be hanging up too much or I would notice it when driving, it seems like my calipers just aren't releasing fully. Also, my proportioning valve rod, the one that's supposed to do something to the valve is loose as **** even with the suspension fully compressed, any suggestions on where to turn next??? headbang

 

[Don89SHO]

If you're sure its not the Ebrake and the calipers (did you check the slider pins?), and the brake hoses (collapse on the inside), then it is the porportioning valve. Brakes are slow frustrating process of parts replacemnt elimination. headbang I just did the same thing.

 

[PAracer]

Do you put a beveled edge on the leading edge of your brake pad? This seems to stop most squealing for me.

 

[SHOvit]

I did bevel the edge of the pads this last time, it's been a week so far and there's no sqealing, yet. I'm still concerned about how fast I'm going through pads, I can't remember what kind of pads I got last time, maybe they're just cheap and wear faster than a quality set, I've read about Performace Friction Carbon Metallic pads here on the forum, do they have these for the rears???

 

[adidasho]

I have a similar problem, which has sort of been answered but I'm still not sure. My right rear didn't work, and it was a bad caliper, so I got a new caliper, and it worked fine. now neither the brake or the ebrake is working on the RR back...is it the caliper?

 

[dkal]

SHOvit:
I did bevel the edge of the pads this last time, it's been a week so far and there's no sqealing, yet. I'm still concerned about how fast I'm going through pads, I can't remember what kind of pads I got last time, maybe they're just cheap and wear faster than a quality set, I've read about Performace Friction Carbon Metallic pads here on the forum, do they have these for the rears???

I've just purchased the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic Pads for my rears, and got them from Advance Auto Parts

 

[jjlabinski]

DJ SHO:
This is ******* me off to no end. Absolutley everything has been replaced with new parts in the rear brakes: calipers, pads, slider pins/brackets, rotors, rubber hoses. The entire system has been flushed, and re-bled correctly. Ebrake cables are functioning properly and not sticking on either wheel.

The RR is messed up still. It's either the entire loaded caliper set is crap (from NAPA), or perhaps the stupid brake bias valve is messed up? The RR caliper, bracket, and rotor are all rusted to ****. The LR is no where near as bad. I just did all the work 3 weekends ago. The RR sounds like it's getting rust particles or brake dust in between the pads/rotor. Everything is fine if it's raining out, meaning good firm pedal and no brake dust squeal. I think the caliper isn't releasing all the way. I know it's not the ebrake cables because it was doing this before I hooked them back up. It's not releasing just enough to wear on the pad I think. It's not hot or anything.

Am I right in saying it's either one of two things: Either the caliper/pad set is just crap to begin with (and I should go back to NAPA and demand better parts ), or the damn bias valve is not working correctly?

Thanks in advance. Hopefully I don't have to **** my SHO this week.

 

[SHODWN]

HAve you guys checked your wheels bearings?