Cylinder L:ock / Ignition Switch

[Marccus]

I had to remove the ignition cylinder a key that broke off inside.

When I put everything back, the "chime" comes on all the time when the door is open even when the key is not in the cyinder or when the key is in any position in the ignition.

Also, I must twist the key VERY hard at the end of its stop point for the engine to start.

Last time I put in a new cylinder, I had to adjust something.

any ideas?

 

[pjtoledo]

The key chime wire hooks directly to the cylinder/housing. Small black wire if I recall correctly. What year SHO? Not sure if all the steering columns are the same. You may have the switch and its actuating rack a bit out of sync. I have a columns from an 89 and 93 ATX that I could look at for detailed info.

Perry

<small>[ September 02, 2003, 11:14 PM: Message edited by: pjtoledo ]</small>

 

[masho95]

Also the key chime is on or off whether the key is in the ignition. This is obtained by the small rectangular black plastic piece on the side of the lock cylinder. When the key is inserted it pushes up on a tab which has a metal piece attached to it and contacts another metal piece, which essentially closes the circuit and starts the chime. It works like a morse code transponder, that's what it reminds me of. Just changing out the lock cylinder shouldn't have caused a hard key turn problem. There isn't much beyond the cylinder itself that would cause a hard turn. The ignition switch itself is what causes the resistance when starting the car, theres a spring in the switch which causes the key to turn back after pushing it forward.

 

[Marccus]

Car is an '89 SHO, 275,000 mi. Just oil change and 60K's although I think she's going to need a valve job and the rings / pistons may need to be done - I need to do a compression test.

OK, I understand the mechanism for the chime and how it works.

I remember that that black tab with the contact on the end bent eek! up when it jammed as I pushed the cylinder lock into the other cylinder, before installing the assembly into the column.

I then bent the tab downward - but I may have forced it down to much as it then will contact that little grey/black metal piece (that comes up and makes contact with the tab when the key is in the cylinder) all the time even when the key is not in.

Looks like I messed up.

I'll remove the cylinder and try to fix it.

But I still need to solve the problem that the key/cylnder must be forced very hard at the end of the stop position before the switch will start the engine.

If I leave it this way, I'll just break another key in the cylinder.

BTW - who designed these keys in Ford.

My ignition key is cut symmetrically from the top and bottom (I guess like everyone's) so that the key can be inserted into the cylinder either way. But at one point the cut key blank necks down to 1/8" because of the deep cuts from the top and bottom. This minimum "width" point on the key is just at the point where the key stops entering the cylinder. rant

So guess what - the weakest point on the key will be subject to the maximum torque / moment / twisting force from my fingers as I turn the key. headbang

Thus the key will easily break at this point.

Who's the ***** at Ford that designed a key cut such with so much metal removed that the width is ridiculously small?

If they just cut the jey from on side (thus not giving as much flexibility in inserting the key) the key would be much stronger. headbang

Also, what happened to the "wings" on the cylinder lock which you could turn with your fingers thus not putting ANY pressure on the key - your fingers turn the "wings" and are not on the key.?

That's how I remember the older cars.

Why do they make things worse instead of better?!!

 

[AutoSHO]

Marccus:

Also, what happened to the "wings" on the cylinder lock which you could turn with your fingers thus not putting ANY pressure on the key - your fingers turn the "wings" and are not on the key.?

That's how I remember the older cars.

Why do they make things worse instead of better?!!

Every SHO I've driven has them? shrug

 

[masho95]

Well if you pull the ignition switch you'll be able to tell if that's the problem. Either it's that or the ignition cylinder that's causing the hard turn problem. Nothing else in line is likely to cause such a hard turn to make the key break. If you remove the lower kick panel you can get to the ignition switch easily. The switch itself it held in place by 2 torx bolts and the electrical connector is held in by a hex bolt. Pull the switch out and see how hard it is to move the switch forward.

 

[Marccus]

OK. I've accessed the ignition switch before by the lower panel. I'll remove it and give it a try like you recommended.

Most likely I need a new switch.

BTW, the switch has one security torx bolt which is a PAIN IN THE ASS headbang to remove if you don't have a security bit!

First time, I didn't have the bit and I drilled the little bastard out!

NOW I have a full set of torx security bits (a little too late, but hey ...)

 

[masho95]

Unless the torx bolts have been removed and replaced before both AREN'T security bolts. They are both normal torx bit bolts.