elarm1
Maryland Native
I didn't see a sticky on it. Anyone got any pointers?
Cylinder head removal
- Thread starter elarm1
- Start date
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You'll need at least:
13mm 12mm, 10mm, 15mm sockets and wrenches
Various 3/8in extensions
The head bolt hex socket (metric, forgot the size)
Flat head screw driver
You'll want to have
Paint pen
Bandaids
Soda or beer
Remove the negative battery cable!
Take off intake (and assorted equipment/wires/hoses)
Take off passenger side wheel
Remove tension from timing belt
Take off the top timing cover
Mark the belt in relation to the timing marks on each head cam sprocket
Take the belt off the cam sprockets
Drop the Y pipe
Relieve the fuel pressure
Remove the fuel rails
Remove the fuel injectors
Remove coil pack and bracketry
Remove the coolant lines from the thermostat housing, and the various assorted hosery and sensor connectors
Take out all plug wires and plugs
Remove the valve cover bolts and valve cover
Take off the head bolts
Take off the heads (the exhaust manifolds can be taken off either with the head installed or with it uninstalled
13mm 12mm, 10mm, 15mm sockets and wrenches
Various 3/8in extensions
The head bolt hex socket (metric, forgot the size)
Flat head screw driver
You'll want to have
Paint pen
Bandaids
Soda or beer
Remove the negative battery cable!
Take off intake (and assorted equipment/wires/hoses)
Take off passenger side wheel
Remove tension from timing belt
Take off the top timing cover
Mark the belt in relation to the timing marks on each head cam sprocket
Take the belt off the cam sprockets
Drop the Y pipe
Relieve the fuel pressure
Remove the fuel rails
Remove the fuel injectors
Remove coil pack and bracketry
Remove the coolant lines from the thermostat housing, and the various assorted hosery and sensor connectors
Take out all plug wires and plugs
Remove the valve cover bolts and valve cover
Take off the head bolts
Take off the heads (the exhaust manifolds can be taken off either with the head installed or with it uninstalled
Depending on your risk tolerance, you may want to take off the crank pulley and remove the lower timing covers to mark the position of the timing belt in relation to the mark on the crank. If you loosen the belt most likely it will shift and no longer be at the correct place on the crank.
This should be done before the intake is removed to avoid hassles getting the crank pulley bolt off. (ie: bump start bolt loosening technique)
This should be done before the intake is removed to avoid hassles getting the crank pulley bolt off. (ie: bump start bolt loosening technique)
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
If your swapping the heads, you don't really need to mark anything. Just make sure your belt still has the lines on it.
The Hex you need is a #10. Don't get a Kobalt, they are too fat to fit under the cam on the front head's one bolt... I think its the one closest to the alternator... anyway, its a pain to get it to fit in there.
The Hex you need is a #10. Don't get a Kobalt, they are too fat to fit under the cam on the front head's one bolt... I think its the one closest to the alternator... anyway, its a pain to get it to fit in there.
But if all you are doing is replacing the head gasket it'll save some time. Either way if you have to take the damper off so not marking it doesn't really save any time. Of course if you are changing belts, by all means, forgo that step!
elarm1
Maryland Native
What about the alternator and bracket next to it?
What about it?
elarm1
Maryland Native
Does the alternator along with bracket have to be removed?
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
It's not bolted to the head is it? 
I'd only remove it if it was giving you the "stink eye".
boat
Likes blue ones
the craftsman #10 fits in there, its a little tight but it does the job.
elarm1
Maryland Native
Bracket does have to come off, Craftsman #10 works with a little luv taps! Don't forget the Dipstick bolt, #10. Please Sticky!
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
I went searching for the Allen bolt size for the head bolts and here I am. Thanks for that data and the other information as I am soon to replace the front bank head gasket. While at it, I was going to perform the front and upper 60K services since most of the parts removals will have already been done. The timing belt, water pump, front main seal and lower radiator hose are targets for the front end while the valve gaps, valve cover gaskets and plugs are game for the upper end.
Is there sufficient space between the radiator and fan to allow the exhaust manifold bolts to be removed? Should they be removed for the extra clearance? I was needing to perform a thorough flush of the cooling system to clean out the head gasket repair solution anyway.
I intend to take a lot of pictures since I have never had the head off before. It should be interesting to see the inside of the SHO's cylinders after 400,000 miles. I know what the valve train looks like thanks to the superior lubrication qualities of Castrol GTX, but the state of the piston tops and cylinder walls is a point of interest. Stay tuned....
Is there sufficient space between the radiator and fan to allow the exhaust manifold bolts to be removed? Should they be removed for the extra clearance? I was needing to perform a thorough flush of the cooling system to clean out the head gasket repair solution anyway.
I intend to take a lot of pictures since I have never had the head off before. It should be interesting to see the inside of the SHO's cylinders after 400,000 miles. I know what the valve train looks like thanks to the superior lubrication qualities of Castrol GTX, but the state of the piston tops and cylinder walls is a point of interest. Stay tuned....
93rev2sev
SHO Member
Half of the exhaust manifold studs will come out with the nuts, the other half...there's plenty of room to do a "reverse double-nut".
bubba
ATX Connoisseur
15 mm for the manifold studs! and alittle bit of arm in it!
elarm1
Maryland Native
You CAN take of the head with both manifolds still attached. You don't have to take them off
bubba
ATX Connoisseur
When I stripped mine motor, I took the heads off with manifolds on! but the engine was out of the car also! take the y off also!
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
The front bank head came off easily (after the removal of all the required components) with the exhaust manifold attached, preventing from having to replace the exhaust manifold gasket. The lifting bracket above the alternator must come off since it is bolted to both the head and the alternator mounting bracket. The alternator must be removed to allow access to the two bolts on this bracket attaching it to the alternator bracket. I left the Y-pipe in place and removed only the two nuts at the front bank ******.
The piston tops, combustion chamber and valves were all covered with a thin coating of carbon. I confirmed that there is a great enough thickness to cause the pistons to contact the valves. The SHO engine can become an interference engine after these deposits have formed. The #5 cylinder was the one in which I had found the coolant indicating the head gasket leak. The leak path into this cylinder was obvious after the head was removed. See the 1/2" wide section of the head gasket seal at the screwdriver tip that allowed passage of coolant and exhaust gases between the cylinder and the coolant passage. I will perform a more detailed inspection to ensure that there is no erosion of the aluminum head in that area that would prevent the new gasket from sealing properly. In the second image of the #4 cylinder, you can still see the honing marks with no evidence of vertical scoring even after 403K miles.
Tomorrow I am thinking of inspecting the rear bank while I have all the parts removed. The cost is the time and the cost of another new head gasket. I must still replace the water pump (A1 Cardone reman has been installed for over 150K miles and is not currently leaking although it had in the past, but the bearings are loose), swap the timing belt (why not?), replace the valve cover seals and do the valve gapping. I have a front main oil seal, but was not able to pull the timing sprocket to access it. The sleeve repair adhesive has done its job too well.
The old head gasket was pealed off, buth how much of the old head gasket material must I remove from the head and block before installing the new one?
The piston tops, combustion chamber and valves were all covered with a thin coating of carbon. I confirmed that there is a great enough thickness to cause the pistons to contact the valves. The SHO engine can become an interference engine after these deposits have formed. The #5 cylinder was the one in which I had found the coolant indicating the head gasket leak. The leak path into this cylinder was obvious after the head was removed. See the 1/2" wide section of the head gasket seal at the screwdriver tip that allowed passage of coolant and exhaust gases between the cylinder and the coolant passage. I will perform a more detailed inspection to ensure that there is no erosion of the aluminum head in that area that would prevent the new gasket from sealing properly. In the second image of the #4 cylinder, you can still see the honing marks with no evidence of vertical scoring even after 403K miles.
Tomorrow I am thinking of inspecting the rear bank while I have all the parts removed. The cost is the time and the cost of another new head gasket. I must still replace the water pump (A1 Cardone reman has been installed for over 150K miles and is not currently leaking although it had in the past, but the bearings are loose), swap the timing belt (why not?), replace the valve cover seals and do the valve gapping. I have a front main oil seal, but was not able to pull the timing sprocket to access it. The sleeve repair adhesive has done its job too well.
The old head gasket was pealed off, buth how much of the old head gasket material must I remove from the head and block before installing the new one?
Last edited:
elarm1
Maryland Native
I removed all of it. I went across it with a razor blade LIGHTLY then wiped clean with shop rags. Just make sure its clean enough not to cause high and low spots when putting on the new HG.
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