CV or not CV. that is the question

[FriedRiceBob]

OK. i replaced my drivers-front cv-axle 2 days ago because there was what can best be described as "clicking" or "rattling" during right hand turns. but only when powering through right hand turns.
now. even after replacing the CV, it is STILL rattling during right hand turns. it almost seems to be worse.
GRRRRRRRRRR
so. whats the deal you think?
Could i have gotten a bad replacement axle?
could it be something else entirely?
Thanks in advance shrug

 

[projectSHO89]

Are you positive the noise was from that corner?

Have you tested the wheel bearing?

Steve

 

[FriedRiceBob]

yes. very positive.

and no i havent checked the wheel bearing. what do i look for exactly?

 

[rangerj]

Friedricebob,

Raise the suspected front wheel and check for any looseness in the hub/bearing area. Check for any lateral movement (side to side) by grabbing the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock, and then at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions.

With both wheels off the ground, and the vehicle in neutral, turn the wheel and listen for a dry metal to metal and/or a growling of the bearing. A mechanics stethescope helps to pick up the sound. Apply the emergency brake and block the rear wheels for safety. Bearing replacement should be anticipated between 60K to 100K. Replace the bearing and hub as a unit.

Check the "dust shield" that is riveted to the steering knuckle. A brocken rivet could be allowing the shield ro "rattle". I drill out the rivets and "tap" the rivet holes. Then I install stainless steel bolts. This stops the "rattle".

Hope this helps, rangerj

 

[FriedRiceBob]

rangerj, thank you for your reply
if it is the bearing/hub, where is a good place to get a hold of those peices? what kind of $damage$ am i looking at?
im pretty sure the dust shield is on there good, but will check that as well.
also...any further suggestions? i want to kick this problem's ass.

 

[rangerj]

FRB,

Any good auto parts store should have the bearing and hub for about $75 to $100. Auto Zone is on the low end. Buy the bearing and hub as a set. You will also need a new axel nut as it is a "lock" nut and recommended for one use only.

The hub has to be pressed out of the old bearing, then the bearing has to be pressed out of the steering knuckle. For 96 and subsequent years it is a bolt on assembly, and a little more expensive. Then the new bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle, hold down/cover plate bolted on, and then the hub pressed into the bearing.

If you do not have access to a press then it may be wise to buy the parts at an auto parts store that will do the press work (at about $20 a side.
They may do the press work for less if you buy the parts from them!

If you want the bearing to last, the axel nut must be torqued to specification, about 180 to 200 foot pounds. If you do not have a torque wrench that goes that high, try Auto Zone. They loan out tools for a refundable deposit. I have seen many "shadetree" mechanics torquing their axel nuts in Auto Zone's parking lot!

The pinch bolt, and its nut, that holds the ball joint stud in the steering knuckle should also be replaced as the nut is also a locking nut, and the bolt gets corroded.

I use a bottle jack to push down on the lower control arm to free the ball joint stud. I find this easier than trying to pry down on the lower control arm, manuver the strut, and back the axel out of the hub, while whistling Dixie at the same time. thumbs_u

You may have to "tap" on the end of the axel to drive it out of the hub. If you do this, protect the threads of the axel with the old axel nut.
You may not have to do this since you just put in a new axel. If you need any more info let us know. rangerj