CV joint test?

[Fudog]

The steering wheel jerks when you turn right or left in my 93'. It seems to be worse when turning left. I was told that it may be worn cv joints. The person had the same problem on his mid 90's SLO. So is there any signs of worn joint I should look for? Also is there anyway to test the joints? I have had thoughts of the vss and the ps pump.

Thx Peepoleys

 

[Ishodu]

Sounds like it could be the sub frame bushings rather than the CV joints. To check the sub frame bushings open your hood start your car. Now sitting in the drivers seat look under the edge of the hood at the motor. Turn your wheel back and forth from lock to lock to see if the engine shifts.

 

[Fudog]

No shift on the motor. I ve also noticed that I dont seem to have the enigine stabilizers. Maybe the atx doesnt have them I dont know. But Ive noticed on several pics and while doing work on the car that they were missing.

 

[SHOtimer]

No shift on the motor. I ve also noticed that I dont seem to have the enigine stabilizers. Maybe the atx doesnt have them I dont know. But Ive noticed on several pics and while doing work on the car that they were missing.

The ATX does not have those. For that steering problem, you may be looking at a rack issue.

Doug

 

[Fudog]

Thats what i thought originally. Cause the power steering fliud is really bad and kinda grimey. My youngest brother had a mid 90's slo and when his cv's started going out he had the same problem. Ive noticed that when not moving the car turns the wheel fine, but when driving at low spds(under45) it will **** when turning like the cv joints are binding and catching a little. It's like something tapping the break on just the inside wheel when i turn. I dont know. I also notice at highway spds it gets harder to turn the wheel. I figured it was the vaps though. Does any of this help out or make it easier to diagnos the problem? I have a new Vss to put in it but im waiting until i do the front 60k(belts/sensors/seals/water pump)
Thx for any info you can offer.

 

[SHOtimer]

I can't pinpoint what exactly is going on. But, if it was my car with that problem and those amount of miles I would consider my rack to be the problem.

But, I can't say it isn't your CV joints, it possibly could be. Worn out CV joints are usually accompanied with a clicking noise while turning.

Regardless of if the problem is the CV joints or the rack, you should change out that PS fluid. Nasty fluid can have adverse effects on the system, and that fluid could possibly be original. To do this you need some type F ATF just some regular kind, not sythetic, and a baster. Simply, use the baster to suck out the PS resivour and then refill it with the new fluid. Then drive the car for a day or two and do it again. Keep doing this for a week to two weeks untill the fluid gets clean and clear and stays that way.

I would suggest this way over just draining the whole system and refilling it because it slowly introduces the new fluid into the system and IMHO is a cleaner, easier, way to do it. And you arn't stuck needing to bleed the system afterwards.

Doug

 

[Fudog]

ok thats sounds like the way i nd to do it. I haven't heard any clicking when i turn. I usually got my window down smelling for smoke(seals leakin on cats). So maybe it is the rack after all. So how much fluid should i buy to replace the old? I want to make sure i have enough to do the 2 week process lol.
Thx for the replies
Brian

 

[SHOtimer]

Well, you are going to be changing out about 1-1.5 cups of fluid a day, or however much the resivour holds. I think when I flushed my original fluid out @ ~140k, it took around 2-3 quarts to notice a significant difference in the fluid and I ended up flushing 5-6 through so when I was done the fluid was pure and clean.

Doug

 

[Fudog]

thx man