Cutting the Fuel Pump Access Door

[TwistedD85]

There's no way in **** I'll be able to get through the floor with tin snips, at least not the ones I've had the privilege of using, would one of those saws with the two counter rotating blades work alright? I don't think they make any sparks and as far as I know that's about the only concern other than cutting the lines. If at all possible I was going to rent one to make it easier on myself.

As for sealing it back up, would aluminum metal tape for ducting work alright?

And has anyone had any problem with Bosch fuel pumps? Or is there one I can grab from Advance Auto/Auto Zone that'd be of decent quality?

:thankyou:

 

[SuperHO]

Being the back-woods redneck i am, i cut mine with a combimation tin snips and a hammer and screwdriver, so i imagine just about any cutting utensil will do so long as you're careful.

And aluminum tape will cover hole just fine.

 

[TwistedD85]

Being the back-woods redneck i am, i cut mine with a combimation tin snips and a hammer and screwdriver, so i imagine just about any cutting utensil will do so long as you're careful.

And aluminum tape will cover hole just fine.

I'd have to imagine the ones I'm using are very dull and worn out, besides getting a new pair of tin snips is there any particular kind you'd recommend? As far as I can see there's normal and aviation tin snips, other than the appearance I'm not sure what the differences are.

 

[zak]

The Bosch pumps are turbine type, as opposed to gerotor type, and are supposed to be smoother in terms of a steady flow to the injectors. I want to try one but would like one with a ~ 150 l/hr rating.

Heavy duty snips for cutting sheetmetal HVAC ductwork might be something to look at.

 

[jayro]

A set of good tin snips from any hardware store will work to cut the metal. Dont get the ones that look like siccors! Get the ones that have a shorter blade and are designated right cut or left cut.

I have cut a couple of access doors and have always used an air cut off tool. Just start out very shallow and slowly get deeper with each cut until you are through the metal. Just dont go through the metal very far because of the fuel lines. If you dont like the idea of sparks, you can also use an air hammer to cut it.

As far as sealing it up. I put hinges on one side and made a small lip on the other with a scrap of sheet metal. Put a small slide lock to hold it closed and sealed up the edges with duct tape. Works like a charm.

 

[Michelle]

Sparks...

Ta da!

 

[SHOCH]

I made the cut running from the hammer handle toward the passenger door first in that last pic with no fear of hitting lines. Then slid a piece of 1/8" masonite/plywood in to cover the lines while making the other cuts. I used a dremmel,(Same as Adam) went slow/patient and barely touched the wood. Then made some holes and riveted the plate back down half lapping the opening with scrap hvac sheetmetal and caulked. I can and have already gone back in and just had to drill out the rivets to do it.

 

[TwistedMunky]

Sparks...

Ta da!

I did the exact same thing Angle grinder and a steady hand. I placed a wet towel in front to catch the sparks and only cut as little as you can.

 

[hawkeye18]

I used a dremel with a cut-off wheel. Took forever, but the wheel literally cannot cut deep enough to nick the fuel lines, so beyond sparks this is about the safest method involving rotary tools.

 

[frosho]

Not true.

A Dremel cut-off wheel most definitely CAN cut deep enough to hit the lines. When Hamal did mine, he was VERY careful not to cut too deep, and he still ended up hitting one when the wheel grabbed. Thankfully he didn't cut through it, only left a couple scratches, but the point is that every car is different. If you're going to use a cut-off wheel of any kind, you have to assume that the lines are close to the floorboard.

 

[TwistedD85]

A set of good tin snips from any hardware store will work to cut the metal. Dont get the ones that look like siccors! Get the ones that have a shorter blade and are designated right cut or left cut.

So the "Aviation" type then?

I think the ones I have just might be extremely dull, I understand it's cutting metal so it should be difficult, but it took all of my strength to get them to snip even half an inch, they're not the aviator type though.

As for the sparks, I was just reading what the how-to said, I had no idea if any vapors tended to accumulate in the space :thankyou:

I think I'll be taping it down really well this time around but if I can find a small piano hinge or something I might make it hinged down the road sometime.

 

[rubydist]

I used a Dremel w/ cutoff tool and, if careful not to go too deep, you can do it safely w/o damage to fuel lines. fwiw, I hinged mine at the rear, rather than the front as shown in the photos above.

I would not use duct tape because the adhesive will dry out after a few years and the tape will come off. I made a couple of little metal pieces that I screwed down to the "flap" to anchor it, then used strapping tape to "seal" it up.

 

[NoSlo]

I've dropped my tank, it's not as big of a deal as it is made out to be, as long as the bolts aren't rusted. It helps to have the car up high and put a jack under the empty tank. Preferable in my opinion to accidentally cutting or drilling the tank and having a big hole in your car body.

BTW I have a fuel pump and sender assembly that was swapped at 140k when I was throwing parts at what turned out to be a bad o2 sensor, if you are looking for used.

 

[SHOtime2511]

I used a 4" cut off wheel on the last car I did.
You just have to be VERY careful.

 

[itwonder]

X2, just drop the dang tank. Do it right and forget all this ghetto butchering of the body. If the pump has never been changed, its a good opportunity to wash the tank out with purple power so it's factory clean. It's about a 30 minute job to drop the tank, and it eliminates concerns about nicking lines when cutting that hole.

I'm running a Bosch pump. Works just fine and is quieter. It does not come with the strainer, but you can get those separately from NAPA for $5-6. Also, the locking ring o-ring that came with it was oversize. I re-used the original.

 

[TwistedD85]

I've already had to drop the tank on a 95 GL, that alone made me not want to do it again. I don't have the tools to make it easy on myself so I'd rather just go the door route.

 

[SHO Continental]

Dropping the tank isn't too hard. Even if it's rusty all you have to do is replace some bolts... and maybe the tank.

 

[TwistedD85]

Yup, I don't have but one jack stack (For some reason unknown, I used to have two) and no floor jack so the last time I did that I had to do it using the break in the driveway where it started to angle down for drainage and the scissor jack from one car to lift one side of the car, the scissor jack from another car to lower the tank, and everything I had to keep from pulling on hoses and wires. Without the proper tools any simple job is a nightmare :cry: But I gotta say I really wish I could do something like that and replace the tank, it looks purdy.

 

[jayro]

Yup, I don't have but one jack stack (For some reason unknown, I used to have two) and no floor jack so the last time I did that I had to do it using the break in the driveway where it started to angle down for drainage and the scissor jack from one car to lift one side of the car, the scissor jack from another car to lower the tank, and everything I had to keep from pulling on hoses and wires. Without the proper tools any simple job is a nightmare :cry: But I gotta say I really wish I could do something like that and replace the tank, it looks purdy.

Yes, having the right tool for an job makes it 100 times easier. Please go get yourself some real jackstands! DO NOT use a jack to support the car while you are doing any work on it! There just isnt any point to gambling with it when losing mean car will fall on you.

 

[TwistedD85]

Yes, having the right tool for an job makes it 100 times easier. Please go get yourself some real jackstands! DO NOT use a jack to support the car while you are doing any work on it! There just isnt any point to gambling with it when losing mean car will fall on you.

Well I used the one jack stand I had to keep that one side of the car up, really all I did was jack it up enough to get some more room, the wheel wasn't even off the ground. So I know the safety stuff quite well, I'm not that dumb Just don't have the money to replace my good and for some reason missing jack stands at the moment, but the car never goes in the air with any part of me under it without a jack stand back-up. Honestly I don't even trust jack stands entirely, I usually have one of those heavy duty plastic ramps under there as well as a secondary back-up, I might be a little paranoid but I just don't like thinking the entire car is supported by a little steel jack stand if it comes down to it.