Crankshaft pulley

[shocrates]

How do I get this pulley back on? Do I need a pulley installer or is there another way to install it?

I was also planning to remove the crank timing gear to replace the seal but I don't want to take it off until I know how I can install it. Please help.

 

[sdpatt]

First clean off the oxidation from the crankshaft and apply a very light coating of grease to it to prevent it from rusting again. The pulley and damper should slide on with pressure provided by your hand/arm/shoulder. If it doesn't slide on with this effort, just apply an ice bag around the crankshaft for a few minutes. The pulley and damper should slide on easily after that. The damper bolt can be used to secure them the rest of the way. Make sure you torque the bolt to the required 113-126 lb-ft to keep it from coming loose. Not a good thing to have happen.

<small>[ October 13, 2002, 10:17 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[RStalveyARFF]

for the timing gear I use a schedule 40 PVC pipe, and tap it lightly with a rubber mallet. With the crank damper I use a 2x4 to tap it on with the mallet, after anti-seize has been spread on the shaft. Make sure to torque the crank bolt also.

 

[shojuan]

If you don't live in the rust belt (sorry rust-belt folks, I'm posting this for the benefit of non-rust belt newbies) both should just slide right on. I put a thin coating of redline assembly **** and my crank pulley slid right on with pressure from my pinkies. Ditto for the damper pulley.

Make sure you use some locktite on the crank bolt. I used locktite blue (medium strength) because that is what I had. I think people tend to use the stronger red stuff. I think SHO91MTX
is one of those people that doesn't like to use it at all. The rust method of bolt locking, eh?

Rick

 

[sdpatt]

I have been one of the unfortunate SHO owners who have had the crank bolt come loose during operation. I heard a light, clunking rattle and found the crank damper wobbling on the crankshaft. During the removal, inspection and repair, I found the crankshaft to be reduced in diameter from the wear. This required either a new crankshaft, weld repair or shimming. I shimmed.

It is very important that the crank damper bolt be tightened to the required 113-126 lb-ft and that it stay there until you pop it loose again. I was one to use red Loctite on the washer area of the bolt. I didn't want to risk damaging the threads that had already been challenged by the wobbling damper.

For the MTX owners, it is much easier to resist the torque of the bolt installation. With the shifter in 4th and the parking brake on and all four tires on the ground, much torque can be applied. Or with a friend's foot on the brake pedal, you don't even need the tires back on the ground.

For the ATX owners, you have more limited choices. I have formerly used a C-clamp on the damper and let it bump against the large aluminum tab below the crank. I now have a large strap wrench that I will use next time. Whatever the method, you need to properly torque that bolt.

 

[DavidT]

How was I able to free up my crank bolt by hand only? And it sure didn't feel that tight???

 

[jthomas68]

It was just too loose.