Crankshaft Bolt

[NickTheTrick]

Hey guys,

I am doing cam seals on my ‘89, and I am having a time with the crank bolt. I’ve tried using my 1/2” snap on impact on it to no avail. I put a breaker bar on it and bumped the motor over about 15 times now. That didn’t work. I tried putting it in 5th gear, but it just rotates as if it’s in neutral; it doesn’t hold anything.
Is there something else I can try, before I put everything back together and take it to the shop to use their bigger compressor power and a bigger impact. I’ve worked on a lot of cars over the years as a tech, but never had a crank bolt hold this tight.
Is the thing left hand threads or something?
Thanks!

 

[Irish Pride]

The one time I had a crank bolt that I couldn't get loose with the starter bump, I had to put the wheel back on it and put it back on the ground and attack it from above. I used a shallow 19mm on my breaker bar and a long pipe on the end of my breaker bar. That gave me the torque that I needed to break it loose. You could try it while it's up in the air first if you have someone that can sit in the drivers seat with their foot on the brake. If all else fails, use a hole saw to cut the f l a n g e off the bolt. Once it's removed you'll be able to turn the bolt out with your hand. Good luck!

-Chad

 

[luigisho]

Same as Irish above. Long cheater pipe can really help move stubborn bolts. I was also able to do it with car in gear, wheel off, 1/2" breaker, deep socket with enough extention to get some clearance from the fender and use cheater pipe. I use the galvanized metal pipes from home dpt, Lowes plumbing section. about 4-5 ft. Make sure the pipe diameter fits over the breaker bar or ratchet handle.

 

[NickTheTrick]

Ok what am I doing wrong? I put it back on the ground, put it in 5th, and it still rotates the motor. How are you getting it to be stationary?
Also, the hole saw ****** trick is a good idea if I can’t get it.

 

[Irish Pride]

Ok what am I doing wrong? I put it back on the ground, put it in 5th, and it still rotates the motor. How are you getting it to be stationary?
Also, the hole saw ****** trick is a good idea if I can’t get it.

Have someone in the car on the brakes.

-Chad

 

[Devin]

When I had to get mine out the engine was out of the car, so my buddy stood on a 6ft cheater bar and his dad hit the end with a sledge hammer. Worked.

 

[NoSlo]

When I had to get mine out the engine was out of the car, so my buddy stood on a 6ft cheater bar and his dad hit the end with a sledge hammer. Worked.

See attached. Cheater pipe + crank bolt > wrench.

I had another wrecking yard that after lots of trying by me and their mechanics, they rolled a compressor out to the yard and used a big Earthquake impact to finally bust one loose.

You can also put a bit of torch heat on the bolt head itself for 30 seconds or so, not enough to heat the pulley or melt the rubber of the harmonic balancer, just enough to lengthen the bolt and loosen its grip. Put a battery charger in "start" mode on the fully-charged battery to boost the current the starter motor can draw.

For locking up the engine, you can look up "rope trick", but you must be able to determine the cylinder is at TDC with valves closed so you don't bend one. Or a lockup tool, but I don't know if I'd trust one not to bust off or put a hole in the piston with this kind of force needed.

 

[rubydist]

If its a manual trans car and you don't have a partner to stand on the brake pedal while you use the cheater bar on the wrench, you can put it in 4th gear and stick a screwdriver in the disc brake vents on each side and have it contact the brake caliper so that it will not allow the axles to rotate. I have done that more than once...

 

[Devin]

See attached. Cheater pipe + crank bolt > wrench.

I had another wrecking yard that after lots of trying by me and their mechanics, they rolled a compressor out to the yard and used a big Earthquake impact to finally bust one loose.

You can also put a bit of torch heat on the bolt head itself for 30 seconds or so, not enough to heat the pulley or melt the rubber of the harmonic balancer, just enough to lengthen the bolt and loosen its grip. Put a battery charger in "start" mode on the fully-charged battery to boost the current the starter motor can draw.

For locking up the engine, you can look up "rope trick", but you must be able to determine the cylinder is at TDC with valves closed so you don't bend one. Or a lockup tool, but I don't know if I'd trust one not to bust off or put a hole in the piston with this kind of force needed.

That's a badge of honor there.