Crank Sensor help!!!

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TT SHO PROJECT

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ok so right now im chargeing up the turbo sho's battery in hope that i can get her to fire with a bad crank sensor.... im about ready to replace it but im not quite sure of how to get to it... i was thinking about being lazy and dumb and just cut the plactic timeing belt cover off but i dont think thats a smart thing to do seeing that its water that will **** the crank sensor... sigh.. is there an easy(yeah right) way to get to it and what needs to be done?

-Turbo Bob.:oogle:
 

Toolman

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No easy way to get to it. You must remove acc belts, crank pulley, lower cover, timing belt, and geared pulley to access the crank sensor. If you are that far into it you might as well replace the crank seal as well. Figure on half a day to get it done.
 

TT SHO PROJECT

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sigh :( this is why i hate fwd cars hehe... im guessing ill need a crank pulley puller? man im really gonna mess this one up... havent messed with timeing belt crap on a sho yet, i can turbo a car... but doing a crank sensor on a sho??? **** no hehehe but ill give it a try i sure as heck aint gonna pay to get it replaced. is there and step by step on how to get this done? something with picture maybe? :type: well i gotta do what i gotta do. sigh.

-Turbo Bob.
 

TT SHO PROJECT

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Well the turbo sho started! w00t! maybe i can hold off on replaceing the crank sensor.... the last time the car was ran was umm i wanna say on my birthday april 10th thats when it died dead on me.. maybe the sensor got wet and maybe its dry now? who knows but it runs! smoked out my garage tho cuz the maf and turbo plumbing aint hooked up... damn tow truck ripped my lower discarge plumbing off and ripped the ****** off the bov... dirty sobs! hehe. but yeah if anyone can link me to a site on how to replace the crank sensor that would be awsome.... now i just need to figure out why i cant get the car outta the garage lol its stuck on somethin just burnin the tires trying to pull out lol.... sigh, if its not one thing its another :p

-Turbo Bob.:nut:
 

USHOMEISHOU

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FYI, I dont know if this is typical but my cs went out a while back, IT DID'NT GET WET AT ALL!! It would fail as soon as the enging reached normal running temperature, i would let the engine cool down and it would start right up, warm up and fail again, alot of people say that it fails when the water pump leaks on it, not mine i guess it was just old and when it got hot it would stop sending a signal and **** the engine. i replaced it and it's been perfect ever since. (by the way I'm used to working on my 87 chevy 4x4 W/350cu TBI there's a lot of room in the engine bay on that) this was the first time i ever worked on a fwd car and it took me a total of about 3.5 hours:thumb:
 

SASHO91

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Toolman said:
No easy way to get to it. You must remove acc belts, crank pulley, lower cover, timing belt, and geared pulley to access the crank sensor. If you are that far into it you might as well replace the crank seal as well. Figure on half a day to get it done.


I find its easier(less work) to not pull the timing belt/gear. But thats if the T-belt still looks good...

But yeah, half a day for a n00b.. :evilgrin: :thumb:
 

USHOMEISHOU

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SASHO91 said:
I find its easier(less work) to not pull the timing belt/gear. But thats if the T-belt still looks good...

But yeah, half a day for a n00b.. :evilgrin: :thumb:
:lol: hey, I was a noob at this, this is my first sho but you're right...my timing belt looked fine so i left it alone and saved myself alot of time:hdance:
 

Toolman

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I guess if you are not replacing your main seal, that you could go that way, but for the whole $7 that it costs, I always replace it.
 

TT SHO PROJECT

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USHOMEISHOU said:
FYI, I dont know if this is typical but my cs went out a while back, IT DID'NT GET WET AT ALL!! It would fail as soon as the enging reached normal running temperature, i would let the engine cool down and it would start right up, warm up and fail again, alot of people say that it fails when the water pump leaks on it, not mine i guess it was just old and when it got hot it would stop sending a signal and **** the engine. i replaced it and it's been perfect ever since. (by the way I'm used to working on my 87 chevy 4x4 W/350cu TBI there's a lot of room in the engine bay on that) this was the first time i ever worked on a fwd car and it took me a total of about 3.5 hours:thumb:

yeah man im used to rwd cars where u can sin in the engine bay and wrench around on it... and wow 3.5hrs first time nice work man. :thumb:
 

TT SHO PROJECT

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Toolman said:
I guess if you are not replacing your main seal, that you could go that way, but for the whole $7 that it costs, I always replace it.
this engines just a test bed... gonna see how much it will take how much a$$ kickiing till it finaly wont run anymore then its 3.2 time. a swap shouldnt be to hard for me, its what i do best engine swaps... plus i know how to remove it from the top. =)

-Turbo Bob :evilgrin: http://jelloslug.com/shoforum/evilgrin.gif
 

JustInSideThG8s

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Just out of curiosoity what kind of sin :evilgrin: goes on in that engine bay of yours... :lol:

Just kidding but ya i was planning on swpping my CPS once i got my car running as a precaution but it looks like i might as well make a day of it and get that main seal and belt...
 
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TT SHO PROJECT

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JustInSideThG8s said:
Just out of curiosoity what kind of sin :evilgrin: goes on in that engine bay of yours... :lol:
6-10psi of boost... a oil return line that refuses to stay hooked up... and cracked welds from not useing argon/co2.. and lots of 8k rpm hard limet boosted burn outs hehe :p... oh and of course theres plenty of naughty greed under there somewhere.. the greed for more powah!... hehe imma blow this sucker up this summer if i get a new clutch on it... the south bend clutch i had installed SUCKS! slips like crazy... cant shift under boost and high gears under boost=slipage. Huge waste of money should of just got a good stage what ever clutch.

Blah its almost 7am here and im still up so imma pass out now.

-Turbo Bob. zZZzZzZzzZzzz
 

zacritz929

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Im no mechanic and I did a whole front 60k. Just follow the SHO phoenix guide and youll be able to get it done.
 

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