To remove the damper pulley, you should use a puller that is congiured to use 2 or 3 bolts to attach to the pulley/gear. To remove the timing belt pulley from the crank, you can use the same puller, but many sets don't come with the bolts small enough for this pulley. The MTX SHO is kind enough to provide the exact bolts necessary in the lower timing belt cover - the two long bolts. The ATX cover only has one ot these bolts.
You must remove the damper to replace the timing belt and the CPS, but you only have to remove the timing belt pulley to replace the front main seal.
To torque the damper bolt with a MTX, put the shifter in 4th gear, have someone step on the brakes and torque away. For the MTX and ATX, you can also use a large C-clamp on the damper and let it press against something very solid as it tries to rotate.
Also, to remove the damper bolt, you should apply something cold to the bolt. Adding heat to the bolt will cause it to expand and hang on to the threads even more tightly. I found that using a little wet sand paper on the crankshaft created enough heat to prevent the timing belt pulley from fitting due to the thermal expansion of the shaft. Remedy? I placed a couple of ice cubes on the crankshaft and the pulley slipped on easily.
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Scott
1991, 252K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/polyurethane, SHO Shop front & rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
Class II hitch, Silver award at the SHOklahoma Car Show
[This message has been edited by sdpatt (edited 11-22-2001).]
