crank pulley question

[cetroutt]

so i'm changing the crank sensor and after the eleventy billionth attempt at the starter bump it breaks loose and i get the bolt out. then i realize i can't pull the pulley off with out a puller. so i'm ordering the puller and i'm looking at the how to's and what not, but if i need to heat the pulley to get it back on will a little bernzomatic do the trick? thanks.
chris

 

[SHOred]

I have never taken a SHO balancer off, but all others use a balancer installer. It has a stud that screws into the end of the crankshaft and then you use the bearing and nut to push the balancer on the end of the crankshaft.

Henry

 

[firebat45]

If you're careful, you can get a pulley off with a crowbar. There is a risk though, and if you mess up, crank cancer isn't a nice thing. A puller is a wise investment.

You can get the pulley back on without any special tools, also. I'm able to press it on (with no heating) about 1/2" or so by hand, through the wheel well. After that a few light taps with a small hammer or gentle prying (working in a criss-cross pattern so it goes straight) and I can get it on far enough to start the bolt threads. After that, just use the bolt to pull it on. Sounds complicated but it really isn't. Just make sure you don't start beating on it or trying to get it on when it's on an angle.

I've had mine on and off several times, and installed a 3.0 pulley on the 3.2 when I put it in, and every time I go to take it off it's still nice and tight and my keys are still perfect.

 

[93rev2sev]

Use a heat gun, not a torch...if you can avoid it. It doesn't have to get very hot to ease the installation.

 

[Bob Gervais]

If you're careful, you can get a pulley off with a crowbar. There is a risk though, and if you mess up, crank cancer isn't a nice thing. A puller is a wise investment.

This crank cancer ******** is getting way out of hand, and becoming a common term for "I'm a retard and should not own tools". How in the **** are you going to cause "crank cancer" (ooooh I shudder just mentioning it!!) with a crowbar? Furthermore, why in the **** would you use a crowbar, when the proper tool can be had for less than ten bucks, or a free rental from Autozone??

cetroutt: If there's an Autozone near you, you can rent a puller for free. If there's a Harbor Freight store near you, you can buy one for less than ten bucks.

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/pulley_stock_puller.jpg

This is the type you want, and how it's used, the exception being our pullies have two threaded holes as opposed to three.

To install, it will go on by hand for the first half inch or so, wiggle it while installing and you can get a little more on. Grab a length of 2x4 or other suitable soft wood scrap, and use that to tap it on enough so that you can get the bolt started, and use the bolt to pull it in the rest of the way.

Speaking of bolts, proper crank bolt spec is ******* dropping tight, plus a quarter turn.

 

[K-Dawg]

This crank cancer ******** is getting way out of hand, and becoming a common term for "I'm a retard and should not own tools". How in the **** are you going to cause "crank cancer" (ooooh I shudder just mentioning it!!) with a crowbar? Furthermore, why in the **** would you use a crowbar, when the proper tool can be had for less than ten bucks, or a free rental from Autozone??

cetroutt: If there's an Autozone near you, you can rent a puller for free. If there's a Harbor Freight store near you, you can buy one for less than ten bucks.

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/pulley_stock_puller.jpg

This is the type you want, and how it's used, the exception being our pullies have two threaded holes as opposed to three.

To install, it will go on by hand for the first half inch or so, wiggle it while installing and you can get a little more on. Grab a length of 2x4 or other suitable soft wood scrap, and use that to tap it on enough so that you can get the bolt started, and use the bolt to pull it in the rest of the way.

Speaking of bolts, proper crank bolt spec is ******* dropping tight, plus a quarter turn.

x2.

Use the right puller to get it off. The puller does not thread into the crank as was said above; you'll screw up the crank threads.

Then just tap it on enough to thread the bolt. No heat needed.

 

[shomtx95]

i think he said that the installer threads in the crank, not the puller.

 

[K-Dawg]

Yeah, you're right. But there's no need to use an installer, and I wanted to make sure he doesn't try to thread the puller into the crank.

 

[Eric VerValin]

This crank cancer ******** is getting way out of hand, and becoming a common term for "I'm a retard and should not own tools".

2 more points for Bob....

:thankyou:

 

[firebat45]

How in the **** are you going to cause "crank cancer" (ooooh I shudder just mentioning it!!) with a crowbar? Furthermore, why in the **** would you use a crowbar, when the proper tool can be had for less than ten bucks, or a free rental from Autozone??

Not that I think the OP is an idiot, but lots of people are and I was covering my ass in case someone tried to just reef it off there with a crowbar and marred up the pulley/crank. I agree that it's blown out of proportion, like I said I've done it that way multiple times and I haven't messed anything up.

I don't use the free Autozone tool because:

1: There are no Autozones here in Canada, at least not in my city

2: It takes time to go get those free rental tools

3: It takes time to use the puller

I can get the pulley off way faster than cranking on a puller for 5 minutes. I'm confident enough that I'm not risking any damage because I do it carefully.

And yes, I usually torque to 250lb/ft+ Just make sure the socket is on straight.

 

[St Louis SHO]

This crank cancer ******** is getting way out of hand, and becoming a common term for "I'm a retard and should not own tools". How in the **** are you going to cause "crank cancer" (ooooh I shudder just mentioning it!!) with a crowbar? Furthermore, why in the **** would you use a crowbar, when the proper tool can be had for less than ten bucks, or a free rental from Autozone??

cetroutt: If there's an Autozone near you, you can rent a puller for free. If there's a Harbor Freight store near you, you can buy one for less than ten bucks.

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/pulley_stock_puller.jpg

This is the type you want, and how it's used, the exception being our pullies have two threaded holes as opposed to three.

To install, it will go on by hand for the first half inch or so, wiggle it while installing and you can get a little more on. Grab a length of 2x4 or other suitable soft wood scrap, and use that to tap it on enough so that you can get the bolt started, and use the bolt to pull it in the rest of the way.

Speaking of bolts, proper crank bolt spec is ******* dropping tight, plus a quarter turn.

QFT, and sig worthiness. Oh, and if I tq'd it to dropping a sack, I'd break the bolt.

 

[ShadetreeSHOguy]

Oh, and if I tq'd it to dropping a sack, I'd break the bolt.

You'd have to have a pair first!! :theyareontome:

 

[Inkertinker]

You'd have to have a pair first!! :theyareontome:

Please don't egg him on....

 

[St Louis SHO]

I could prove you wrong, Chris....

 

[ShadetreeSHOguy]

I could prove you wrong, Chris....

That's not ive heard :swing:

 

[cetroutt]

ok, no way i'd try to pull the pulley with out a puller, i've seen them pulled of other engines other ways but i'll stick with the puller. i was mostly worried about putting it back on. but if i don't need heat or if a heat gun will do it, so will the oven. thanks all for the help.

 

[LJRuddy]

I could prove you wrong, Chris....

He speaks the truth... I was meat gazing a few weeks ago in STL and he's got copious amounts of package.

 

[firebat45]

ok, no way i'd try to pull the pulley with out a puller, i've seen them pulled of other engines other ways but i'll stick with the puller. i was mostly worried about putting it back on. but if i don't need heat or if a heat gun will do it, so will the oven. thanks all for the help.

Just make sure you don't overheat the rubber section on the crank pulley.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Absolutely no heat of any kind is required for this operation. Just clean the crank snout before you put on the lower timing sprocket, beveled washer, lower timing cover, and dampener pulley. Do not remove the Woodruff key. Use any type of plastic scrubber (3M Scotchbrite pad) and a little bit of WD-40 or paint thinner. Also use the same method to clean out the center hole in the timing sprocket and dampener pulley (don't forget to do the keyway slot in both also).

After cleaning, apply a thin coat of WD-40 with a rag (don't spray) to everything you cleaned up and then reassemble. The sprocket and dampener are precision bored to a very tight tolerance against the crank snout, so if you get either one a little cattywampuss while installing them, they will bind up. Just back it off and try again.

No heat near anything rubber. Period.

Tom "learned the hard way" Dooley

 

[rubydist]

I've had numerous SHO crank pulleys off and on, and have never had a need to heat the pulley to get it back on. It is required that you clean both the crank and the pulley bore, and that you start it straight....