Crank/no start

[luigisho]

Oh boy. I wonder if a wire is exposed or shorted somewhere. Oil light doesn't sound good but that can be rpm issue only if it dips too low. Good luck. Keep posting.

If you get it running proper, consider getting one of those plastic clips that holds the pcm in position from another Taurus to keep the pcm from too much movement. It's just a little piece of plastic, but you have to remove it when you put a ribbon or eprom in the port.

 

[blk\blk90]

Yeah, I've got an 80mm MAF so it has an LPM and no strap. Is there a torque spec for that 10mm?

 

[luigisho]

You talking about the small screw for the plastic or the wiring harness? I never saw a torque spec for the wiring plug bolt. Just nice and tight and not super tight to damage the connection inside the pcm case. I would dump the MAF and LPM and get it to run in stock config and go from there. Too much extra variables with EPROMs in the mix. You can always put them back in. Those are easy plug and play. Hardly ever worth it by themselves as far as gains and trouble free existence.

 

[sperold]

I would say it is rod bearing time, before that tick gets any louder. What oil is in the car now? More viscosity will help while you are diagnosing. Avoid high rpm and serious activity.

Try pulling codes now.

Does your dash light for codes work now?

Looks like you are winning

 

[blk\blk90]

Still no mil light. I'll check the codes when I get back home. There is a definite miss, on the highway it's very noticeable. I'm not sure what oil is in it, but it's probably due for a change. Figured I'll do an analysis on it too. I'm sure the rod bearings are due too. I hear the distinctive sound if it sits for a while.

 

[blk\blk90]

Ok, green check engine light IS present, but not on. Checking codes starts the test, I can hear a relay click and the fuel pump prime, but gives no codes. No 11 for all clear. Just shuts the tester off after a minute or so.

The car runs rough. It hesitates every few seconds at steady speeds, and idles at 1200. I've gotten 50 miles on 1/4 tank. This car is definitely sick.

 

[Irish Pride]

Have you removed the LPM yet?

Swap on a stock 55mm MAF?

 

[blk\blk90]

I took the LPM out before the pcm swap and it still didn't start. I'll have to wait a bit to get a stock maf. The other 91 is at my mom's house with a blown pp/tob/clutch. I'll try the LPM again though.


On second thought, does the LPM prevent code reading? And if I pull it and do a koer test will it show more codes?

 

[rubydist]

iirc, some of the chips will make it so the pcm will not read codes. also, some of the chips will create a code or two.

I would do the rod bearings before you do anything else - once you start to get the tick/knock, you never know when it will just let go.

 

[SHOdded]

I did not post about it before coz I could not find the exact error the LPM caused on my 92. I did not even know it had an LPM on it LOL till it got the no start condition and error code, not listed in the standard 3 digit codes. I think tho it was a 5xx?

 

[blk\blk90]

Ok. Pulled the LPM and was able to pull codes. First attempt was at the test port and gave this:

Koeo:
551
10
528

Started car, read codes, no wheel/brake/goose

Koer:
6 long pause
10 long pause
116
159
411
538/536/521

I turned the tester off and the car died.

I realized I did the test wrong so I ordered an extension for my reader. Got it and read again. I let the engine warm up and read again:

Koer:
6 long pause
10 long pause
412
159
114
411
538/536/521

At this point I realized the 10 was the "do the things" blink. But the car died during testing so I couldn't do the balance test. It did that twice. So I tested again and as it started to die I blipped the throttle to keep it running and got this:

Koer:
411
225

Balance test:
1
6

I know the 159 MAF code is from the 80mm MAF.

The 411/412 idle codes make me think IAC.

The 114 for air charge temp has me a bit confused. Why didn't it come up before?

225 for knock sensor. No idea.

116 I didn't see on SHOtimes so I'm not sure.

The mods on the car: 3.2 w/3.0 heads and stage 1 cams, UDPs, BBBs, EH intake, 80mm MAF, K&N in stock airbox, (not sure of brand) catted y-pipe, 2.5" exhaust.

The car idles high and varies, but not consistently. Runs like garbage with or without the LPM. Definite misfire in there. The clatter is still there on start up so this set of rod bearings sitting here are going in soon. I'm not sure of where to go besides that.

 

[rubydist]

1. ditch the code reader and count the flashes on the check engine light. obd1 code readers are notoriously bad.

2. if the codes are legit, you have a problem with either power or ground to the circuit that has the mafs and the iat. I can tell you from experience that you will never get the engine to run right at all when you are getting an iat code.

I have seen opens and shorts in the wiring harness itself, so you cannot assume anything regarding wire continuity. You will need to chase down both the power and the ground to that mafs/iat circuit (iirc, the temp sensor is on that too, or maybe the iac valve, at any rate there are 3 things on that circuit) and you must get that fixed for the engine to ever run right again.

 

[blk\blk90]

I'll check em again with the light and report back.