CRANK BOLT IS OFF!!! YES, I AM YELLING!!

[CALL AAA]

Wow, I finally.....uhhhh....got it off. I was at the point where I was about to call a mobile mechanic. I was seriously stuck, but a friend of mine came over with air tools and ideas, and this is how it went.

I tried: (in this order)
A ratchet
A bigger ratchet
Bumping the starter
A "flex handle?" (what's the cool name for those things?)
A "flex handle" with an aluminum hockey stick over the end
An impact wrench
Several impact wrench-flex handle combinations
A blowtorch and an impact wrench
A jig that my friend made (the jig braces the pulley)
The jig and the impact wrench
The jig, the torch and the impact wrench
A 3 foot pipe over the "flex handle"
A 3 foot pipe over the plex handle and the jig, braced against the hood strut mount by a piece of 2X4 (this is what finally broke it)

And speaking of breaking, the death tool is:
2 3/8" drive ratchets
1 1/2"-3/8" socket adaptor
most of the bolts used in the jig
1 crank bolt
1 crank pulley
1 knuckle (left hand) (yes, on my left hand)

Now, if I could only remember why I took it off.....

 

[luigisho]

lol what are you doing using 3/8" tools on a crank bolt? 1/2" drive with impact socket is the ticket. At least it's off. thumbs_u

 

[ScotSHO]

I agree, using 3/8" drive tools to break the crank bolt is not a smart thing. I would buy a 1/2" breaker bar and one 6 point, 19mm socket. Shouldn't be that expensive, and you wouldn't have to worry about breaking your tools and your knukles, or your face for that matter!

Also, don't be afraid of the starter bump trick, it worked for me when I've done my 60k work. Just remember to disable the DIS or the coil pack as noted.

Scot Hewitt

 

[CALL AAA]

Yeah, buying a 1/2" drive breaker to go with a 1/2" socket would've been the ticket, as a 1/2" breaker, 1/2-3/8" adapter and then the socket wouldn't all fit in the engine bay. Either way, that thing wasn't moving with LOTS-O-TORK.
(or was that pork? My friend that helped on this is a big guy)

 

[shojuan]

Scot Hewitt - 95 mtx:
I agree, using 3/8" drive tools to break the crank bolt is not a smart thing. I would buy a 1/2" breaker bar and one 6 point, 19mm socket. Shouldn't be that expensive, and you wouldn't have to worry about breaking your tools and your knukles, or your face for that matter!

Also, don't be afraid of the starter bump trick, it worked for me when I've done my 60k work. Just remember to disable the DIS or the coil pack as noted.

Scot Hewitt

That's exactly what I told him like 4 months ago when he started trying to get the crank bolt off! 1/2" breaker bar and 6point 19mm impact socket combined with the the starter bumb. And lots of PB Blaster just for good measure. Don't know how far it will soak in there but it's gonna do more than dancin' voodoo around the thing.

 

[RStalveyARFF]

so what finally got it off?

 

[CALL AAA]

The jig to brace the pulley, and a 3' long/1/2" drive breaker bar combo and fire finally got it loose. I didn't have a 1/2 inch drive breaker, so I tried to make due with the ratchets at first, and when the impact wrench didn't take it off, I still didn't bother to get a bigger bar. The Helms manual shows a p/n for some other jig-thing, and I almost had to buy that. (if I could figure out where to get one)

 

[RStalveyARFF]

so the jig kept the pulley from moving? Does your friend want to make me one?

 

[pjtoledo]

You have an MTX? Why did you need a "jig thing"?? Just put the tranny in 4th or 5th and apply the brakes.


Perry Toledo,Ohio

 

[CALL AAA]

Oh, yeah. We tried that too. I think that the brakes didn't hold, because we had no power on the car. (the intake is off and the battery is buried on the floor) I'll get a picture, or at least the specs on the jig.

<small>[ February 22, 2003, 02:54 AM: Message edited by: Tony Faye ]</small>

 

[shojuan]

Well using the ebrake alone might not be good enough. That's why you use wheel blocks too. There's always next time!

 

[RI-SHO]

Why did you make it so hard and stayed in the engine compartment where there isnt much room? Why not use the 1/2" drive with 19mm socket and long 12" 1/2" extension to get the bolt from outer part of the fender where you have room to push with a breaker bar, pipe etc.

 

[cRaZySHO.]

RI-SHO:
Why did you make it so hard and stayed in the engine compartment where there isnt much room? Why not use the 1/2" drive with 19mm socket and long 12" 1/2" extension to get the bolt from outer part of the fender where you have room to push with a breaker bar, pipe etc.

Good call Edien. When I did my 60k, I used a long 1/2" extension, and a 3" breaker bar. My dad braced the flywheel with a screwdriver, and I just pulled upwards on the bar from the outside of the passenger side fender. I'll admit it was tough, but if you were to use the extension outside of the engine compartment, it makes it A LOT easier.

 

[pjtoledo]

crazySHO88:

RI-SHO:
Why did you make it so hard and stayed in the engine compartment where there isnt much room? Why not use the 1/2" drive with 19mm socket and long 12" 1/2" extension to get the bolt from outer part of the fender where you have room to push with a breaker bar, pipe etc.

Good call Edien. When I did my 60k, I used a long 1/2" extension, and a 3" breaker bar. My dad braced the flywheel with a screwdriver, and I just pulled upwards on the bar from the outside of the passenger side fender. I'll admit it was tough, but if you were to use the extension outside of the engine compartment, it makes it A LOT easier.

And it can be even easier. I use a 3/4" drive 3/4" 6 pt impact socket on about 2 feet of 3/4" extensions. Then put the head of the breaker bar on a jackstand to steady it. My deft touch of about 240 Lbs on the 18" 3/4" drive bar easily breaks the bolt loose. The large 3/4 drive stuff simply does not flex. Makes it easier, and safer to do. The brakes have always held the engine, as long as its in 5th.

Perry Toledo,Ohio

 

[shojuan]

pjtoledo:

crazySHO88:

RI-SHO:
Why did you make it so hard and stayed in the engine compartment where there isnt much room? Why not use the 1/2" drive with 19mm socket and long 12" 1/2" extension to get the bolt from outer part of the fender where you have room to push with a breaker bar, pipe etc.

Good call Edien. When I did my 60k, I used a long 1/2" extension, and a 3" breaker bar. My dad braced the flywheel with a screwdriver, and I just pulled upwards on the bar from the outside of the passenger side fender. I'll admit it was tough, but if you were to use the extension outside of the engine compartment, it makes it A LOT easier.

And it can be even easier. I use a 3/4" drive 3/4" 6 pt impact socket on about 2 feet of 3/4" extensions. Then put the head of the breaker bar on a jackstand to steady it. My deft touch of about 240 Lbs on the 18" 3/4" drive bar easily breaks the bolt loose. The large 3/4 drive stuff simply does not flex. Makes it easier, and safer to do. The brakes have always held the engine, as long as its in 5th.

Perry Toledo,Ohio

3/4" is the stuff! I have yet to use any 3/4" drive tools but that heavy duty stuff is something to keep in mind. I always assumed that everybody used enough extensions to get the breaker bar outside of the fenders. Whenever a bolt is so tight that I need to use a cheater bar I make it a point of jumping up and down on the cheater (Unless of course it's a nut point up and down like a pitman arm nut, then I just use a longer cheater bar).

 

[1kirby1]

I felt the same way when I finally got my crank bolt loose. I really thought it was hopeless and then I felt like jesus christ himself, the bolt was no match for my 1/2 ratchet, 4 foot metal pipe, and two feet of extensions supported by a jackstand. Never would have never understood had I not done it myself.