Cracked crankshaft

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

firebat45

SHO Member
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
869
Reaction score
472
Location
Edmonton
A friend of mine's SHO started knocking recently, and we figured that rod bearings were a good bet. There was no oil light, but this engine had spun a bearing before, 40k earlier. It was ground 0.030" under and matching rod bearings were used.

Well, when I got the girdle off, I immediately noticed a big frickin' crack through the crankshaft! This car is completely stock, and the engine was idling/under no load when the noise started.

As far as I'm concerned, crank grinding is a big mistake. Every incident of a broken SHO crank that I can think of involves a ground crank, especially all those failed stroker engines from Vadim.

2010 02 09200301

2010 02 09200226

2010 02 09200159

It's not cracked into two pieces (yet!) as far as we can tell, just a nice thick crack, definitely not a hairline crack. We're not running the motor anymore, obviously the crank is garbage but the rest of the engine is still salvageable.

Might turn the car into a Lemons racer. This engine has blown up twice now, so we should be good through the competition maybe.

What's the easiest way to swap a crank? I was thinking that we could drop the tranny, take off the rear main and the oil pump housing, and do the swap in car. It's probably just easier to pull the engine and rebuild on a stand, right?


Sorry for crappy photos, all I had with me was my cellphone.
 
Last edited:

zblackbeast

SHOtarded
Joined
Feb 9, 2008
Messages
2,632
Reaction score
374
Location
Omaha, NE
How the **** did you pull that off? Do you beat the living **** out of it day in and day out? Regrinding the crank should not cause it to crack like that, at ALL.. especially if you use the correct bearings... Jezz man.
 

firebat45

SHO Member
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
869
Reaction score
472
Location
Edmonton
Not my car, so I don't know the absolute specifics of what happened. It wasn't beat on though, it was used as a daily driver and driven in a spirited fashion, but not bagged. Normal driving/shifting most of the time, some moderate acceleration and 5k-ish RPM shifting every now and then.

The engine was rebuilt by the P/O, who is a Ford tech, and he did use the proper bearings.

I'm not saying every ground crankshaft fails, but they are a highly disproportionate percentage of failed crankshafts. SHO crank is case-hardened, isn't it? So grinding off the hardened layer logically seems like a bad idea.
 

zblackbeast

SHOtarded
Joined
Feb 9, 2008
Messages
2,632
Reaction score
374
Location
Omaha, NE
Well.. a majority of them, as you stated in your OP, were the SHOShop stroker kits.. But daymn doode.. Poor motor.. New crank time..
 

93rev2sev

SHO Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2004
Messages
6,461
Reaction score
1,825
Location
Hockeytown
I can't imagine that having anything to do with crank grinding...now if it had cracked at a journal...that might be blamed on shaving off the case hardened steel.
 

firstgen89sho

former Slo_SHO
Joined
Oct 26, 2004
Messages
542
Reaction score
86
Location
Lloydminster Sk, Canada
Blaine, what cyl # is the fracture close to?

It was Prime Engine, near Freedom who did the crank grinding.

That's crazy that it cracked like that, when Dave told me last night, I was real surprised...

Throw another stock crank in her, and she will still be good, as the rest of the engine is still rebuilt. I did not have another stock crank at the time, so I had that one reground.
 

rubydist

SHO Master
Staff member
Super Moderators
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
7,521
Reaction score
3,399
Location
Denver
Its going to be less work overall to pull the engine and put it on a stand, imho. The cranks are heavy, and holding one up under the car while your buddy measures bearing clearances, installs bearing caps, etc. is not going to be any fun.
 

Off Road SHO

Moderator
Joined
Jan 16, 2002
Messages
5,684
Reaction score
1,292
Location
Arizona
Its going to be less work overall to pull the engine and put it on a stand, imho. The cranks are heavy, and holding one up under the car while your buddy measures bearing clearances, installs bearing caps, etc. is not going to be any fun.

Ditto.

And since you don't know where the knocking was coming from, you will have to have the rods checked for out-of-roundness.

Tom
 

zak

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 15, 2002
Messages
1,769
Reaction score
497
Location
east of Hartford
I would examine the radius between the rod journals and the throws. It is possible that they ground 0.03 under and left a sharp step at the edge of the jounral bearing surface (a major stress riser). Who ground the crank? What was the source of the core? Ever run undampened with one of those undampened underdrive crank pullies?

Have a couple of other ideas if that is not it - zak
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2002
Messages
2,516
Reaction score
2,351
Location
Westerly, RI
I would examine the radius between the rod journals and the throws. It is possible that they ground 0.03 under and left a sharp step at the edge of the jounral bearing surface (a major stress riser).

My thoughts exactly. Also, at a regrind of .030", all of the benefits of nitriding were lost. I doubt that has much to do with cracking, but it definitely should have been heat treated again after having so much ground off.
 

sperold

Last to Know
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
3,753
Reaction score
1,440
Location
Ontario Canada
Did that crank ever run a supercharger?
That crank looks like it was subjected to the wrong firing order for half its life.
I don't think you can blame that one on a regrind.
 

firstgen89sho

former Slo_SHO
Joined
Oct 26, 2004
Messages
542
Reaction score
86
Location
Lloydminster Sk, Canada
That crank never ran a supercharger, and as far as I know, it always had the right firing order, the engine had 220,000 kms on it when the bearing spun, and put on around 20-30,000 after the engine was rebuilt
 

jonheese

Used-To-Know-It-All
Joined
Oct 28, 2004
Messages
892
Reaction score
625
Location
Fogelsville, PA
I'd like to see the whole crank out of the block (or at least with all the rod caps off) before drawing any conclusions about exactly what caused the failure.

Can you tell how far the crack goes, or where it starts?

Regards,
Jon Heese
 

firebat45

SHO Member
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
869
Reaction score
472
Location
Edmonton
I'd like to see the whole crank out of the block (or at least with all the rod caps off) before drawing any conclusions about exactly what caused the failure.

Can you tell how far the crack goes, or where it starts?

Regards,
Jon Heese

We will be pulling it out and I'll update, but that's a back burner project, we have other stuff to do. Probably a few months down the road. I couldn't see the end of the crack, it goes out of sight up the crank.

Did that crank ever run a supercharger?
That crank looks like it was subjected to the wrong firing order for half its life.
I don't think you can blame that one on a regrind.

No supercharger, car was bone stock. It ran strong up until the knocking, I don't think the firing was off. I can double check that easily enough though, and people seem to mix up 5 and 6 regularly. Especially since that damn Haynes manual has the wrong firing order in it.

I would examine the radius between the rod journals and the throws. It is possible that they ground 0.03 under and left a sharp step at the edge of the jounral bearing surface (a major stress riser). Who ground the crank? What was the source of the core? Ever run undampened with one of those undampened underdrive crank pullies?

Have a couple of other ideas if that is not it - zak

This is what I think happened. If they left the edge straight, then thats a major stress riser, on top of the strength being lost. Crankshaft was the original one from this car, apparently ground at Prime Engine. No underdrive pullies, bone stock engine.

Blaine, what cyl # is the fracture close to?

It was Prime Engine, near Freedom who did the crank grinding.

That's crazy that it cracked like that, when Dave told me last night, I was real surprised...

Throw another stock crank in her, and she will still be good, as the rest of the engine is still rebuilt. I did not have another stock crank at the time, so I had that one reground.

I've got a 3.0 crank from the engine that's donating it's heads to our Bondurant block, so we will put that crankshaft back in when we get a chance to rebuilt it. The fracture is on the piece of crankshaft between the front (relative to motor, not car) 2 pistons. Pistons 1 and 6 I believe. You can see the dampener in the pictures.

EDIT: My bad, pistons 1 and 4.
 
Last edited:

jonheese

Used-To-Know-It-All
Joined
Oct 28, 2004
Messages
892
Reaction score
625
Location
Fogelsville, PA
The fracture is on the piece of crankshaft between the front (relative to motor, not car) 2 pistons. Pistons 1 and 6 I believe. You can see the dampener in the pictures.

I think you meant 1 and 4.

Firewall
1 2 3
4 5 6
Radiator

Regards,
Jon Heese
 
Last edited:

SuperchargedSHOguy

Got 1000 hp?!?
Staff member
Club Mod
Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
4,089
Reaction score
597
Location
Caribbean
I would not blame the grinding on that. Seems like just one of those freak failures that happen from time to time. There have been plenty of people in the past that have reground the crank after a spun bearing and were fine. The SHOSHOP ones with stroker cranks were the main failures with maybe 1 or 2 not breaking.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
107,080
Messages
1,181,220
Members
16,144
Latest member
14blkbeauty

Members online

Back
Top