CPS removal

[alollich]

I usually don't need to post questions, because the search function will answer most of my questions or problems. However, I did not see this problem in any of the other posts. I can not get the CPS between the engine and the metal inner timing cover. The fuel lines block the the removal or instalation of the new one. I can't imagine that the cam sprockets and metal plate have to be removed. I will just cut the old one out, but there just does not seem to be enough room to squeeze the new one through the opening. Can the CPS be run on the outside of the upper timing cover? Thanks

 

[alollich]

Sorry, I meant for this to be in the help/general section.

 

[autobahnsho]

Are you talking Cam or Crankshaft Positioning Sensor??

If it's crankshaft, you have to remove the "pulley" (damper) off the crankshaft to remove/replace it. You'd need an appropriate puller to get it off nice, and then you just unscrew it and put the new one on.

I also had to remove the top and bottom timing belt covers to do the job.

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If you're talking camshaft, hopefully someone else can help out.

The only reason I'm confused about which one you mean is you're talking about the cam sprockets and "metal plate"- I'm not too familiar with these...

 

[Yamaha V6]

5-speed SHO - run the crank sensor up behind the metal cover, but to the front of the fuel rail. There is enough room to do this without removing the metal cover.

Automatic SHO - remove the metal cover & cam sprockets.

At least, that's what I do for them.

 

[alollich]

It is a MTX car. I guess I will just try and shove it through the opening. I am assuming the sensor end is what you are passing through the opening. There is no way the plug is going to go through.

 

[sdpatt]

There is adequate space to pass the CPS connector up through the area forward (in the car) of the fuel rails even with the water pump and rear metal timing cover installed. I thread a length of 2-conductor speaker wire down through the largest opening pathway from the top of the intake to the area aft of the water pump. I unclip and then slip the white plastic piece off the connector and tape the ground plug back onto the larger wire in the smallest diameter section. These actions are to reduce the diameter of the connector as small as possible. Now tie the speaker wire onto the connector's tip (a slot is available) and gently pull the connector end up past the water pump and through the tangle of wires to the top of the intake. Now reinstall the white clip and fasten the electrical connectors.

If you are replacing the water pump, just wait until the pump is off, because with either engine (3.0L or 3.2L), this provides plenty of room for the harness forward of the fuel rails. The other option is if you are replacing the cam seals, the camshaft sprockets and rear timing belt cover are removed, giving you a choice of paths. Even the original squeeze aft of the fuel rails.

<small>[ February 17, 2004, 02:26 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[K-Dawg]

On both my 94 ATX and 90 MTX, I was able to squeeze the connectors through without removing the metal timing cover.

 

[alollich]

The front of the engine is torn apart so I have plenty of access to the wiring I just could not get it out of the top of the engine. I will look closer and use a little more force. I was concerned that it might damage the fuel lines.

 

[fred79]

it will go through the top just run the cable from bottom to top with the middle cover in place so you don't have to do it again. if you push things around a little you can make more space and ounce you figure it out you will be able to get it in and out easy.

<small>[ February 17, 2004, 02:49 PM: Message edited by: fred79 ]</small>

 

[Yamaha V6]

Cut the old crank sensor old connector off if you're replacing sensor. SNIP! Done, pull it down through.

Install the bottom end of the crank sensor (be sure to gap correctly with the crank sprocket, then install the timing belt, retainer disc, etc., then the middle timing cover, and snake the top of the crank sensor up through the bottom of the rear metal timing cover, but instead of following the old one's location BEHIND the fuel rails, have it come up in front of the fuel rails (on the alternator side of the fuel rails), near where it wants to connect to the wiring harness anyway. Then continue to reassemble the engine-front. It WILL thread through there - you may have to gently move some of the wiring harness out of the way, but it'll have plenty of room in front of the fuel rails.

 

[alollich]

I will try to finfish it up tonight when I get home. Just to confirm the CPS gap should be .76mm correct? Thanks for all the help.

 

[sdpatt]

Yes, .76mm or .03".