Coiled again

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SHOTrio

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Man is this getting tiresome. Those back 4 coil packs are, well I'm going to keep it clean. I understand the failure or short life span is from the accumulated heat back there. Is anybody aware of a trick or mod that allows for heat removal or cooling on those back four coil packs. Damn there expensive.

99 SHO for SHOwin, (108K) not welded yet, I know I'm pushin it
89 SHO Daily Driver
89 SHO - workin on
 

SHOZ123

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Take the rubber strip off the back of the hood. What kind of coils did you replace the originals with?
 

three50one

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I can't say how much cooler the cowl hood keeps anything, but I can say while idling at a stop light or with the car parked you can see the heat bellowing out of the cowl.
 

SHOZ123

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A couple of years ago during a string of +90F days I did some under hood measurement test. After determining that both the front and rear coil areas were near the same temp (around the oil temp or just slightly above the coolant temp) I took the temps from under the LIM.

Interesting thing was that under the front appearance cover the coil area temps were just as high as under the surge tank. This is with the EGR shut off. The EGR operating will easily add >40F from ambient to the temperature of the actual surge tank. This may make the rear coil area hotter than the front.

But the coolest non cowl hood under hood temps were attained by...

Removing the rubber strip at the back pf the hood area.

And removing one side of the underhood part of the cowling. If I took both sides of the underhood cowling out this actually increased temps.

I ended up taking the cowling off on the drivers side. This is a bit of a PITA because you have to remove the wiper motor and drive linkage. Then used a piece of 1&1/2" thick closed cell foam to block off the drivers end of the passenger underhood cowl which is left open.

The reason I took off the drivers side is the ventilation air is drawn in from the passenger side and with that cowling off it sucked up the underhood temps and smells.
 
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NebraskaSHO

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I removed the rubber strip as well. I can see heat pour out of that in summer.
 

SHOTrio

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Thanks for the Tips

Too answer one question, replaced with Motorcraft the first time and seroiusly thinking about generics this time around. (At $199 a piece from local Ford dealership who can blame me) The cowl hood sounds cool, where are they obtained or is it body shop mod?? As for the rubber strip, I like the complete bone stock appearance when SHOwing. Not sure if missing rubber would take away from the points. Had thought about a self designed air flow system to blow some air under tank and vanity cover, what do ya think?
 

SHOZ123

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I had a fan blowing under the surge tank once. But the temp around the MAF will get over 180F in the summer with the AC on. Still the valve cover area will run whatever the oil temp is whether it's the front or the back.

Biggest heat contributor to the surge tank is the EGR system as it will add exhaust air that is much higher than the oil temp.
 

NebraskaSHO

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Could you or Dan do a write up of removing the EGR? Or the SAI for that matter.

/thread hijack
 

SHOZ123

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If the EGR and SAI is shut off in the tune you can just leave it as is, but if you want to completely remove the components.....

Take the EGR valve off and get the gasket. What I did is to get some 3/16" aluminum sheet and trace out the gasket to make two block off plates. Then used the plates along with the gaskets to block off the manifolds. Then remove all the hardware.

On the SAI I took both of the flared fittings out of the exhaust manifold and cut them flush to the hex and tapped them for a 1/2" bolt. The bolt acts as a plug and reinsert the neutered SAI fitting back into the manifold. Then remove the hardware.
 

Silvapain

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The gen I Vulcan engine UIM has a port for EGR, but no EGR system. It uses a cast aluminum blockoff plate that fits perfectly on our UIM. I bought two at the local junkyard, and had to hog out the holes slightly to use the second one on the exhaust manifold. I cut one of the DPFE vacuum lines off at the rubber fitting and filled the cut end with RTV to turn it into a cap for the EGR vacuum port on the UIM.

For the SAI system, I did similar to Paul and cut the fittings flush and tapped them to accept 1/8" NPT plugs.
 

kason

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I took vanity cover off the front of the motor while replacing a coil, and just left it off. Is there anything wrong with leaving it off?
 

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