CODES??? Where do I start?

[curiegas]

I am having trouble with my car I was driving it down the freeway and noticed a lot of smoke. My car shut down when I got off the freeway trying to get to a parking space. Well it ended up being a hole in the cats. I already had a small hole so it kept growing. Well now I dont have cats for a wekk until I get paid again. Now I was driving down the road and again it shut down. I pulled the codes and this is what I got.

KOEO

212
217
332


KOER

117
121
332
411
538
536
632

Now I understand the 538. The OD is off and doesnt turn back on so I think that explains the 632 code. And I forgot to press the brake so I think it explains the 536.

I was waiting to see the code for the CPS since it shut down twice. So I am now totally confused.

Thanks
Cecilia

 

[grasp]

i went to advance to pull my codes which they do free of charge. They then print you up a reciept with the codes and what they stand for. Made it much easier

 

[rangerj]

Cecilia,

What color was the smoke? Did the engine get overheated?

212 Loss of the Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) input to the ECU - (Control Module - aka das computer)/SPOUT (spark output to the ECU [TFI or DIS])circuit grounded.

217 EEC (Electronic Engine Control or PCM[93 and later]) Processor detected Coil 3 primary circuit failure.

There are numerous posts regarding the testing of the DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) with a digital multi-meter, NOT an analog (swing needle) type meter. The CID test requires a LED light probe (DO NOT PROBE these systems with an INCANDESCENT LIGHT type probe).

The test will cover the CPS, CID, coils, IDM to ECU, and the SPOUT to DIS. These tests should help you determine why the above 2 codes have been stored.

The 332 code indicates that the computer detected insufficient EGR flow. Check the vacuum and electrical connections to the EGR and EGR components. Make sure the vacuum lines are not plugged up, nor cracked, nor broken (ie leaking vacuum).

The 117 indicates that the engine coolant temperature sensor is below the minimum voltage. If this is correct you should have noticed the temperature gauge above normal. Was the engine overheated? If not, the sensor is most likely faulty. (NOTE: this is not the temperature sending unit that activates the gauge)

The code 121 indicates that the Throttle position sensor was out of the expected voltage range (high or low). The TPS range is usually about .3 volts at closed throttle and 4.7 volts at wide open throttle. Higher or lower voltage than 0 to 5 volts is usually a bad sensor. Disconnect, check for corrosion and/or bent or missing pins, correct any corrosion or other problems, and reconnect the suspect sensors. Clear the codes and see if the codes return. If the codes return the sensors should be replaced.

The 411, 538, 536, and 632, can be ignored for now. Fix your other problems first. rangerj

 

[curiegas]

Thanks for the information, Rangerj. The car never overheated. The range was usually between the O and R. The smoke was white.

I was trying to get the car to a repair shop to check the DIS, CPS, and coil, but it died and now it won't start at all.

The tach was fluctuating between 500-1500 during idle and driving.

Another piece of information that might be useful, I had an oil leak from the cam seals which was fixed along with the cats.

Also if anyone has the part numbers for the Cam position sensor, crank position sensor, and the DIS module I would really appreciate it. Just getting ready for when the diagnosis is made so I can see how much I am going to spend.

Thanks,
Cecilia

 

[rangerj]

Cecilia,

Do a search for the post regarding the tests of the DIS (Distributorless Ignition System). Then search for the throttle position sensor tests.

Note that the 4 small mounting screws for the DIS are its "ground" to the intake crossover. The bolts through the crossover to the heads are also "grounds". You should also search for the replacement procedures for the crankshaft position sensor and note that it is set at .030.

Print out the procedures for your mechanic. I take it from your post that you are not going to do the work yourself, so have the information handy for your mechanic. Unless he/she is familiar with the SHO the information will be very helpful.

Was the white smoke thick white smoke or thin whispy white smoke? If you had an oil leak and it got onto your hot exaust it would explain the thick white smoke. An anti-freeze leak onto the exaust would cause a thinner whispier white smoke.

Also note that the first step in diagnosing sensor problems is to check the connections for corrosion, broken or shorted wires, bent or pulled out pins or spade connectors. If the connection is solid and clean then you proceed with the electronic tests.

The price of the sensors you asked about is not the costly thing, it is the labor if you have the work done. I think the CPS is about $40, the CID about $20, and the DIS module about $125. Do NOT just replace the DIS module without testing the DIS system. These modules rarely fail. If you do replace the DIS module remember it has to be coated with a "heat sink" grease where it sets against the intake crossover tube.

Hope this helps. Let us know is you need more information. rangerj

 

[SHOZ123]

Actually the two bottom screws are the DIS ground. But it is important to have good contact with the intake for cooling purposes.

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/173281/original/DIS 1 93.gif