Codes 211 and 219

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MOSHO92

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Today on the drive home the engine surged and lost major acceleration power. This was accompanied by a weird throaty sound and (sadly cause we know what this means) a screwy tach. The 211 code is typical of the CPS, however i replaced that (along with the water pump) under 20K miles ago. The 219 means the SPOUT circuit defaulted to 10 degrees.....WTF does this mean.
Last thing that might help. I JUST replaced my O2 sensors and experienced a loss, yes a decrease, in gas mileage. Somebody please tell me what the **** is going on.
 

BlackOnBlackATX

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ok, the 219 is also called the SAW circuit, and all i know is its ignition related, sorry i cant help more. the PIP code i have gotten from having an ungrounded DIS. the PIP and the CPS are the same deal. check your crossover tube bolts and the intake ground strap. let us know what happens.
 

Mr Anonymous

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Verify the integrity of the entire electronic ignition system, including the all-important ground path from the DIS to the intake to the firewall. It sounds to me as if it is probably a wiring problem.
 

sdpatt

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In addition to the information above, with the engine idling, wiggle the connectors on the DIS module. If you create an engine stumble with this test, there is a continuity problem in the plug's connection. Clean those contacts and maybe use a rubber band to keep the connectors tightly attached to the DIS module. Have you washed yuor engine lately?
 

MOSHO92

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Well, i wiggled everything and couldnt MAKE the engine do it. Further driving tests revealed that it gets real bad under heavy throttle and especially between 3 and 4.5 K rpm. Lastly when under heavy acceleration, it sounds as if the secondaries open about 300rpm early and are off and on untill 4200rpm. Like they cant really decide wheather to go on or not. Any other ideas. (and no i havent washed my engine bay nor has it rained.) Thanks.
 

MOSHO92

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SHOooo:
Verify the integrity of the entire electronic ignition system, including the all-important ground path from the DIS to the intake to the firewall. It sounds to me as if it is probably a wiring problem.
How would one go about "verifing" the ignition system.
 

Mr Anonymous

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MOSHO92:
How would one go about "verifing" the ignition system.
Check the wiring to each ignition component to ensure they are properly connected and that there are no defects in the wiring or harnesses going to them: The coil pack, plug wires, DIS module, CID and CPS connections (it's possible you might have disturbed the CPS connection when you replaced the front O2). Also make sure both SPOUT shunts are intact (one is between the EEC test connector and the CID sensor and the other is below the coil pack). You should also check the vacuum connections to the secondaries as well as the electrical connection to the IMRC on the back of the intake.
 

MOSHO92

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I Thought it might be fuel related so i replaced the fuel filter. No dice. I also noticed a little puddle of green stuff below the engine on the accesory side. I replaced the damn water pump about 20k miles ago, but i guess there is no law that says new (reman) things cant break.

There is only one reason that makes me suspect it isnt the CPS. Iv'e had the CPS fail on me before and it acted nothing like this. Before, the engine would just die and then not start for 20 minutes. Now, i have less power, jerky acceleration, and a freaky tachometer. Oh and by the way, I also replaced the CID not too long ago.

So guys if anyone has any advise i would love to hear it.
 

Mr Anonymous

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MOSHO92:
So guys if anyone has any advise i would love to hear it.
Multiple simultaneous ignition system codes are usually indicative of a wiring or ground issue more than an individual component issue.

If you are indeed leaking coolant from the H2O pump, it could very well explain the CPS code. It is not unheard of for CPS's to fail with low mileage.

You need to take a logical step-by-step approach to diagnosing your problem to eliminate possible causes until the root cause is found.
 

MOSHO92

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Thanks man. I think you're right about it being electrical. I got in the car and (with the keys off) the dome lights were pulsating. Maybe my car has demons.

First step for me, coat all the grounding wires for the DIS with di-electrical grease and move from there.
 

MOSHO92

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Ok after checking all the elec. connections the problem is still there. Here is a new bit of info. A loud ticking noise is comming from the low accesory side of the engine.
Could the crank actually be rubbing on the CPS?
I'm really stuck here, the only codes are still the 211 and 219 (the 219 has been around for a year now so i dont think it is related).
 

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