Code re-hash, more thorough than before.

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

MusPuppis

New Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
25
Reaction score
0
Location
Kentucky
Sorry for making a new post, but I felt this warranted a new one instead of a continuation of the old.

Ok, updated codes folks. Sorry for it being so long, just trying to be thorough.

I cleaned the MAF and it helped ALOT. My dead power above 4k is completely fixed and my WOT issue is gone.

Also managed to run about a full tank of gas out of the car these last few days. I think I'm around 270miles on the odo since I filled it up (it was sitting on empty and I topped it off) and I have about 1/8th of a tank left and the car has seen more than a few WOT runs.. I ran a Mustang GT and lost (but not by much.. I was impressed atleast) a Fleetwood w. the LT1 (faster than you'd think, mid 15's I *think*) and just for ***** and giggles a little '00 Cav Z24. The Cav got shat on.. Bleh, regardless, how is the mileage stacking up to what you all are seeing? I'll top it back off and figure out my exact mileage when I can, but I cant afford to fill it up again right now and do the calculations, heh.

I checked the plug wells and they look fine. I got in contact with the previous owner actually and the car had a tune-up, minus plug wires (I'll be replacing these asap) before it went to the dealer.

I reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and upon reconnection and first start-up I went through the idle learning process. The car actually idled decently - about 900 until I started driving it.. It went downhill from there, lol.

Anyway, I gave it some time to warm up, then took it out for a drive. Normal driving until it was completely up to temp then I went through a quick 1-3 WOT run. I also cycled accesories on an off as I drove to load the electrical system and put accessory loads on the engine.

CE light popped on about 2 minutes after pulling out in normal driving conditions. Tach stayed steady and correct for a few miles but it went loopy on me like it always does. It seems to decide when its gonna do it, cause I cant seem to force it. It just starts to get jumpy whenever it feels like it. I think it might be linked to engine temp though, seems to happen most often when the engine warms up a tad.

I got the car home and pulled my codes, 4 times, to be totally sure I wasnt screwing up the process somehow.

I pulled the ISC off, its the cylinder with the fantastically annoying allen bolt on the passenger side of the throttle body correct? I cleaned it with carb cleaner and pulled the little selnoid off and hooked it to a 9v battery (that I confirmed with my volt meter had voltage) and nothing happened. No click, movement or sound. Dead I think. Did I do something wrong in the test though? All signs are pointing to failure really, high idle, slow to de-rev, odd idle, and codes. I just hate throwing money at problems. Partly cause I hate to waste, but mostly cause I dont have the money to throw, lol.

Heres what I got;

KOEO

114 (O,R) IAT sensor out of range - IAT

212 (M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault - Ignition Systems ** this one is annoying. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this?

KOER

411 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) - ISC

412 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC ** these two are leading me to beleive the ISC is dead.

159 (O,R) MAF sensor is/was out of range - MAF ** Odd because it wasnt throwing this one before I cleaned the MAF (In white vinegar for about 6-8 hours overnight and a light spritz with carb cleaner). The car runs ALOT better since I cleaned it, but now I'm getting this code? Maybe I damaged it somehow while I was cleaning it? Would the MAF from an 89 Mustang work? I happen to have one in excellent shape and looks identicle..

121 (O,R,M) Throttle Position (TP) sensor out of range - TPS ** Still dunno. Possibly dead? I can order one through Advanced and just take it back if it doesnt alleviate the code.. Friend works there.


Anyway, sorry for the flood of posts from me, but I'm just trying to get this worked out and get this car running as well as humanly possible. The car, even with its couple little problems runs and drives EXTREMELY well but its only gonna get better. I think theres more power to be found, some more gas mileage and some more driveability hiding somewhere in it. New fuel filter is getting put on today.

I spent about 4 hours detailing the interior, put my CD player in (pretty damn good stock sound..) and will wash and wax it whenever the weather clears enough for the finish to last more than 3 hours.. I'll toss some pics up then.

Also, kinda an off-hand thought.. Does anyone know if you can order the engine stickers on the plate that covers the radiatior? The belt/vac routing and the other two? Mine were town up and in awful shape so I spent some time removing them, but I'd really like to get a new set.
 

AREA 91

PA SHO SHOP
Joined
Jul 17, 2002
Messages
5,349
Reaction score
1,003
Location
Area 91
I have seen the engine sticker in W Bay before, but not for some time.

I think cleaning your MAF with carb cleaner was a bad idea. I only use electrical contact cleaner for this.

I'm sure someone more experienced will chime in on your problem.
sdpatt,etc...
 

Baddflash

New Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2006
Messages
14
Reaction score
1
Location
Edmonton, Alberta
I'm thinking possibly the DIS, typical of Fords but I'm new to the SHO's.

I don't believe using that MAF would be a go idea, the fuel curves won't be correct and it may lean out the mixture.
Not sure about using vinegar on the MAF especially for that long, that may have damaged the sensor.

The car would be undriveable if the TPS was dead, but from what I'm told and seen they are very sensitive. There is play in how they mount which can affect it's accuracy, loosen the screws off and you'll see what I mean.

just my 2cents.
 

MusPuppis

New Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
25
Reaction score
0
Location
Kentucky
Didnt have time to reply until now, sorry.

IAC has been cleaned and reinstalled.. No good, still getting the code. Will be replaced ASAP. I have a new (to me, heh) TPS I'm gonna install and will start calling around to get prices on a new/JY DIS unit.

Anyone live around Lexington or Somerset Ky wanna swap my bad one for your good one to see if its the problem? lol.
 

MusPuppis

New Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
25
Reaction score
0
Location
Kentucky
Didnt have time to reply until now, sorry.

IAC has been cleaned and reinstalled.. No good, still getting the code. Will be replaced ASAP. I have a new (to me, heh) TPS I'm gonna install and will start calling around to get prices on a new/JY DIS unit. I went ahead and got new plugs, wires (AC Delco's, heh) and a valve cover gasket set as well.

Anyone live around Lexington or Somerset Ky wanna swap my bad one for your good one to see if its the problem? lol.

Thanks for the help folks, much appreciated. Hopefully the weeks to come (waiting on FA money) will have the SHO out and kicking ass. Not that its not now, but I think it has a little oomph hiding still.
 

MusPuppis

New Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
25
Reaction score
0
Location
Kentucky
Har har.

I hate reviving old threads, but I just wanted to thank everyone who gave me input and helped me figure this mess out.

I pulled the codes on the SHO today and ALL I got was the 411 code. I havent had the money to replace the ISC yet.. Once its replaced I should be code free, lol.

Turns out the DIS code was due (as near as I can tell) to a dirty or loose connector at the DIS or the coil pack, because after I re-installed the intake and hooked it and the coil pack back up it stopped popping up.. I've put quite a few miles (hard, angry miles) on it and the code has gone. I'm still buying a new one from a member here 'cause I promised I would, lol.. but turns out mine is fine. IAC was fixed after a second cleaning cleaning with electronics cleaner and q-tips. 412 seems to have gone away.. The ISC has given up idleing low and now settled in to an obnoxious surge and high idle routine - go figure. The TPS I replaced with a J/Y unit and it seems to have done the job..

All in all the car is running extremely well now, thanks to your-alls help. I'm getting respectable gas mileage (300-ish on a full tank, mixed driving) and as I learn to launch the car I'm reeling in those 15.2 times. Still pulling 15.4-5's, but I'm getting better :biggrin:

So far I've replaced:

Plugs
Wires
Battery
Terminals
Valve Cover Gaskets
TPS
All Intake Gaskets.
Assorted Fluids.

Still to needing to replace:

ISC
Front Driver and Rear Driver Side Rotors (I want to do the 96 upgrade but I doubt I'll have the money for a while.. I need to be safe, lol)
Tie Rods (all, heh)
Motor Mounts
 
Back
Top