Code 14 back again! With code 19

[masho95]

Ok here's the deal JUST changed the CKP, timing belt, and front main seal like two days ago. The car ran fine for like 10 minutes and then starting bucking again. So I pulled the codes again. KOEO 85 code is still there (haven't replaced the CANP solenoid yet) and in the stored mode I got a 14 and 19 codes. I got a replacement for the 19 code (CMP sensor) but went to change it yesterday and the bolts aren't 5.5mm like they are supposed to be. Put a 5mm on them and it's still a little loose. Figuring the bolts rusted a little and now there isn't much to get them out with. Anyways I'm going to have to find a way to get that out. But about the 14 code, the sensor is brand new and properly gapped. Is it possible there is a continuous electrical failure loosing power to the sensor that would cause it to keep coming up like that? Any ideas?

 

[SHOlove]

Sounds like the 14 and 19 are stored in the memory. Clear the memory by removing the connection to from the self test input while running the KOEO test. Then check your codes again.

 

[sdpatt]

With both of those codes showing up, I would suspect a common failure point rather than sensor problems. Check the connectors and ground path to the DIS module. Are those 12mm bolts tight on the intake balance tube?

 

[masho95]

sdpatt:
With both of those codes showing up, I would suspect a common failure point rather than sensor problems. Check the connectors and ground path to the DIS module. Are those 12mm bolts tight on the intake balance tube?

The 12mm bolts to the intake are tight and the spots on the crossover tube were just cleaned the other day to ensure a good ground. I'm guessing along with you Scott there is a common problem but I'm not sure where to start. Disconnected the DIS and reconnected it, and the connection seems to be solid. I'm starting to think it's a electrical/battery problem. The negative battery clamp is cracked (but the problem occurred before it cracked). The car wouldn't start the other day until I jumped the solenoid on the fender well. And when I went to cross the solenoid connectors I could see the positive battery terminal smoke. What would that indicate?? I'm kinda lost when it comes to electrical stuff. Thanks

 

[projectSHO89]

If you let the magic smoke out of electrical connectors, cable, and components, the magic won't work anymore. Neither will the part.

That smoke indicates a poor or high resistance connection that needs to be fixed. It might involve replacing the connector or perhaps just a cleaning or tightening. Worst case is a new cable.

It's certainly possible that the cable connections are contributing to your stored codes. On the other hand, the bad connections will keep your car from starting and will likely strand you somewhere you don't want to be. I would fix them first and then see about the codes.

Steve

 

[masho95]

Thanks for the ideas and I think we finally nailed the problem this evening. My friend was stuck again and we he finally got it started he got it back home and I took a closer look at it, based on the previous suggestions from a recent search and such. Starting changing out the battery cable clamps and noticed on the positive side that the small positive wire (to PCM) had some weird bulge and electrical tape around it. Off came the tape and you guessed it a splice, or I guess what you might try to call a splice. So I gave a small yank on the wire to get a little working room, and snap. The wire broke farther down towards the main harness. Looks like there was another splice farther down and the one at the main harness was bad. I don't know if it was a stock connector at the base of the wiring harness but there was two yellow wires together into one blade type connector (looked original). So we replaced the wire from that point to the battery and eliminated two other splices! oh_my So now we just need to give it some time and see what happens with the new positive wire and battery cable clamps. Thanks for the help.

 

[JaySHOguy]

I hope you eliminated two "splices" and not two "fusible links".... A fusible link somewhat resembles a wire splice to me.

Good luck.

 

[masho95]

No they definitely weren't fuseable links, at least one of them wasn't. They were inches apart and one of them was horribly spliced. The other looked spliced and had something like heat shrink around it.